Jump to content
SAU Community

Gtr Turbo's

No Crust Racing
 Share

Recommended Posts

Angus Smart Grand Master

Angus Smart

Posted
Posted (edited)

get the part number between the two housings and someone will tell you what they are.

its not that hard to see you just need to be on the right angle

n1's are only 1300 each brand new

Edited by Angus Smart
wrxhoon Grand Master

wrxhoon

Posted
Posted
I was able to get these pics, can someone tell me anything from these? Actuator looks stock (still trying to work out where my boost is being controlled from) Writing says Garrett AR .53 1-2 on it (are these stock R33 GTR units?) Included a pic of the compressor if that helps at all?

post-23873-1169777900.jpgpost-23873-1169780032.jpgpost-23873-1169780061.jpgpost-23873-1169780117.jpg

You have BNR34 housing there mate, R33GTR turbos are AR 42 not 53.

wrxhoon Grand Master

wrxhoon

Posted
Posted
EDIT: - How is boost being controlled if the restrictor is still in place as I thought 9psi was factory and if the guage is reading +7mmHg then that's like 13.5psi?
Cheers

How do you know a) the stock restrictor is there and b) That you actually get 13.5 PSI?

You will have to put in a proper boost gauge ( one that you know is correct) and check boost with that. The stock boost gauge doesn't even have a scale .

Normal boost on R33 GTRs is about 11psi and when you have big exhaust and or bigger front pipes it can go up to 13-14 PSI.

wrxhoon Grand Master

wrxhoon

Posted
Posted
As sewid mentioned you will need restrictors on the oil lines for any ball bearing turbo , DON'T overlook that , you may blow the seals.

im putting gt2560r-5 on my gtr,whats this oil restrictors ya talking about.i was just going to bolt them..will happen for sure blowing the seals if i dont??

cheers kane

sorry to hijack thread action dan

I'm not sure if your turbo kit has oil line restrictors with it or not, if not you will need them or you may blow the seals, I'm guessing you dont have a 34 because 34's have them .

HKS turbo kits come with restrictors and all gaskets you need to do the swap.

No Crust Racing Grand Master

No Crust Racing

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I know the restrictor is in place coz i have taken the hose offand looked at the little olive pip inside the line.

I'm not sure that it's actually 13.5psi but 700mmHg on that guage is approx 13.5psi and the guage reads 7 under full boost.

Yay R34 GTR turbo's, so they're ballbearing but still ceramic right?

Where am I looking to see if I have the restrictors?

wrxhoon Grand Master

wrxhoon

Posted
Posted
I know the restrictor is in place coz i have taken the hose offand looked at the little olive pip inside the line.

I'm not sure that it's actually 13.5psi but 700mmHg on that guage is approx 13.5psi and the guage reads 7 under full boost.

Yay R34 GTR turbo's, so they're ballbearing but still ceramic right?

Where am I looking to see if I have the restrictors?

You cant be sure its the stock restrictor in the hose. They may have some sort of bleed valve maybe?

As I said before you don't really know how much boost you are running until you have it checked ( may very well be 13.5 but could be even 16? 12? who knows?

What other work was done on this car besides turbos? Maybe ajustable actuators ? Check with compressed air and a proper gauge to see at what pressure the actuators crack.

You can't see the oil line restrictors because they are in the oil feed lines, R34 GTR turbos are ball bearing and ceramic exhaust wheel.

I didnt say you have R34 GTR turbos, I said the AR 53 is 34 GTR turbo housing, for all you know they maybe hybreeds? They may well could be stock BNR turbos, you should be able to hear the turbos still spinning after you stop the engine if they are ball bearing BNR turbos .

No Crust Racing Grand Master

No Crust Racing

Posted
  • Author
Posted

There's no bleed valve anywhere I can see (doesn't mean one doesn't exist just can't be easily spotted).

The car is going on a dyno in the next week or two and I'll have some more conclusive numbers for everything then.

Besides turbos car has full exhaust, apexi panel filter, Impul chipped ECU, splitfires, iritop plugs and seemingly more boost as far as power mods go.

They could be hybrids yes, doubtful though I'd think. Where's the part number located so I can cross reference it.

To know what the turbo's spinning down after the engine stops sounds like I'd need a basis for comparison so can't comment on that.

markimak Grand Master

markimak

Posted
Posted
Some of the top workshops and tuners both in Japan and Australia disagree with you.

hehe some.

its all personal opinions. nothing beats the power and simplicity of a big single.. screw balancing each turbo and matching them precisly.

anyway. N1 are a factory option.. they are designed withing the limits of the other support items. fuel...

  • 6 months later...
No Crust Racing Grand Master

No Crust Racing

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Geez guys way to dig up an old thread =D

I sold the GTR months ago!

For the record, I found that it had R34 GTR Turbo's in it - though still do not know what boost it was running. The new owner had it dyno'd (Dyno dynamics, shootout mode etc) and it made 247.5awkw's with a pretty rich mixture - he's got a PFC and some Cam gears to go in it shortly and will try and find out boost when he runs it again (have the sheet if anyone is interested).

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Nah, that is hella wrong. If I do a simple linear between 150°C (0.407v) and 50°C (2.98v) I get the formula Temperature = -38.8651*voltage + 165.8181 It is perfectly correct at 50 and 150, but it is as much as 20° out in the region of 110°C, because the actual data is significantly non-linear there. It is no more than 4° out down at the lowest temperatures, but is is seriously shit almost everywhere. I cannot believe that the instruction is to do a 2 point linear fit. I would say the method I used previously would have to be better.
    • GTSBoy
      DeAgostini 1/8 scale BNR32 Nissan Skyline GT-R Nismo

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      That's hilariously putrid!
    • GTSBoy
      R33 Fuel Pump & Brakes after alarm swap

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      When I said "wiring diagram", I meant the car's wiring diagram. You need to understand how and when 12V appears on certain wires/terminals, when 0V is allowed to appear on certain wires/terminals (which is the difference between supply side switching, and earth side switching), for the way that the car is supposed to work without the immobiliser. Then you start looking for those voltages in the appropriate places at the appropriate times (ie, relay terminals, ECU terminals, fuel pump terminals, at different ignition switch positions, and at times such as "immediately after switching to ON" and "say, 5-10s after switching to ON". You will find that you are not getting what you need when and where you need it, and because you understand what you need and when, from working through the wiring diagram, you can then likely work out why you're not getting it. And that will lead you to the mess that has been made of the associated wires around the immobiliser. But seriously, there is no way that we will be able to find or lead you to the fault from here. You will have to do it at the car, because it will be something f**ked up, and there are a near infinite number of ways for it to be f**ked up. The wiring diagram will give you wire colours and pin numbers and so you can do continuity testing and voltage/time probing and start to work out what is right and what is wrong. I can only close my eyes and imagine a rat's nest of wiring under the dash. You can actually see and touch it.
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      So I found this: https://www.efihardware.com/temperature-sensor-voltage-calculator I didn't know what the pullup resistor is. So I thought if I used my table of known values I could estimate it by putting a value into the pullup resistor, and this should line up with the voltages I had measured. Eventually I got this table out of it by using 210ohms as the pullup resistor. 180C 0.232V - Predicted 175C 0.254V - Predicted 170C 0.278V - Predicted 165C 0.305V - Predicted 160C 0.336V - Predicted 155C 0.369V - Predicted 150C 0.407V - Predicted 145C 0.448V - Predicted 140C 0.494V - Predicted 135C 0.545V - Predicted 130C 0.603V - Predicted 125C 0.668V - Predicted 120C 0.740V - Predicted 115C 0.817V - Predicted 110C 0.914V - Predicted 105C 1.023V - Predicted 100C 1.15V 90C 1.42V - Predicted 85C 1.59V 80C 1.74V 75C 1.94V 70C 2.10V 65C 2.33V 60C 2.56V 58C 2.68V 57C 2.70V 56C 2.74V 55C 2.78V 54C 2.80V 50C 2.98V 49C 3.06V 47C 3.18V 45C 3.23V 43C 3.36V 40C 3.51V 37C 3.67V 35C 3.75V 30C 4.00V As before, the formula in HPTuners is here: https://www.hptuners.com/documentation/files/VCM-Scanner/Content/vcm_scanner/defining_a_transform.htm?Highlight=defining a transform Specifically: In my case I used 50C and 150C, given the sensor is supposedly for that. Input 1 = 2.98V Output 1 = 50C Input 2 = 0.407V Output 2 = 150C (0.407-2.98) / (150-50) -2.573/100 = -0.02573 2.98/-0.02573 + 47.045 = 50 So the corresponding formula should be: (Input / -0.02573) + 47.045 = Output.   If someone can confirm my math it'd be great. Supposedly you can pick any two pairs of the data to make this formula.
×
×
  • Create New...