Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys, just thought i would post up one of the most helpful tips when installing a Just Jap or Hybrid or similar FMIC. One ommision from these kits is the nipple for the boost controller which is actually just amazing. anyway...

Some poeple believe you can take a feed off something else such as the blow off valve or something after the throttle body. this is not correct. GFB state this in bold in their Atomic boost controller install instructions and i have scoured other boost controller instructions and they all take a pressure feed from before the throttle body.

so to have this available i have used the pipe work that you would normally take out for this intercooler upgrade.

there are two stock pipes that run down throught the metal work of the car to the stock intercooler location. one you would norammly keep which runs from the turbo to the intercooler. the other is normally upgraded with the chrome piping comming from the other side of the engine bay.

if you chop this discarded pipe about 2 thrids of the way down, you can use it to replace the stock pipe that is still in place. you will then have a nipple available to feed your boost controller.

i will post picks of what i have done, but i am much happier i have finnally got the pressure feed correct.

peace out people...

any questions just ask...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/152593-r33-fmic-installation-tips/
Share on other sites

i just drill a hole in the pipe and tap a thread and screw in a nipple easy simple and quick

Hey mate,

Where do i go and what od i ask for to get everything i need to do this?

Also does it have any problmes leaking boost at high levels?

Cheers

  • 8 months later...
  • 2 weeks later...

What the wall thickness of the stock pipes? I dont think the JJ kits Aluminium piping is very thick. It would be nice to have about 2mm of wall thickness to tap into. You can do the pipe just coming out of the turbo (stock pipe) or the one oafter the intercooler.

If you have a pressure drop across your cooler you may get different boost levels depending where you position it.

  • 4 months later...
  • 3 weeks later...

im in the middle of installing my just jap front mount, and i just drilled a hole, made sum threads and screwed in a nipple - easy.

one problem i am having is the front indicator/parking lights dont go all the way bak into there position because the bak hits the front mount. :|

oh and the little pipe that you have to drill and connect the boost hose too looks abit wonked and its pissing me off abit, doesnt look all straight

any help guys?

ps i havent trimmed the fan blades

  • 2 months later...
  • 1 month later...
AVC-R states after the throttle???

Dudes,

A boost GAUGE would be connected after the throttle body. IE, the inlet manifold.

A boost CONTROLLER/wastegate would be connected before the throttle body.

A controller needs to open the wastegate to adjust the boost, so when you take your foot off the throttle, the pressure before the throttle body, will rise, because the throttle body will close and the turbo will still be pumping boost. So at this point the pressure after the throttle body will be bugger all (which is what you want your bosst gauge to read), but the boost before the throttle body will keep going up until the wastegate is opened. So you want your boost controller connected before the throttle body so that when the boost tries to go past what you have dialed into the settings, it will open the wastegate for you to prevent overboosting.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
×
×
  • Create New...