Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

My intake plenum gasket has developed a leak. obviously the deteriorated part of the gasket would have been either sucked into the engine, or blown out (if there was positive boost at the time that it went!)..

Would a small part of a rubber gasket be enough to do damage to the engine internals?

Is there anything wrong with driving the car while effectively there is a small leak in the plenum? I'm thinking a lean situation if it's sucking in more air than is being read by the AFM.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/153593-intake-plenum-gasket-broken/
Share on other sites

there are 2 types of gaskets.. there is one that is completly rubber and one that has metal inside so when you replace it get the one with metal inside so this wont happen again. Common problem.

Ahh too late. Sorry Adam, I got the gasket in there yesterday - Shame you couldnt offload the gasket to me and get it out of your garage! Unfortunately I only had beer in stock anyway! :O

It turned out to be the rubber washers that space the bolts off the plenum - the washers had deteriorated and you could actually move the top of the plenum around because these washers were stuffed. Changed the plenum gasket, throttle body gasket, and all nine of these washers while I was in there too... Problem solved!

Thanks for your help guys ;)

just a side question, my r32 gtr has a noticeable whooshing noise around the middle of the inlet plenum.. this is around the same time by rear turbo's exhaust wheel went n i was thinking it was a vaccum leak/inlet manifold gasket leak until i found out bout the broken exhaust wheel - no boost.. after replacing my turbo's, the noise is still there.. upon closer inspection, the one of the nuts on the plenum was slightly loose, but after tightening the noise is still audible.. has the gasket blown while nut was not tightened properly and does it require a change? not sure if the noise is normal as never noticied it before..

thanks nesh

just a side question, my r32 gtr has a noticeable whooshing noise around the middle of the inlet plenum.. this is around the same time by rear turbo's exhaust wheel went n i was thinking it was a vaccum leak/inlet manifold gasket leak until i found out bout the broken exhaust wheel - no boost.. after replacing my turbo's, the noise is still there.. upon closer inspection, the one of the nuts on the plenum was slightly loose, but after tightening the noise is still audible.. has the gasket blown while nut was not tightened properly and does it require a change? not sure if the noise is normal as never noticied it before..

thanks nesh

Be careful... There is a specific torque setting that the bolts need to be done up to.. The reason for this is that you dont want to completely squash the rubber washer that sits below it. The rubber washer works as a buffer to allow the inlet plenum to sit flush with the gasket. If you over-tighten the bolt, then the plenum wont sit flat and flush. Once the rubber washers are deformed, you increase your risk of losing a seal with the gasket.

Get your hands on the service manual, it shows the torque settings for the bolts, and shows what parts should NOT be re-used when dismantling/reassembling the intake. The parts that should not be re-used are the plenum gasket, throttle body gasket, and the nine rubber washers (on the RB25DET).

Are you sure there is a leak there? The sound might just be induction noise? At idle, try dripping a small amount of water over joints in the intake. If there is a leak, you will see the water get sucked in, and the engine might skip a beat quickly. Dont use too much water obviously... :wave:

Thanks for the great info dude, i already have a tomei inlet plenum gasket and throttle body gasket but no rubber washers.. where can i get these from ($$) and do i need 9 rubber washers (r32 gtr)?

i tried testing the leak with some engine cleaner spray.. there was bubbling although it could have been due to heat.. ill try again tonight with some water on cold start..

Ahh sorry mate, upon looking at the service manual it seems that the RB26 has a different method of attaching the intake, I was talking about the RB25DET.

I've attached the service manual for the R33 RB26DETT, which should be exactly the same as the R32 for this kind of thing anyway. You can see that there isnt in fact any rubber washers on the RB26 like the ones I was talking about!

I would have a go with the water initially to see if you can locate a specific location for a leak (if any) and go from there.

Skyline_R33_RB26_Intake_Service_Manual.pdf

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
    • For race cars, this is one part where I find having the roll cage bar having gone through a hole in the floor better than the build it up on a ledge inside... The Merc I help on, the main hoop ends are marked on the car, and the jack is marked... Jack goes under a few inches and lifts one whole side of the car up... Removes that fight for long slim jacks for race car duties!   My biggest issue for the daily drivers I work on, is my jacks don't go high enough. The jacks start out on a few blocks, jack it up, then start a second jack under it on more blocks, and then I can get an axle stand under it. My axle stands are presently in use, and are nearly fully extended. The car is sitting with barely more than a cm of clearance to get the wheel off the studs! Sarah's Kluger is the same, as it has an ungodly amount of droop available in the suspension and a distinct lack of good jacking points!
    • Happy? Yep, my to do list is getting shorter and shorter. Either this light approaching is the end of the tunnel, or I'm about to be hit by a train... Ha ha ha   Also, Duncan isn't that far out of town that you need to make a multi day drive out of it. 😛
    • Sorry I meant that we are building the EH for a client.
    • LOL, when one "money pit" is never enough Noice, and excellent work mate
×
×
  • Create New...