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Gtr Xenons Installation Problem Worth $100 To You..

JUN R33

By JUN R33,
in General Maintenance

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JUN R33 Rising Star

JUN R33

Posted
Posted (edited)

I'm having trouble at the moment trying to get the xenons I have on my GTR to sit inside the headlight fitting properly and not loose like it is now....it's kinda hard to describe in words but, I have included a photo of the xenons on my GTR and I hope that is enough for similar owners to understand what it is I am trying to get fitted properly.

If ANYONE can help me solve this friggin annoying problem, I will transfer $100 into your account for the help. No Questions Asked.

The problem really is pissing me off THAT badly.

post-1384-1169523175.jpg

Edited by JUN R33
Sumo Mentor

Sumo

Posted
Posted

Heh, those globes are not a H4 base. I think they are a D2S or something like that, which means they will not lock into place. They are NOT a direct replacement, modification will have to be made, I have never done a retro fit for globes - so I cant offer advice.

Cheers

Sumo

MANWHORE Grand Master

MANWHORE

Posted
Posted (edited)

Did you not get my pm?

I have done numerous hid installs as well as retrofits. my dad is an electrical engineer and this is our field of specialty.

As I said, if you want, give me a call, and i can even get the stuff you need for ya if you're in sydney.

my numbers 0403 211 482

We know a lot about electronics as well as hid itself. PS: depending on what car you have, h4 is most likely not the one you need.

what gtr do you have?

r32s projectors are either h3c or h1. r32 reflector is h4. gtr33 is h1.

give me a call and I can tell you anything you need. if you're in sydney, you can even have a look at my setup, or i can have a look at your car and tell you what you need.

Cheers

Chris

Edited by MANWHORE
Sumo Mentor

Sumo

Posted
Posted

Manwhore: How do you go with the retro fit's? We were doing some testing with the XenonOz range of globes and found on an older car, that if the contacts in the switching were worn, that after the 3-4 flicks of the starter and the globe had not being lit - you would end up with no lights.

The HID stuff can initially take up to 30amps to start a light we found.... Thats big current draw for small switching.

Cheers

Sumo

MANWHORE Grand Master

MANWHORE

Posted
Posted
Manwhore: How do you go with the retro fit's? We were doing some testing with the XenonOz range of globes and found on an older car, that if the contacts in the switching were worn, that after the 3-4 flicks of the starter and the globe had not being lit - you would end up with no lights.

The HID stuff can initially take up to 30amps to start a light we found.... Thats big current draw for small switching.

Cheers

Sumo

If the switch is worn, then it's worn. There's nothing that can be done except either replace it, or do a makeshift repair to it. It's probably cheaper to just replace it with a second hand unit in good nick for $20-30.

Basically, even under normal use, the switch does get worn from constant switching. Increased current draw makes it worse. I.e. when people run 100 watt bulbs.

One of the cars that I was working on had a switch that was completely melted and shorting out once the battery was connected. I had a look out the front, and the whole headlight loom was melted and shorting out too. When I had a look in the headlight, the plug was melted and the reflector material was peeling. When I had a look at the bulb, I almost had a heartattack. I have never ever seen these for sale. It had a 150 watt bulb in there! 3 times stock wattage.

Anyways, with xenons, once they're started, they draw 35 watts. Which is less than halogen (55 watt). However, when they're starting, they draw more power.

Just so that my circuits can handle the power, I make a dedicated wiring loom relayed and fused from power. By doing this, you also make your switch last almost forever. Since the only current on the switch, is just the few milliamps used to power the relay.

Al Grand Master

Al

Posted
Posted
Just so that my circuits can handle the power, I make a dedicated wiring loom relayed and fused from power. By doing this, you also make your switch last almost forever. Since the only current on the switch, is just the few milliamps used to power the relay.
That's what i did. It's the only safest way to modify the power supplied to lights.
MANWHORE Grand Master

MANWHORE

Posted
Posted (edited)

Not slagging off sumo in anyway, but i'll be fair to Jun. He seemed like a reasonable person when I spoke to him on the phone. Sumo was not the first and also, the headlights that jun has does not take h4 bulbs.

I'll let you guys know what the problem was.

Jun's car is a sIII r33gtr. From factory, they have the d2s xenon bulbs in the projector headlight.

The previous owner of the car had swapped the sIII headlights with some standard sI halogen lights. These lights take a h1 bulb.

However, the previous owner had kept the ballast hooked up and just stuffed the d2s bulb into the h1 hole (of course it doesn't fit or lock in).

therefore, the solution is to remove the ballast and bulb, and wire up from the 12 volt source to a spade fitting to use a h1 bulb in the housing. The retaining wire was removed, so one needed to be fabircated using some metal wire. And a new dust cap needed to be sourced, as the previous owner threw it out.

This is the solution to utilise the sI headlights that are in there. An alternative is to buy sIII gtr xenon headlights for 2.5k

a h1 xenon kit can be purchased and put into the sI headlight that will fit, but I ABSOLUTELY do not recommend them in anyway. They'll have shit light output (less than the halogens on the road, and will be glary, because a lot of the light gets shot all over the place because the halogen housing isn't designed for a hid bulb. They have different focal points).

Edited by MANWHORE
  • 1 month later...

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