Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 162
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

rough price for component + install + tune?

GTT is wire in as there is not enough volume even in japan to warrant manufacturing the R34 plug, i have done 3 or 4 including a non turbo R34 with GT-RS etc. R34 and NEO stagea require an ignition module that plugs in side the EMU. Rumors of burnt coils on R34 are because people dont read the instructions and forget to install this adapter. :mellow:

you need EMU, wiring harness, ignition adapter (internal plug in module for R34/ WGN34)

from any of the dealers the unit should be no more than $1000-1100 and $1500-1700 drive away depending on your tuner. these i would consider worst case pricing too.

Edited by URAS
nice, nice... now tell me they're making an 18" version of Uras NS-01 and i'll be sold on EMU :mellow:

haha NS02 coming soon....... waiting on specs atm. News only came through on friday.

Ill put in my vote for Microtech :P

Ive been running an LT-8s in my R32 (RB25) for about 18months and haven't had a problem.

Power is good, economy isnt bad, Its not awesome but no where enar as shit as people make it out to be.

Only dis advantage really is the fact that it isnt plug and play, but ocne its in who cares :dry:

The emanage blue maybe but the ULTIMATE will do everything the PFC will and more, ignition cut instead of fuel, D-jetro, nos control, water spray, on the fly map switching, A/f auto tune via wide band input, knock monitoring, full datalogging, launch control, programable outputs (x2) etc

I can confidently tune one of these to be anywhere near as good as any PFC, cats car is a perfect example.

The EMANAGE ULTIMATE got a bad rap because workshops of dubious ability wire them up wrong. (i do alot of GREDDY's australian tech support for them as i am thier largest acc holder and 99.9% is installer fault) the new plug and play harness's make it just as easy as a PFC to fit and they are super easy to tune.... as a bonus it eaven comes with the software to datalog/tune and so forth. this means you are not tied to one tuner like you would be with a remap.

i am more than happy to answer any emanage enquiries regardless of place of purchase on my email [email protected]

Please dont see this as a greddy plug as i also import sell and tune many a PFC, well as much of them as i can get my hands on lol (still have R34 GTR, S13 all, S14 all, JZZ30 and CA18...no R33 anymore)

cheers Trent

Hi Trent, thanks for the EManage update, it fills in a whole pile of gaps. From a tuners perspective I read a lot of what it will do, but very little about what it won't do. For example;

1. Does it handle ignition retard and cut for autos?

2. Is there a limit to the injector size?

3. What parts of the standard ECU control does it leave untouched?

4. Does it have a boost control option?

5. Does it allow for inlet air temp compensation?

6. How is the cold start and run tuning?

7. Anything else that you can think of that you would like it to have or that a Power FC has?

:P cheers :dry:

Definately is a limit on injectors size GReddy recommend no bigger than 150% due to the rescaling of the AFM voltage essentially running too much ignition timing as the map scale is way out of whack.

Burnt coils were a function of the dwell voltage on the e-manage blue, read the instructions all day and it wouldn't explain that fact, RX8's suffer the same fate...the ultimate is a different kettle of fish apparently, anyone burning coils with this may be installing wrong.

Either way I would still recommend the zeners as it regulates the trigger voltage down to a Nissan friendly 1.3v...the e-manage didn't have the luxury of altering that low.

Hi Trent, thanks for the EManage update, it fills in a whole pile of gaps. From a tuners perspective I read a lot of what it will do, but very little about what it won't do. For example;

1. Does it handle ignition retard and cut for autos?

2. Is there a limit to the injector size?

3. What parts of the standard ECU control does it leave untouched?

4. Does it have a boost control option?

5. Does it allow for inlet air temp compensation?

6. How is the cold start and run tuning?

7. Anything else that you can think of that you would like it to have or that a Power FC has?

:wub: cheers :P

I will post up screen shots tonight if that helps? it would help with my descriptions as it will show what the scales are and the adjustment points. There is more in the EMU than i would ever use.

1. Does it handle ignition retard and cut for auto?

Yes

2. Is there a limit to the injector size?

Blue version yes, but i have not found a point on the EMU that is too large ie running 850's on sr's and 720cc's on 26's etc are no stress, i have just done a 2jz with 1000cc but it is not turn key yet, it will be a good test expected 500-680rwkw

3. What parts of the standard ECU control does it leave untouched?

i will have to sit down and ponder that for a while because the more i play the more i find.

4. Does it have a boost control option?

No... soonish i hear full colour lcd possibility.

5. Does it allow for inlet air temp compensation?

Yes There is a inlet temp correction map

6. How is the cold start and run tuning?

Yes There is a water temp correction map

7. Anything else that you can think of that you would like it to have or that a Power FC has?

i use the data sampling option a fair bit which allows you to log the afm's then cut and paste these values into the airflow output map, this then allows you to remove the afm and fine tune via your normal process.

It has a timing offset set function for the datalogger.

its also has a speed correction map also.

launch control that actually works :) unlike my datalogit system lol but i built my bridge years ago :D

I will post up screen shots tonight if that helps? it would help with my descriptions as it will show what the scales are and the adjustment points. There is more in the EMU than i would ever use.

1. Does it handle ignition retard and cut for auto?

Yes

2. Is there a limit to the injector size?

Blue version yes, but i have not found a point on the EMU that is too large ie running 850's on sr's and 720cc's on 26's etc are no stress, i have just done a 2jz with 1000cc but it is not turn key yet, it will be a good test expected 500-680rwkw

3. What parts of the standard ECU control does it leave untouched?

i will have to sit down and ponder that for a while because the more i play the more i find.

4. Does it have a boost control option?

No... soonish i hear full colour lcd possibility.

5. Does it allow for inlet air temp compensation?

Yes There is a inlet temp correction map

6. How is the cold start and run tuning?

Yes There is a water temp correction map

7. Anything else that you can think of that you would like it to have or that a Power FC has?

i use the data sampling option a fair bit which allows you to log the afm's then cut and paste these values into the airflow output map, this then allows you to remove the afm and fine tune via your normal process.

It has a timing offset set function for the datalogger.

its also has a speed correction map also.

launch control that actually works :) unlike my datalogit system lol but i built my bridge years ago :D

Thanks for that, a few follow ups;

#1 How?

#3 Why does it need the standard ECU at all?

:wub: cheers :P

Thanks for that, a few follow ups;

#1 How?

#3 Why does it need the standard ECU at all?

:D cheers :wub:

i will post a screen shot tonight, i have never needed to use it yet and cause i get hit in the head alot i cant even remmeber its input / output requirements etc But iam 100% it does it cause i remmember going hey thats handy... then never using it :)

should i start another FAQ thread later tonight as this is becoming to specific? we can then use it to diagnose customer issues also?

thread a work in progress http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=161460

Edited by URAS

Im new to the greddy emanage ultimate

but so far the only prob I have come across is

where to put all the wires LOL

I have a Field One Touch Connector that mines wired into (makes it plug and play)

and it takes up lots of room

but Dan tells me that they can all be stuffed in behind the original ECU

I havent done this yet because im waiting to get it tuned then ill install it properly

and please start a FAQ thread trent

I have questions for you

I have emailed you again mate hopefully the last of my questions lol

Edited by Haines

Emanage ultimates seem very good and iv personally seen some of trents work and tuning... yes.. he does know how to tune.. and is very very VERY good at it, recomend him to anyone, aswell as Rob from creatd for power fcs...

Trent if rob cant find me a power fc ill be speaking to you about an emanage ultimate for my r33.

cheers. Phill

Emanage ultimates seem very good and iv personally seen some of trents work and tuning... yes.. he does know how to tune.. and is very very VERY good at it, recomend him to anyone, aswell as Rob from creatd for power fcs...

Trent if rob cant find me a power fc ill be speaking to you about an emanage ultimate for my r33.

cheers. Phill

you could always modify an rb26 pfc.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...