Jump to content
SAU Community

Hi I'm New To This Site!

GZillar

By GZillar,
in Introduce yourself

 Share

Recommended Posts

GZillar Rookie

GZillar

Posted
Posted (edited)

Hello,

I currently own a 180sx (sr20det) with around 200rwkw. I'm planing on selling this soon and buy a late model R33, My opinion is that i reckon Skylines are a stronger built car in and out and my power goal will be no more then 250-270rwkw with nice deep dish wheels, a nice clean streetbale kit with a good suspsension setup, clean interior with the ocasional track day.

I've come to this site not as a noob but with massive knowledge of tuning and modyfying silvias and will help out all i can to fellow menbers.

ps; i've come from Ns.com and have been a member there since 02

Cheers!

Edited by GZillar
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/153330-hi-im-new-to-this-site/
Share on other sites
GZillar Rookie

GZillar

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Welcome to the crew. RB power FTW =D

(if only Skylines weren't so heavy!)

*puts flame suit on..*

Invest in carbon doors, boot, bonnet, fenders and get a custome made aluminium roof! :)

you've said the all the right things.....you may pass
Oh thank you :P
gee i dunno guys been on ns for that long might have affected him somehow

welcome btw

Huh? :huh:
awesome first post. i'm putting u on my list!
Just like leaving an apple on the teachers desk :(

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Duncan
      R32 only blows hot air

      By Duncan · Posted

      Not really, but the heater box is pretty simple mechanically....if the door is one way the air bypasses the heater core and if it is the other way it goes through it for warm air.  If you are sure the actuator you moved manually is for the heater mix (there would also be one for output air direction) then I'd take the heater box out and see what is happening (you'll have to regass and re-coolant the systems afterwards) BTW pp724 onwards from the GTR workshop manual cover the system in good detail, it is probably worth checking. I think the IAT sensor might be a problem electrically for getting cold (if you got 24 error code not -24 it thinks the incoming air is -50c) and it covers how to test the sensor (although most likely it is either not plugged in or a wire is damaged)
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      Leaking Rear Subframe Bushing?

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      Use the GKTech subframe bush and bring your subframe 10mm closer to the chassis. You'll need to fix an exhaust hanger to suit. One of the best mods I've done.
    • Duncan
      Wires cut underneath shifter cover

      By Duncan · Posted

      You'd really have to pull it apart further to know, it least you can be confident that the one heading to the back is not connected any more. There was once a ground on the shifter seal mount too, your head unit issue could be that simple
    • TurboTapin
      Leaking Rear Subframe Bushing?

      By TurboTapin · Posted

      Perfect, I'll get to it this winter then at the same time as I weld on my anti squat kit. 
    • SeanR32GtSt
      R32 only blows hot air

      By SeanR32GtSt · Posted

      Alright so my 32 only has one temperature no matter what degree you set it to. I’ve tried disconnecting the servo motor arm and moving it either direction and got no change. I’ve fixed the leak in my AC and re charged it and with it on and clutch engaged it still blows hot even though the low pressure pipe going to the firewall is ice cold. Both heater core hoses are hot while running as well. Diagnostic code showed 24 for intake air temperature sensor. Anybody got any ideas?
×
×
  • Create New...