Jump to content
SAU Community

Jaycar Responce Amp

T04GTR

By T04GTR,
in Car Audio & Electrical

 Share

Recommended Posts

T04GTR Grand Master

T04GTR

Posted
Posted

hi.

have any of you guys had any issues with the jaycar responce 4x100 digital full range car amp?

ive been thru 2 so far!!!! the first one just stopped working.

and the second oner doesnt work at all!!

ive no probs with my class d sub amp but.

just curiouse as its only a 4ohm load and all hooked up properly....

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/153669-jaycar-responce-amp/
Share on other sites
grandmasterb Grand Master

grandmasterb

Posted
Posted
hi.

have any of you guys had any issues with the jaycar responce 4x100 digital full range car amp?

ive been thru 2 so far!!!! the first one just stopped working.

and the second oner doesnt work at all!!

ive no probs with my class d sub amp but.

just curiouse as its only a 4ohm load and all hooked up properly....

I had an internal earth issue with mine, took it back and never had a problem with the next one.

I only used it for about 6 weeks and i sold it :happy:

Did you do the install or was a professional install???

Chris Rogers Grand Master

Chris Rogers

Posted
Posted
I had an internal earth issue with mine, took it back and never had a problem with the next one.

I only used it for about 6 weeks and i sold it :(

Did you do the install or was a professional install???

sounds likethe red light of death to me. short the speaker wires for a second and it wont go ever again.

T04GTR Grand Master

T04GTR

Posted
  • Author
Posted

nup where alll done proper. i did it myself. i am a qualified mechanic. and know what im doing.

the first one just stopped all together. to the point where the protect light came on with just the power ooked up. nothing else.

the second one. wich is clearly a reapaird one cos one of the swithches is busted off.

no warning lights just the green one. and all you get is a loud crack threw the speakers :s

Chris Rogers Grand Master

Chris Rogers

Posted
Posted
nup where alll done proper. i did it myself. i am a qualified mechanic. and know what im doing.

the first one just stopped all together. to the point where the protect light came on with just the power ooked up. nothing else.

the second one. wich is clearly a reapaird one cos one of the swithches is busted off.

no warning lights just the green one. and all you get is a loud crack threw the speakers :s

first one did an output stage- quite common.

second could be anything. which switch?

(actually show me.)

Adelaideprosound Proficient

Adelaideprosound

Posted
Posted

Qualified mechanics work on my engine, noone qualified them to work on my car audio equipment :D.

Hahahahahah only joking dude. Are both amps running from the same power wire and fuse? If it was me i would first check whether you got a good power and earth on the amp and also that the remote wire is all good.

Its strange your first amp stopped working the second wont power up. If you got separate power cables for your 4 channel and class D i would check the fuse under the bonnet for the 4 channel.

George

Adelaide Pro Sound

DRD-00F Grand Master

DRD-00F

Posted
Posted

Ive got the previous model 400watt amp... its blue... ive had it powering 2 15's and its powering 2 12's right now cause my 3000watt amp is in the shop... ive never blown it, never 'over'heated (though i do over work it so its gonna get hot) the ONLY problem i ever had with it was one of the threads wore out cause i used it as a back up all the time... that was replaced for free...

dunno about their new range...

Demoniak Proficient

Demoniak

Posted
Posted
i got one of the old school blue ones too and its still goin, had it for about 2yrs now maybe 3.

jaycars primary focus is not amps...

i dont go for companies that dont excell in the areas i am interested in ( obviously)

do some more research on the net and get a few pointers from different peeps.

I personally like soundstream gear.. that stuff makes me happy in the pants

  • 6 months later...
abu Grand Master

abu

Posted
Posted

I have had a D-CLASS Reponse amp and had no problem, ran it pretty hard too.

My friend also has one running 3 x ALPINE 12" subs off his one and been running fine, also has a 4x100RMS one running his ALPINE splits, front and back with no issues.

Jaycar's amps are supposed to be very good quality and very good value for money.

Maybe you have just had bad luck.. twice lol

Anyways, hope it all works out.

Thanks,

Abu

T04GTR Grand Master

T04GTR

Posted
  • Author
Posted

also.. im not that clued up on this sort of thing but.. my head unit only puts out 2.2v preout. and to get any sort of decant volume i have to have the gain on the amps turned up the whole way. ie:down to the 500mv scale.

now is this a bad idea for sound quality, is this likly to make the amp clip more? will i be able to get more volume and better sound out of a propper headunit that puts out say 4v preout? (i dont use the headunit amp)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The Bogan
      NC MX5

      By The Bogan · Posted

      Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • joshuaho96
      Cas issue

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • joshuaho96
      Jacks that fit under GTR lips that can reach the subframe?

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Duncan
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Duncan · Posted

      Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...