Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Presuming i have a complete rb26dett turbo's n all, can anyone give me a "rough" estimate of cost in putting it in a GTS-t? Not including supports such as brake upgrade and engine supports (cooler, fuel, clutch etc) just having the motor running in the car.

Anyone here personally done this?

My main reasons for wanting to do so is that i can get the car pretty much legally registered with around the same power i have now on stock turbos, plus i like the twin turbo power delivery in a RWD car, plus an rb26 is just cooler :P

cheers.

i realise this is not a cost effective exercise.

Edited by SLY33
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/152866-cost-of-gtr-engine-into-gtst/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 42
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Well motor in/out generally people stick that around 1k, sometimes its 800/700 but 1k flat is an nice even number.

So i would say realistically $2k for the transplant, all the wiring up and cooler piping done, exhaust mated up.

2k would sound reasonable to me

There wouldnt be much in it if you sell of the RB25 (& loom etc) as it'll pay most the conversion cost i would imagine.

So outta pocket you might be a few hundred (plus RB26 purchase)

thats not bad..

are GTR front cuts plentiful?

thanks Nismoid

I couldnt tell you dude.

I paid near 4k (nearly 1.5yrs ago) for a complete RB26 with loom, included turbos/plenum etc etc.

So basically ready to rock and roll. Just needed to drop it in.

But then i rebuilt it, turbos etc etc. You know how it goes :)

So i reckon overall it would cost you maybe 5k at the most as i would imagine you could pickup a running RB26 with loom etc etc for less than what i paid, plus the re-sale of the RB25 (in stock form), if you have other bolton's to the RB25, sell them off separate and you stand to do the conversion even cheaper

why not attempt to do all the ins and outs by yourself and then just get a workshop to do the wiring?

x2

Its pretty easy to put an engine in......if you had a whole 1/2 cut it would be piss easy

also wiring isnt rocket science, you could get away with it for a 3 day weekend (if ur a noob at it) hire of an engine crane / stands or even just some tyres.

Day one remove RB25, take out rb26 and put in Rb26, start bolting shit up, ave a few beers

day 2 start wiring, possiably get running

day 3, finish wiring / tidy up, drive

I dare say it will all be plug and play as far as the looms go, IE plug for dash / fuel pump plugs / plugs in engine bay are same....But im more familiar with R31/32 looms, and R33 gtst, never played with r33 gtR

-Jez

You are forgeting that the GTR has a front diff wacked in the center of the sump. It needs to be removed and the sump modified to suit the RWD layout. 3 day job its not.

Wiring a 26 into the same era GTS-T is not overly hard. Most of its straight forward much like a CA-SR conversion on a silvia.

Piping and so forth is not a bolt up and forget affair either. GTR uses a forward facing plenum the GTS-T does not, Air con lines are different if your concerned with that. Several things will come into it that are easily overlooked.

I am very interested in this. I originally bought the 33 cause I didn't want the complexity of a GTR drivetrain, but have always had plans to put an insane engine in. I dont see the point in putting bling boltons in there, just saving up for a big rebuild and enjoying the car as nissan intended atm.

I understand that this is basically going to involve putting a GTR front onto a GTST back. But done correctly and along with a bare metal respray and full rebuild of suspension I reckon that this be a winner. (So long as money is spent where it is due and work is carried out properly :))

What do u guys reckon? Do we have a winner?

You are forgeting that the GTR has a front diff wacked in the center of the sump. It needs to be removed and the sump modified to suit the RWD layout. 3 day job its not.

Wiring a 26 into the same era GTS-T is not overly hard. Most of its straight forward much like a CA-SR conversion on a silvia.

Piping and so forth is not a bolt up and forget affair either. GTR uses a forward facing plenum the GTS-T does not, Air con lines are different if your concerned with that. Several things will come into it that are easily overlooked.

The front diff does not pose a problem for an expirienced fabricator.

I only had to trial fit my motor twice before it was perfect (front diff removed) and it didnt cost anything extreme to have done.

The plenum isnt an issue, most people have a FMIC these days.

And i know (from my HR/RB26 conversion) its just a case of some shaving of the headlight surround to get the piping to the front of the car/cooler intake

We've lined it all up, and spent a lot of time looking at it, and provided you had the sump already complete.

I reckon i would be a 3-day job pretty easily if you had everything you needed there and didnt forget stuff.

The modding of the sump is they only real place i can see where you might get stuck, as thats where i did.

Other than that, i agree, its not a very difficult conversion like the CA-->SR :)

Also worth thinking about is the condition of the RB26.

You want it checked very well first.

Also the turbos, personally i would change them (and i did) as i dont really want a turbo letting go.

And lets face it, there is a mild chance of it letting go and things getting even more costly very quick

Well since most front cuts would be written off track s**ts I'd say its a given that it would need a full rebuild. Just need a :sorcerer: to give me some cash to get started.

Serious though I am pretty keen on this.

Lol watch this space!

i cleaned out my PM box as it was really full and deleted his PMs. :) sorry

i knw his name is Mark J. H

as it is the same as me Mark J. H he lives in perth or adelaide or somewher he has a white R33 GTST..

thats all i can help with sorry. good bloke. if u find him he should help out.

Edited by markimak

Noice! This is definitely becoming a project. I will make a thread when i'm ready to start building but I want to do a whole lot of research first.

I want to try and track down Mark to to get a few ideas for starters :)

i would definitly rebuild it, i wouldnt bother throwing an old motor in and hoping it will be ok. Same goes for the turbos. Are N1 turbo's considered an OEM item as far as the defect police are concerned? In SA ive heard of people having to 'prove' that their turbos are standard by running the numbers and checking they are factory nissan items. I think they may even be picky about garret replacements! very gay. but im sure there is a turbo option they will approve that will still give me 300+rwkw.

would be a very cool thing to do. Bloody hell these cars... i havent even finished the GTR and im thinking about spending MORE money on the GTS-t, a project that was supposedly "finished". They are NEVER finished are they guys..! :)

GT-SS are bolt on replacement, same as the Garrett equivs

They are the same housings as the stock turbos, so there is no chance other than pulling them off and measuring the wheels to workout whats on there.

The ID plate isnt the same, but if your really worried just remove it.

So is there anyone on the forums who has actually performed this conversion? I have my mad old race mechanic from when I was racing motorcross/enduros on board and he is keen to get stuck into the GTS as long as I keep it looking stock so its a sleeper :) He has performed mods such as a 500HP Ford Windsor into a 240Z with Nismo running gear so im guessing he is a little keen to get stuck in!

The conversion is pretty straight forward as Nismoid said.

The only thing that prevents it being an unbolt/bolt affair is the sump and some piping which is really not that hard.

I havent done one into an R33 but I have done a Z33 and R32. Its not really that difficult.

If your fabricator mate is handy then it should not take to long to get in and running/

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Driveline vibration is resolved. I ended up loosening all my engine mount and trans mount bolts, giving it a good shake then retightening everything and it's gone... Let's just say I was surprised that fixed it.  I've been happily driving it around again but unfortunately put zero time into my direct port/constant pressure WMI setup. I'm on vacation next week, so I'll try and finalize it then.  On a different note, I spent all week fuel/ignition mapping 2x 216L V16 engines. Turbo's were burning glycol and we swapped them out for larger units. We also had planned emissions testing on site, so I figured I'd be there the same week to use their instrumentation and massage any emissions issues out if needed. This was a first for me. Fuel management is similar in certain ways to automotive (i.e air density as load variable) but very different in others. It's all PLC based and AFR's are controlled by air and not fuel. They use a control valve between the turbo and air manifold to control pressure which in turn controls AFR's. Due to this, target AFR tables supplied by the OEM are in pressures and not mass which really through me off. They use air pressure vs fuel pressure tables. I also relied on an O2 concentration sensor the emissions team had in the exhaust. Ignition timing was also all over the place and we were losing a fair bit of power. They're now happily sitting at 16-40BTDC depending on load. We were making about 1600kw at 900rpm at 90% load. Engines were running a lot smoother as well.    
    • heh, aint no R32 ever meeting modern targa cage rules unless the driver is veeeery short OP, good luck with the sale, since its already in the land of freedom I'm sure you will find a good buyer.
    • meh, it was a good video, clear about the issue and how he dealt with it. A bit heavy on the RTV and very brave to put an RB in anything without rebuilding it first, but otherwise I thought it was good Dose, I'm not sure that having the pickup forward is a big issue; yes of course the oil could shift under brakes but the sump should never be empty enough for that to be a problem (unless you also have a higher volume oil pump, and that oil can't return from the head to the sump quickly enough)
    • I can donate $100 to your upgrade fund. So long as you can donate the IC7 my way....
    • I'd love a Haltech ECU, and Haltech 10 dash. Was having a chat with Rob and Andy @ Haltech when Rob put one in his MR2. First one I'm kind of interested in too, as you can dim it RIGHT down. Andy was saying bright dashes is one of his peeves too!
×
×
  • Create New...