Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok, Im in the process of fitting my diff atm after changing a few bits internal. Because this being my first shot at it im not sure if its %100.

Whilst bolting the shafts on. i noticed the r/h shaft has about 1/2cm free play?. in/out.

i can slam it back in, but it pops back out easily.

what have i missed?.

Something to do with that circlip inside the diff?

It looked pretty simple, push in and lock. or was there more to it?.

Edited by E_Lu-SHuN
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/152356-urgent-diff-help/
Share on other sites

ok after hours bending and bangin the circlip.

there isnt much i can think of. I never did an apprentice, so all of this is new learning steps for me. Now i need advice from someone who knows their shit. it still slides back off that half centermetre, with no stable lock.

anyone?

No i dont mean the actual shafts moving.

This is the inner shaft that slides through driectly into the centre gears.

once it pops out it starts to leak.

i'll attatch photo's when i get the chance to.

atm im just gonna replace circlip and seals, ansee what happens.. Still need to know if there is a way of piecing it together so it'll lack in place.

Thanks

Edited by E_Lu-SHuN

You mean the inner shafts where the drive shaft bolts onto?.

I tried only to find out it was a different size. Now im using the oringinal shatfs that came out of it but i cant seem to get that one side back in and locked in.

attached is a picture that i stole from another thread, circled in red is the part i mean.

It doesnt seem to lock in place securely enough for it not to pop right back out whilst driving.

anyone?. Its driving me nuts. I calleup a driveshaft's specialists for info and advice.. and he just simply said he couldnt help me with skyline lsd diff's.

post-8491-1169281904.jpg

Edited by E_Lu-SHuN
Step 8:

Do everything in reverse, make sure you listen to Metallica again!

**VERY IMPORTANT NOTE:**

before you screw the diff center back together after inserting shim, take the 'longer' of the 2 stub axles and insert it through the center of the diff all the way. This splines the 2 different splined parts of the diff center together so that when you go to insert the diff stubs at the end they'll actually fit (easiest way to explain it). Otherwise you'll be screamin' your head off wondering what you did wrong.

http://www.d1nz.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=...66fa763d69e3e58

Hope that helps

Ok Here's the complete extended version.

To start off, i was to replace the standard auto diff with an r33 manual one. for some reason whatsoever i didnt pay attention or question, i was told i wouldnt be able to do the straight swaparoo, instead i could just change the internals over and keep the housing.

I thought that reason was that the diff's were different and couldnt line up the bolts. So i did. Half way there, center's out i found it difficult to take off the tail shaft gear wheel being i had no vice grip or air/power tools.

So tried seeing if the r33 would bolt on and it did. Begining was a total waste of time.

Took off the ABS sensor gears of each inner shafts of the auto one and jammed it onto the manual one. (do r33's have there's there?)

Now back to re-assembling the r33 diff. Only thing changed is that add-on ABS sensor gears on outer side of each half shaft.

done. Now im just about to give up and take it to a mechanic's or specialist for them to get it in and hopefully not charge.

Times running out. Does anyone know?.

the right side slides in and out about 5mm.

Is that normal? or is that going to leak or pop right out under pressure cornering and shiz.

Thanks

Im sure everything is re-assembled 100percent correct, side shafts ,spacers to every single nut ect.. the clips may be the issue your rite.

One thing i realised. even with that half centremeter movment from the right shaft i think i may still get away with it so im goign to just wake it on and find out.

Or is there someone out there that can tell me thats normal?.

and i can drive at ease.

tahnks for all replies.

  • 3 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...