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i heard about this conversion not too long ago and was wondering if you guys could answer some questions for me.

this is what i would like to do with it.

RB30E motor - compression tested and in good nic - $200

RB25DE head - $700

gaskets - $300

RB25 Turbo - $500

GTR injectors plus resistor pack - $320 ( could you use the RB20 fuel rail on the rb25 head? )

Apexi SAFC - $350 ( would this be ok on the standard R32 computer? )

also was wondering if the GTR plenum would bolt upto the RB25DE head?

if not just use the standard RB25 plenum.

use RB20 exhaust manifold ( would like to get maybe R33/4 turbo's and bolt on later on down the track )

what head gasket would you use?

what mods would you have to do to make the 4WD sump bolt onto the RB30?

can you still use the rb20 afm and sensors?

anything else that i have missed?

You can't stop crap from forums, they feed of that stuff ;)

Thats why people take the data and make PDF's that only include the useful information :P

I really should finish my PDF for S13 RB30 conversion.. good info for RB - S13 swap and RB26/RB30 build.

Also have done a S15/S13 conversion and RB25/R32 conversion.

Useful info for people who want to conversions and hybrids.

can anyone kind of clean up some stuff for me - this is what i get from the last arse thread

Series II RB30E bottom end – Big end bearings - $69

Mains - $92

Rb30de Head Gasket - $50

Bottom end Gasket kit - $57

Piston rings - $147

R32 RB25DE ( non VCT )head with intake manifold

Use all RB25DE fuel rail + injectors

Use RB20DET loom using all sensors

RB20DET water pump, oil pump, air con compressor, alternator using RB20DET brackets ( can also you rb30et oil pump )

Remap R32 RB20DET computer

4WD adapter for RB30 block

Dayco 94407 at 152 teeth cam belt – new tensioner new idler ( new position )

tap holes on side of block ( series 2 bolt = easier ) – oil and water lines for turbo.

anything else?

Rb30de Head Gasket - $50
rb30e....not de
Use all RB25DE fuel rail + injectors

Use RB20DET loom using all sensors

RB20DET water pump, oil pump, air con compressor, alternator using RB20DET brackets ( can also you rb30et oil pump )

Remap R32 RB20DET computer

use all these parts, but the ones off your car...ie what is on there now transfer.

Mr GTS4.

Read the last couple of pages over.

The series 1 blocks suck.

They lack the machined surface to mount the lower tensioner.

You need 2 tensioners.

I'll be updating the PDF as soon as Exams are over.

I've taken photo's of what needs to be modified and what needs to be purchased in order for the engine drop it to work.

Here is a dyno run of the RB30DET on the stock RB20T ECU.

Mods:

Bar & Plate FMIC rated at 580hp 1.5psi pressure drop

3" Exhaust turbo back

Standard airbox & injectors

Bosch 910 fuel pump

Stock RB20DET ECU

Stock Turbo - Wastegate wired up in the open position.

Base ignition timing - 15degree's.

The wastegate on the standard RB20DET Turbo has been wired open.

She still manages to make boost and some decent power.

BUT.. Half way through the power run you can see a bit of a lump where power dips and begins to pick up again.

The transition on to boost causes the car to lean out in to the 13's, the ecu detects slight detonation pulls the ignition timing from 22degree's to 8degree's and dumps a heap of fuel in (enough to see out the exhaust)

We could see how much ignition timing it was pulling as there was a Nissan datalogit thing hooked up to the port just under the steering wheel.

Once on boost (6psi) the AFR's drop to 11:1. (which blows a constant hase of black smoke out the exhaust)

The RB20DET ECU will be ok to run in the motor BUT you must not rev it over 4000rpm and or make boost. Wire the wastegate open and it 'should' be fine.

Not optimal and a tad lean but it will be fine providing you are sensible with the right foot.

AFR & PSI graphs are attached.

1. would it be better using a Apexi SAFC 2 than using a remapped ECU?

2. do you know of anywhere to get the sump adapter?

3. once the motor has been run in what would you expect out of it with std injectors, rb25T turbo, std afm, 500hp fuel pump, k+n filter, 3" turbo back zorst, FMIC, and about 12psi boost, and SAFC 2? at a 4 wheels :)

If you are going to spend the money on a remapped ECU I would save a little more and import a PowerFC via Nengun.

I'm unsure how the stock timing map will work once running boost.

Obviously the stocker turbo will be boosting hard before 2000rpm. There may be too much ignition timing in the map which may cause a few problems.

Only way to find out is to try and post your results. :D

Things are starting to happen for my engine.

The Scat h beam rods arrived yesterday and I'm more than happy with them.

It's actually a modified chev rod and wont accept rb30 rod bearings, I have some clevtite bearings on the way to suit.

The H beams are so much thicker all round compared to the stockers. :thankyou:

I have a question.

I'm worried about running the engine in with all the aftermarket parts i'll be using with a power fc on a standard rb25 tune.

Would it be better to run the engine in with the standard cams and injectors and install the pon cams and 740cc injectors later. (valve springs will be already installed.)

Will also be using a GT35R (700hp) and 48mm wastegate, i'd probably end up doing what joel did with his wastegate.

PS: also using arias forgies (8.5 comp) and a Q45 maf.

The turbo and that doesn't really matter but running big injectors for the initial start may flood the motor with fuel which is a very bad thing for the initial start and first few km's.

Speak to your tuner. He may be clued in how to do a bit of math and work out exactly what needs to be done to get a fairly close afr for the initial start with the larger injectors.

Also...

If any one has a dyno AFR run of the rb30det with a stock Rb25DET ecu could you please post it!

did you get the crank ground to suit the rods with the clevite bearings ?

It hasn't been done yet but yes it will be.

All the measuring etc.. is being done by jack bros in Brisbane, they have built rb30 bottom ends before with these type of rods. Pretty much every work shop in se qld (Sub zero, TOCA, Redcliffe dyno and a few porsche cup racers etc..) have recommended them for the measuring side of things. :D

Speak to your tuner. He may be clued in how to do a bit of math and work out exactly what needs to be done to get a fairly close afr for the initial start with the larger injectors.

I haven't decided who i'm going with on the tuning side of things.

I've heard plenty of good things about several tuners on the gold coast but i havnet seen the results with my eyes yet. Would prefer someone with powerfc experience.

This is something I want to choose wisely.

He may be clued in how to do a bit of math and work out exactly what needs to be done to get a fairly close afr for the initial start with the larger injectors.

I don't mind using the stock injectors till the power tune is done, i'd rather play it safe.

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