Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I've been told it will make a MASSIVE difference, and am about to sound-deaden my doors and install new splits. Have also seen some sort of sound-deadening sheeting, looks like a foam, which i think is meant to go behind the speaker.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/151480-sound-deadening/#findComment-2818594
Share on other sites

I've been told it will make a MASSIVE difference, and am about to sound-deaden my doors and install new splits. Have also seen some sort of sound-deadening sheeting, looks like a foam, which i think is meant to go behind the speaker.

I believe you are referring to a diffuser mat.

aah00n if you want your car to sound good, get the deadening. Doesn't even have to be the whole door - I only had the forward half of my doors deadened and it made a significant improvement.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/151480-sound-deadening/#findComment-2818603
Share on other sites

now I've started something :laugh:

it makes a huge difference. camera isnt here but I'll show you a 33 door (beofre and after) when I find my camera.

the whole idea is to make the door as acoustically dead as possible (there is a LOT of tech to this but that is the gist of it,.) so you have almost zero refelctions and cancelation.

the foam stops the reflections the sound deadening stops the panels from moving by adding weight. the result is better sound and a quieter car when the music is off.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/151480-sound-deadening/#findComment-2818607
Share on other sites

Dont forget to add, that deadening the inner skin, separates the back speaker movement sound waves from the front there fore eliminating mid cancellation, and improving midbass ten fold :laugh:.

The Dynaxorb diffuser mats have specific ridges which disperse the backwaves and stop them from bouncing back onto the speaker cone, therefore improving power handling and less distortion.

George

Adelaide Pro Sound

Edited by Adelaideprosound
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/151480-sound-deadening/#findComment-2819070
Share on other sites

  • 7 months later...

Old post, see if someone notices it...

If I get my doors deadened, and the diffuser mat placed in, then change my door speakers later does the diffuser mat have to removed/reglued etc?

Does it connect to the speaker, or just go straight onto the door, moulded to the speaker depth etc?

Thanks...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/151480-sound-deadening/#findComment-3292466
Share on other sites

yeah man as above fully worth it

Get some dynamat extreme or b-quiet

then put a layer behind where the speaker sits, then rip off the factory plastic, get all th sticky stuff off with meths

then cover the whole door, all the wholes, cut out the part where the speaker will go(cut it in triangles from the inside of the circle, so not just cutting round it, so make about 10 cuts from the centre to the outer diameter of the speaker

You'll be left with triangle strips, leave those in, put the speaker in and you'll really really notice the different :(

I'll try get pics too

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/151480-sound-deadening/#findComment-3292721
Share on other sites

Here are some pics of mine. I used mostly Bostik, but will be striping this back and using all Dynamat Extreme in the near future. SDing your ride will make a significant difference, I did the boot when it was striped out and it made a huge difference to quietening the exhaust.

10.jpg

04.jpg

05.jpg

And this is the FG weather/water shield I made to protect the speaker. It's covered in DME.

09.jpg

So you can see the inner and outer skins are done, I went so far as to wrap the side intrusion beams! The bostik is very easy to work with, you just heat up the panels (they are 500mmx500mm) and the become soft and easy to mould to panels. Similar to DM, you just peel backing of to expose a sticky side.

Hope this helps, and sorry about the phone pics, I didn't have a digi cam when I did the SDing.

Edited by rocketboy
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/151480-sound-deadening/#findComment-3295017
Share on other sites

Just did my parcel shelf today with Dynamat, all the rattles and squeaks are gone :laugh:, One wedge pack managed to do most of it, i didnt cover every single part of the shelf, but will when i get some more Dynamat. There was some left over but im about to tackle my front doors, so i dont want to run out and the odd shapes might come in handy. Should of taken a pic, will post it up when i move my splits to the rear and put my new ones in the front.

cheers

Evil

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/151480-sound-deadening/#findComment-3297199
Share on other sites

I did my doors a while ago now and it is great. It dropped out a fair bit of cabin noise and I have only done the doors. I probably went a little overboard but oh well. I want to do pieces of my rear parcel shelf and a bit on the inside of some of the flatter panels of the car at the rear.

Pics of what I did with my doors

post-13456-1187610154_thumb.jpg

post-13456-1187610204_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/151480-sound-deadening/#findComment-3299347
Share on other sites

I've had it all done too. Acess holes filled in with aluminium sheet, then that covered with dynamat. Those pads behind the speakers. Then the foam on the door cards as well to stop them rattleing, and to kill a bit more noise.

To say the least it made a HUGE difference. Mid bass was increased, road noise was reduced. The doors now also make that nice thud noise when they close. Which is just a perk I guess.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/151480-sound-deadening/#findComment-3316911
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Haha, i kow right? Could have bought so many cars for the same amount of money (or less) but driving Unicorn gives you at least +1mln to style 😅. Like wise man said "life's to short to drink cheap wine and drive boring cars" 😉
    • Newbie here, proud owner of an Autech 260RS. I'm on the hunt for wiring diagrams specific to the 260RS, particularly S1. I've ran my eyes through R33, R34 Diagrams, there are some similarities, however continue to find incorrect wire colours and pins on connectors in the 33,34 diagrams.   I was hoping someone could point me in the right direction? I'd be happy to pay for the originals in Japanese. I can translate them, at least they would be accurate.   Any help please would be greatly appreciated, never heard an RB26DETT before let alone driven one, and I've got a spaghetti monster of goodness to sort out.   Cheers Benny  
    • Hey all  im wondering if you can help me please I have put a rb20 box in my r34 gtt as my auto packed up and a friend had a spare box I know it’s not ideal but it will get me up and running for now. we have done the conversation and everything is working great but my Speedo we got a s13 speed sensor but my Speedo reads double now and I bought a speed converter but still not having any luck.  so I thought I’ll reach out and pick your brains  any help would be appreciated please as I wanna drive my car again 
    • Drain it. I got official Matic D but you can get whatever is listed as Matic D compatible.
    • Thanks guys,  Yeah I should at least have them dynoed, at least then I know what I've got as a starting point.  The springs on these are hard as rocks. I vaguely remember Russman saying he was going to sell the shocks to me with the rocks fitted, as he was keeping the softer springs for his new setup.  I didn't click at the time but of course that was to let me know the shock/spring wouldn't be matched.  I also remember pricing up new springs around 2014-15, but, house, money etc. it never happened. So that was another reason to have them rebuilt. I have rebuilt the forks on many motorcycles so I think I could handle the seals on these easily enough, but getting the valving right would be a rabbit hole I cbf exploring.  Duncan, interesting to hear RP was tuning these back then. I might give them a call.  In the mean time I have been busy fitting sway bars. The Whiteline rear sway bar I purchased 15 years ago finally got fitted, along with the Whiteline front bar that showed up last week. Just waiting on new links for the front sway bar to finish that off.  And my spare set of advan AVS VS5's should be back from the powder coaters in a Pearl White finish sometime this week, with a set of Hankook RS4's lined up for fitting.  And then I just have all the suspension bushes to do. A comprehensive kit is on the way... Lots to do before the Ararat hill climb. Cheers guys 🍻   
×
×
  • Create New...