Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I've been told it will make a MASSIVE difference, and am about to sound-deaden my doors and install new splits. Have also seen some sort of sound-deadening sheeting, looks like a foam, which i think is meant to go behind the speaker.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/151480-sound-deadening/#findComment-2818594
Share on other sites

I've been told it will make a MASSIVE difference, and am about to sound-deaden my doors and install new splits. Have also seen some sort of sound-deadening sheeting, looks like a foam, which i think is meant to go behind the speaker.

I believe you are referring to a diffuser mat.

aah00n if you want your car to sound good, get the deadening. Doesn't even have to be the whole door - I only had the forward half of my doors deadened and it made a significant improvement.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/151480-sound-deadening/#findComment-2818603
Share on other sites

now I've started something :laugh:

it makes a huge difference. camera isnt here but I'll show you a 33 door (beofre and after) when I find my camera.

the whole idea is to make the door as acoustically dead as possible (there is a LOT of tech to this but that is the gist of it,.) so you have almost zero refelctions and cancelation.

the foam stops the reflections the sound deadening stops the panels from moving by adding weight. the result is better sound and a quieter car when the music is off.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/151480-sound-deadening/#findComment-2818607
Share on other sites

Dont forget to add, that deadening the inner skin, separates the back speaker movement sound waves from the front there fore eliminating mid cancellation, and improving midbass ten fold :laugh:.

The Dynaxorb diffuser mats have specific ridges which disperse the backwaves and stop them from bouncing back onto the speaker cone, therefore improving power handling and less distortion.

George

Adelaide Pro Sound

Edited by Adelaideprosound
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/151480-sound-deadening/#findComment-2819070
Share on other sites

  • 7 months later...

Old post, see if someone notices it...

If I get my doors deadened, and the diffuser mat placed in, then change my door speakers later does the diffuser mat have to removed/reglued etc?

Does it connect to the speaker, or just go straight onto the door, moulded to the speaker depth etc?

Thanks...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/151480-sound-deadening/#findComment-3292466
Share on other sites

yeah man as above fully worth it

Get some dynamat extreme or b-quiet

then put a layer behind where the speaker sits, then rip off the factory plastic, get all th sticky stuff off with meths

then cover the whole door, all the wholes, cut out the part where the speaker will go(cut it in triangles from the inside of the circle, so not just cutting round it, so make about 10 cuts from the centre to the outer diameter of the speaker

You'll be left with triangle strips, leave those in, put the speaker in and you'll really really notice the different :(

I'll try get pics too

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/151480-sound-deadening/#findComment-3292721
Share on other sites

Here are some pics of mine. I used mostly Bostik, but will be striping this back and using all Dynamat Extreme in the near future. SDing your ride will make a significant difference, I did the boot when it was striped out and it made a huge difference to quietening the exhaust.

10.jpg

04.jpg

05.jpg

And this is the FG weather/water shield I made to protect the speaker. It's covered in DME.

09.jpg

So you can see the inner and outer skins are done, I went so far as to wrap the side intrusion beams! The bostik is very easy to work with, you just heat up the panels (they are 500mmx500mm) and the become soft and easy to mould to panels. Similar to DM, you just peel backing of to expose a sticky side.

Hope this helps, and sorry about the phone pics, I didn't have a digi cam when I did the SDing.

Edited by rocketboy
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/151480-sound-deadening/#findComment-3295017
Share on other sites

Just did my parcel shelf today with Dynamat, all the rattles and squeaks are gone :laugh:, One wedge pack managed to do most of it, i didnt cover every single part of the shelf, but will when i get some more Dynamat. There was some left over but im about to tackle my front doors, so i dont want to run out and the odd shapes might come in handy. Should of taken a pic, will post it up when i move my splits to the rear and put my new ones in the front.

cheers

Evil

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/151480-sound-deadening/#findComment-3297199
Share on other sites

I did my doors a while ago now and it is great. It dropped out a fair bit of cabin noise and I have only done the doors. I probably went a little overboard but oh well. I want to do pieces of my rear parcel shelf and a bit on the inside of some of the flatter panels of the car at the rear.

Pics of what I did with my doors

post-13456-1187610154_thumb.jpg

post-13456-1187610204_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/151480-sound-deadening/#findComment-3299347
Share on other sites

I've had it all done too. Acess holes filled in with aluminium sheet, then that covered with dynamat. Those pads behind the speakers. Then the foam on the door cards as well to stop them rattleing, and to kill a bit more noise.

To say the least it made a HUGE difference. Mid bass was increased, road noise was reduced. The doors now also make that nice thud noise when they close. Which is just a perk I guess.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/151480-sound-deadening/#findComment-3316911
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Look, realistically, those are some fairly chunky connectors and wires so it is a reasonably fair bet that that loom was involved in the redirection of the fuel pump and/or ECU/ignition power for the immobiliser. It's also fair to be that the new immobiliser is essentially the same thing as the old one, and so it probably needs the same stuff done to make it do what it has to do. Given that you are talking about a car that no-one else here is familiar with (I mean your exact car) and an alarm that I've never heard of before and so probably not many others are familiar with, and that some wire monkey has been messing with it out of our sight, it seems reasonable that the wire monkey should be fixing this.
    • Wheel alignment immediately. Not "when I get around to it". And further to what Duncan said - you cannot just put camber arms on and shorten them. You will introduce bump steer far in excess of what the car had with stock arms. You need adjustable tension arms and they need to be shortened also. The simplest approach is to shorten them the same % as the stock ones. This will not be correct or optimal, but it will be better than any other guess. The correct way to set the lengths of both arms is to use a properly built/set up bump steer gauge and trial and error the adjustments until you hit the camber you need and want and have minimum bump steer in the range of motion that the wheel is expected to travel. And what Duncan said about toe is also very true. And you cannot change the camber arm without also affecting toe. So when you have adjustable arms on the back of a Skyline, the car either needs to go to a talented wheel aligner (not your local tyre shop dropout), or you need to be able to do this stuff yourself at home. Guess which approach I have taken? I have built my own gear for camber, toe and bump steer measurement and I do all this on the flattest bit of concrete I have, with some shims under the tyres on one side to level the car.
    • Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
×
×
  • Create New...