Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

agreed with morgs :pirate:

But my theory?

200rwkw in a well sorted street car is plenty.

I agree with these 2 guys. What about, instead of spending big money on making it go fast, :woot: just spend money on making it look good and have a good sound system?

ive got 168rwkws at 4400rpm ,268 rwkws at 4600rpm ,300 rwkws at 5200rpm and 346 rwkws at 6900rpm and i dont have to rev it right out to get good acceleration. if it rains turn down boost and keep her under 4k.

you jump 100rwkw in 200 rpm.... must be one hell of a time in the wet, even with the boost turned down, it still obviously comes on late and very hard... but then you get that with a GT3040....

Edited by VB-

I have wondered this question myself after explaining to my poor wife that 'i just need another...'

If ever I actually get to a point where 'Thats enuff" then i guess i'd get bored and build my own car from scratch. But thats just me!

Any other idea's? :P

After being in many setups, RB25 with around 240-250rwkw GCG hi-flow, that impressed me the most for the street in a RWD car

Far more than my GT30/270rwkw on PULP.

I had power after around 4000rpm, but the hi-flow just had power everywhere and that makes a fast streeter with good tyres/suspension etc

I have an RB20 with 240rwkw and it is useless on the street. much better if I turn the boost down and have 200rwkw, otherwise it just spins the wheels.

ad as someone else pointed out I am already doing 100 by the time i change into third. it is fun winding it out in 2nd tho :)

I think perfect street car is where you dont have to do anything (ie turn down boost) and can jump in it and go drive somewhere in almost any conditions and feel safe. ATM in my car I can give it full stick in the wet in 2nd with no wheel spin, and brake with resonable ease. And I dont have to wind down the boost. The power level would obviously be different in different cars. Do suspension mods instead. Do an exaust so it sounds fast. And get a nice quality stereo, think about how many hours you spend driving.

But thats my oppinion.

".... if it rains turn down boost and keep her under 4k."

Thats the plan! Personaly I dont even bother turning it down I just stick to the sub 4000 rpm rule....wheel spin is controlled through the modulation of the right foot. Eventually I want to have around 430Kw at the wheels. Why? Because I want to be engaged in driving my weekend car..the driving is the adventure, during the week its a 91 Pulsar no mods.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Wife wanted basket things in the wardrobe in our temporary house. Thought about ripping our the wardrobe and fitting the entire IKEA set, but it's a temporary house and we want to move in a few years. So IKEA advertises this as a 50cm unit, however the actually basket and rails measure 46cm wide. Only issue was depth, IKEA stuff is quite deep, where as the builder special junk is super shallow at less than 40cm. Send it, chopped the rails, then offset the mounting holes, job done, happy wife, less shit scattered all over the bedroom. Did the same to the other side too. Also drove the Skyline shit box today, dropped off oil at Supercheap Auto. I didn't realise they only now take max 2x bottles per visit. I visited 2x Supercheap Autos.  
    • I've seen similar actually in my situation. You never know what tables are attempted to be used when the car thinks it's -99C or +200C. The fail state is not usually that extreme but you know what I mean - it was in my case though! This is where being able to read all the sensors is useful cause you see this stuff really quickly.
    • The above is very important. However as long as you keep timing relatively low, it's plausible to make your own knock ears and plausible to learn to tune with a modern ECU that can do wideband O2 correction like a boost controller. I mean if you only have one viable road to even drive the car on, learning to tinker to this level may be worth doing given you can't do much else with the car...?
    • I find the fact that the rear plate has to be bent inwards at the rear not so bad: but the front is just awful: It's like come on. (these are my very old, now retired/turned in plates) TBH it is a lot of money to fix a minor issue, the fact I said "I'll never really spend the money on doing this" is why people ended up buying them as a gift for a 'car guy' who can be hard to shop for.. for car guy things.
    • I just bent the ends of my premo plates. It even went through Regency like that after the engine conversion and the inspector (a great bloke!) just squinted his eyes and said "I didn't see that". Plates, and how they look, are just something that have zero importance to me.
×
×
  • Create New...