Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys, just thought i would post up one of the most helpful tips when installing a Just Jap or Hybrid or similar FMIC. One ommision from these kits is the nipple for the boost controller which is actually just amazing. anyway...

Some poeple believe you can take a feed off something else such as the blow off valve or something after the throttle body. this is not correct. GFB state this in bold in their Atomic boost controller install instructions and i have scoured other boost controller instructions and they all take a pressure feed from before the throttle body.

so to have this available i have used the pipe work that you would normally take out for this intercooler upgrade.

there are two stock pipes that run down throught the metal work of the car to the stock intercooler location. one you would norammly keep which runs from the turbo to the intercooler. the other is normally upgraded with the chrome piping comming from the other side of the engine bay.

if you chop this discarded pipe about 2 thrids of the way down, you can use it to replace the stock pipe that is still in place. you will then have a nipple available to feed your boost controller.

i will post picks of what i have done, but i am much happier i have finnally got the pressure feed correct.

peace out people...

any questions just ask...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/152593-r33-fmic-installation-tips/
Share on other sites

i just drill a hole in the pipe and tap a thread and screw in a nipple easy simple and quick

Hey mate,

Where do i go and what od i ask for to get everything i need to do this?

Also does it have any problmes leaking boost at high levels?

Cheers

  • 8 months later...
  • 2 weeks later...

What the wall thickness of the stock pipes? I dont think the JJ kits Aluminium piping is very thick. It would be nice to have about 2mm of wall thickness to tap into. You can do the pipe just coming out of the turbo (stock pipe) or the one oafter the intercooler.

If you have a pressure drop across your cooler you may get different boost levels depending where you position it.

  • 4 months later...
  • 3 weeks later...

im in the middle of installing my just jap front mount, and i just drilled a hole, made sum threads and screwed in a nipple - easy.

one problem i am having is the front indicator/parking lights dont go all the way bak into there position because the bak hits the front mount. :|

oh and the little pipe that you have to drill and connect the boost hose too looks abit wonked and its pissing me off abit, doesnt look all straight

any help guys?

ps i havent trimmed the fan blades

  • 2 months later...
  • 1 month later...
AVC-R states after the throttle???

Dudes,

A boost GAUGE would be connected after the throttle body. IE, the inlet manifold.

A boost CONTROLLER/wastegate would be connected before the throttle body.

A controller needs to open the wastegate to adjust the boost, so when you take your foot off the throttle, the pressure before the throttle body, will rise, because the throttle body will close and the turbo will still be pumping boost. So at this point the pressure after the throttle body will be bugger all (which is what you want your bosst gauge to read), but the boost before the throttle body will keep going up until the wastegate is opened. So you want your boost controller connected before the throttle body so that when the boost tries to go past what you have dialed into the settings, it will open the wastegate for you to prevent overboosting.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Who did you have do the installation? I actually know someone who is VERY familiar with the AVS gear. The main point of contact though would be your installer.   Where are you based in NZ?
    • Look, realistically, those are some fairly chunky connectors and wires so it is a reasonably fair bet that that loom was involved in the redirection of the fuel pump and/or ECU/ignition power for the immobiliser. It's also fair to be that the new immobiliser is essentially the same thing as the old one, and so it probably needs the same stuff done to make it do what it has to do. Given that you are talking about a car that no-one else here is familiar with (I mean your exact car) and an alarm that I've never heard of before and so probably not many others are familiar with, and that some wire monkey has been messing with it out of our sight, it seems reasonable that the wire monkey should be fixing this.
    • Wheel alignment immediately. Not "when I get around to it". And further to what Duncan said - you cannot just put camber arms on and shorten them. You will introduce bump steer far in excess of what the car had with stock arms. You need adjustable tension arms and they need to be shortened also. The simplest approach is to shorten them the same % as the stock ones. This will not be correct or optimal, but it will be better than any other guess. The correct way to set the lengths of both arms is to use a properly built/set up bump steer gauge and trial and error the adjustments until you hit the camber you need and want and have minimum bump steer in the range of motion that the wheel is expected to travel. And what Duncan said about toe is also very true. And you cannot change the camber arm without also affecting toe. So when you have adjustable arms on the back of a Skyline, the car either needs to go to a talented wheel aligner (not your local tyre shop dropout), or you need to be able to do this stuff yourself at home. Guess which approach I have taken? I have built my own gear for camber, toe and bump steer measurement and I do all this on the flattest bit of concrete I have, with some shims under the tyres on one side to level the car.
    • Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
×
×
  • Create New...