Jump to content
SAU Community

*Adjusting* the factory BOV in an R33

HOTR33

By HOTR33,
in Victoria

 Share

Recommended Posts

HOTR33 Enthusiast

HOTR33

Posted
Posted

Hey All.. A Concept that I've been familiar with, but never gone into ... is Adjusting the Stock BOV to get a 'fluttering' sound..

Apparently you block something.. but as I've not given any thought into it.. I've not tried anything..

So Does anyone know what the go is with adjusting your stock BOV to get a Fluttering sound?

Cheers..

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/15350-adjusting-the-factory-bov-in-an-r33/
Share on other sites
SKY33 Collaborator

SKY33

Posted
Posted

U sure ur not refereing to blocking off the BOV, so it gets bypassed and all u get the 'fluttering' of the cooler? I tried that on mine, waste of time really, u loose all the responsiveness, and the tiny stocky cooler doesnt really sound 'fully sik'!

APA Grand Master

APA

Posted
Posted

you block the return pipe form the bov, and due to the fact the air can't escape it goes back through the turbine, which is bad for your turbo so i suggest you do not do it! the fluttering sound is called compressor surge! sometimes you can get the flutter sound because your bov isn't tight enough but that is only for aftermarket bov's, this is why vl turbos, the early ca18 silvias make this flutter noise because they never came out with a standard bov :) this would be the 50 millionth time this has been explained

adrian :)

p.s:- never thought a 17 yr old would be explaining this to older people :)

dabigbolf Proficient

dabigbolf

Posted
Posted

why not just keep the standard bov. You get a nice sound with a pod. and if u want get a short alloy pipe from your turbo to replace the rubber hose. sounds even louder when spooling up. or just stick the pod off the turbo like they do on rotors.

either way i'd always go plumb back bov, unless i was running some type of aftermarket management, or safc so i could prevent stalling.

but u can run with no bov. people say its bad for your turbo, that compressor surge. I'd say not entirely true. Depends. If i had an auto i would run no bov. Like a lot of the hot vl turbos. As they just flat to the floor and no taking foot off throttle, thus no pressure being released anyways. And when you take your foot off in an auto, you aren't normally looking to speed up. Cause you dont have to change gears, so basically to slow down, so no lost throttle response. Thats my theory anyways.

but yeah, cars are confusing. so many ways to do stuff, but i say dont fix it unless its broken.

predator Grand Master

predator

Posted
Posted
this would be the 50 millionth time this has been explained

first time i've seen it :(

yer, stock BOV makes enough noise.. if you run 12psi or so it sounds cool anyway. That flutter noise is kinda cool when you hear it but then again its also talking to the cops going "canary me, canary me" at the same time.

Lot'a the aftermarket BOV's can do it properly .. so i'd be going for one of them if u really have to have that noise.

R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted
Originally posted by dabigbolf

but u can run with no bov. people say its bad for your turbo, that compressor surge.  I'd say not entirely true.  Depends.  

agreed.

even with a manual too... cause if you can change quick enough you can catch the boost spike... and then throw the extra few psi down the plenum's throat.

As for it being bad for your turbo... not really THAT bad.

in the end you'll need to have it re-built anyhow. Running no BOV only makes it occur quicker.

But still your turb's will last a few years. It's not as if it'll give up the gohst in 2 weeks.

I don't run a BOV at all. Much prefer to catch the spike and light tyres till 7500 RPM :D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      G'day!

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Consider a 35 too...
    • dbm7
      One Headlight isn't working - Driver Side Fuse Keeps blowing

      By dbm7 · Posted

      He's right ~ there is no 'magic' with stuff like this ... it is more likely that in the process of looking for the short, the loom/wire 'incidentally' got moved in the process, thus removing the short ~ now, that maybe a wire (in a loom) rubbing against the edge of some grounded metal, that's worn through the insulation, causing the (now intermittent) short to ground. If one wire in a loom has been damaged in this fashion, it's reasonable to presume that other wires beside it may have also be damaged, and now exposed...you can bet the green crusty copper corrosion will start... ...that'd be a pisser, Murphy's Law steps right in as GTS observes...but worse, something like that is easier to find when shorted...ie; unplug bulb and fuse, and put multimeter in continuity mode so you get constant beep, and carefully poke about hoping to find if some movemet of the harness stop the beeping.... ...it's still all a bit Arnie tho' ..It'll be back... 😃
    • GTSBoy
      One Headlight isn't working - Driver Side Fuse Keeps blowing

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yeah, but knowledge of one wire's insulation worn through to short on earth implies the possibility of other wires doing the same. I had my power steering die, because the wire that runs to the solenoid valve on the rack runs in the same loom as the power wire for the O2 sensor. And when the O2 sensor/wire did something stupid and burnt part of that loom to death, the only indication was the shit(ter) fuel economy and the heavy steering. It took deep excavation of the looms in the bay to find the problem. Not wear through in that case, but similar shit.
    • MBS206
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Ah, I thought he'd wired it to one of the spare ECU inputs! Too long ago since I read that post, ha ha. I've been arguing with radiators, harmonic balancers, alternators and rust since reading it.
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      Correct. The ECU cannot read oil temp. (Well, I think it probably can in some situations. I did have the thought of potentially repinning the ECU when I was doing oil pressure). I am using this into the MPVI dongle, so that the MPVI dongle can read oil temperature. It is attached to a VDO gauge which is obviously calibrated to whatever curve the sender actually is using. This would be easy if I could setup a table of voltage to temperature like many sensors, but it appears I cannot do this and can only setup the transform rule which appears to be Input (voltage) x Multiplier, and add an offset. This to me means it MUST be linear. So it may be a complete waste of time wiring this into the ECU. The idea was that the MPVI3 has standalone logging. I wanted to use this instead of a laptop with serial cable (for wideband) for long datalogs. Given the wideband also has electric interference, I may never trust this either in a world where the serial wideband and the analog output wideband do not agree. Last time I did a trace I could see the two wideband traces follow each other, but one was a little leaner than the other. I plan on playing with voltage offsets and actually driving the thing to see how close they correlate. If they never correlate... then, well, maybe I'll never use either. Ideally I'd like to have the Analog wideband read ever so slightly leaner than the serial one, because the serial one is 'correct'. Tuning the car to be ever so slightly too-rich would be the aim. Not needing to have a laptop flying around in the footwell connected with cables is... an advantage. About the only one from the forced upgrade to MPVI3.
×
×
  • Create New...