Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just wondering if anyone has ever tried to use the dash display that shows boost pressure, oil temps, injector percentages etc etc in another car? Do they rely on the standard R34 gtr ecu or are they a standalone device that could be connected up to another car?

Any idea how much one might cost secondhand to play with and who would have one?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/151418-r34-gtr-dash-display/
Share on other sites

Standalone, costs about $800 - $1200. Depending on the version. You can wire it into any car. It fits straight into a R34 GTT but custom wiring is required.

I can probably get you one if your keen send me a PM.

So the MFD actually fits straight in to where the 3 gauges are on the GTT? No modifications needed? So meaning after the install it will basically look as if it was meant to be there? :laugh:

You will also need to buy the MFD cover or customer made one, at the end there will be some cutting involved unless you mount it at the radio din

http://www.geocities.jp/arthur2776/stagea.html

in stage 6 he installed a MFD to the stagea

Edited by Maxx
You will also need to buy the MFD cover or customer made one, at the end there will be some cutting involved unless you mount it at the radio din

http://www.geocities.jp/arthur2776/stagea.html

in stage 6 he installed a MFD to the stagea

For an R34 no cutting is required. Usually second hand MFD's come with the cover.

For other models obviously some cutting will be required to mount it on top of the dash.

Here's one installed in an R33 GTSt.

post-4070-1168596210.jpg

wow! on the gtst how did the guy managed to make it look that way? is it remolded into the dash? also next to the speed tacho is that a reflection on the glass or camera or something? I do remember Nismo created a different style of dash with a square in the middle but never got to see the dash turned on to see what the big square was for??

awesome work on the placement of the r34GTR screen

Here is the FAST illustration for the R34 dash. As you can see, the GTR MFD is just a direct fit replacement to the 3 guage cluster on the R34.

Thx Sewid, thts exactly what I wanted to know. These genuine MFDs are going for around 70,000yen on yahoo auctions..with the casing as well...

34 GTR display info inc swapping to non GTR dash.

Here's a good guide for transplanting the MFD into an ER34.

http://flatout.main.jp/driving/parts/bnr34mfd

Here's an excellent guide for transplanting the MFD into an R33

http://www.geocities.jp/yossyi_bcnr33_carbon/inpure/MFD.html

An AV cord to output TV onto the MFD (Clarion part #:855-5430-00)

http://pub.ne.jp/BNR34/?entry_id=89518

MFD pinouts

http://f14.aaa.livedoor.jp/~lindwurm/bnr34/diy/mfd/mfd.htm

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok i will get those 310mm. I found one but on a different site. This is the description on those...is it ok? Technical parameters: - Axle: front. - Disc type: ventilated. - Number of holes: 5. - Disc diameter: 310mm. - Total height with center: 54mm. - Thickness (new/min.): 30/28mm. - Designed for brake calipers manufacturer: Sumitomo.
    • You Gregged a whole racetrack!?
    • Look for broken wire or bad connector at the motor. Might not be it, but is worth starting there, as it is easy.
    • Hi everyone, I’m having an issue with my R32 GT-R. Sometimes, when the car goes over a bump or experiences some vibration, the 4WD warning light comes on the dashboard. When I check the code from the control unit in the trunk, it shows Code 19 – ETS Motor. However, everything seems to be working fine — if I turn off the engine and restart the car, the light goes away and everything functions normally. Has anyone experienced this before? Where should I start troubleshooting this issue? Thanks in advance!
    • I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
×
×
  • Create New...