Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

For the price fo $1400 just for the Greddy plenum, you can save that and buy an rb26 head like i'm doing.

The rb26 heads also flow better.

Thats also my thinking. Its not so much they flow better its the better factory cams + the added bonus of the solid followers = higher ramp rate. higher lift for a given duration.

Providing you can pick up a rb26 head and manifolds for a reasonable price.

Edited by Cubes

Every 6 months i end up in the same position...I want the thing to look completely std, heat shields and all. So what is so difficult about getting a few offset braces made wo that it goes behind the throttle body??? Does it clear the actual manifold.

Be great is someone could put a telescopic aeiral on their rocker cover and measure the height to the top of the plenum & top of throttle body. Then close the bonnet and measure the ehight to the underside of the bonnet. Liek to know the clearance to th eunderside of the bonnet as well:)

I've done a few measurements.

Just in front of the throttle body the plenum has 20mm with the motor lowered 13mm.

If you drop to your knees on the drivers side of the engine bay you will see where the cross over pipe is higher than the throttle body and plenum, it almost v's up a little, I had a good look at the cross over pipe, its not touching the under bonnet lining but must be damn close as it too sits 20mm higher than the plenum section where the strut brace would pass over.

The strut brace will no way fit over the throttle body and cross over pipe. I suspect one of those flat tubular style strut braces will fit providing it passes in front of the throttle body/cross over pipe.

All else fails you could always grab a r33 rb25 or rb26 stuffed bottom end (piston oil squirters a must for cast pistons that see track work), Rebuild that with cast pistons and throw a r32 rb25de head on it. That would look 100% stock.

Edited by Cubes

It really is a hard decision.

When purchasing my head I found a 26 head and inlet manifold for 2.5k.

The 25 head was $750 + $1100 for rebuilding and port/polishing.

I decided the 25 head rebuilt was a better option for reliability. I didn't want to try my luck with a second hand head even though it would have no doubt been fine.

I wonder which would flow better, a 25 head that has been ported polished, the suitable valve jobs, inlet valve deshroud, port match and 260duration exh. cam or a stock 26 head.

The reason for a 260 duration exhaust cam... From flow tests i've seen its the exhaust side of the rb that has issues. Not the inlet.

I could be wrong. Its only my observation.

Thats the thing, CUbes and myself were looking for the heads for our motors almost 3 years ago now...a lot has changed in that time for skylines. Especially prices for parts.

Saying you can buy GTR heads for $1500 now doesnt reflect the almost $3k price tag back then :P

The only difference between the two looms (being an r32 without vct) is the inlet air temp sensor addition.

After all all you need to do is route the existing loom plugs to the new rb26dett locations. Not too hard at all.

Edited by Cubes

Warning!!! ACL PRODUCT WARNING. Were supplied new race series forged ACL pistons, rings and bearings for an rb30/25 hybrid. Engine built buy a reputable engine builder and run in by ex Perkins engineering mechanic/tuner. Rattled from new and finally pulled it down at 2000Klms to discover massive wear on the drive side of the bore. Piston to bore clearances measured at 7 tho and within spec. ACL denied refund/replacement and rolled out these excuses in this order. 1. Detonation (cleared after hardness test) 2. Foreign substance in bore (brand new engine run in on dyno with standard air box and new filter) Cleared after excuse number three. 3. Over boosting causing rings to break down and cause abrasion on bore. (Stat decs signed by engine tuners stating run in boost set to max of 14psi). ACL now tell me that there FORGED race series pistons are only rated for 10PSI. This engine has a comp of 8.2:1. Standard engine runs 9:1 with cast factory pistons at around 9psi...do the math. Currently taking legal action. Any questions regarding this "race designed product" PLEASE contact me @ [email protected] .This is not a rant, but an opportunity for other people to learn from my experience.

post-1044-1129037615.jpg

ACL now tell me that there FORGED race series pistons are only rated for 10PSI

Theres a reason why they are rated at 10 PSI, they aint forged pistons!

I've been selling ACL parts for years and they are yet to make forged pistons. Someones been feeding you bs.

Alot of people take the RACE series brand to be forged when they are a better grade of cast.

Edited by retrotec

on a side note, i find it hilarious that a piston can be "rated" at 10psi.

does that mean the piston will be okay on a motor with 10psi, huge back pressure, poor camshaft design and 14:1 compression? or does that mean that the piston will be okay on a motor with 10psi from a blower, with no back pressure, a perfectly selected camshaft and 7:1 compression?

on a side note, i find it hilarious that a piston can be "rated" at 10psi.

does that mean the piston will be okay on a motor with 10psi, huge back pressure, poor camshaft design and 14:1 compression? or does that mean that the piston will be okay on a motor with 10psi from a blower, with no back pressure, a perfectly selected camshaft and 7:1 compression?

it's a bit like wankers who ask you about your car and their first question is "how much boost u running bro?" :blink:

But I think this guy is talking about the acl hyperlite series of pistons, I was considering them for my conversion, but my engine builder talked me out of them.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You know how your car rolled through a fence in your last jacking escapade? Scissor jacks increase the likely hood of that sort of thing happening immensely!
    • http://calfinn.com.au/product/1500kg-standard-trolley-jack-cj-2t-c/1500kg-standard-trolley-jack-cj-2t-c   I have this and fits under a S3 33 GTR with no issues. Purchased in 2009 and not one issue. It was $950 back then. Not cheap but something so important isn’t worth cheaping out on.
    • Just trying to get my head around this. At 5psi of boost, you turn on your wmi pump, and then you're using a 3000cc injector, to allow flow upto the actual engine, where you have your 6x200cc injectors and a 500cc injector. If the above is correct, what advantage are you obtaining by having the 3000cc injector blocking flow, is this just incase a line breaks between that injector and the motor you can stop flow immediately? Or are the 6x200cc and 500cc less injectors and just spray nozzle?
    • Welcome! New member myself, but I had an R33 back in 2002. Best advice I could give, based on my experience: if you're running the factory turbo, be very conservative with boost. I made the mistake of just fiddling around with the boost controller and cranking the boost for fun, and the end result was my intake pipes popping off frequently from the constant deluge of oil that was being blown into the recirc by the stressed-out turbo, which itself was siphoning oil from the engine and farting it out both sides of its centre bearing (or something to that effect). If I could do it all again, I would have gotten a new turbo and had a tune dialled in professionally and then just left it alone! Funny you mention the metal shavings in the gearbox, as I had the same thing - the probe plug (magnetic drain plug, essentially) would come out caked with shavings. At least it was doing its job. Not sure if that's just sacrificial wear and part of the deal, or if my gearbox was shagged, but I wasn't abusing it. Enjoy the R33 - they're a dying breed, and if they weren't $35k+ on CarSales in Queensland, I might have picked up one of those again, instead of the 370GT I own now (though I'm loving the 370GT, that big 3.7L V6 just hits different).
    • Howdy folks. I owned an R33 back in 2002, which was thoroughly beyond my capacity (financially speaking) to maintain/insure, so we parted ways in 2004. Fast forward 21 years (to literally yesterday, in fact) and I'm now the proud owner of a 2007 V36 370GT. I'm happily surprised by how much power the VQ37VHR makes, compared to the RB25DET, considering the latter is turbocharged. I had planned to add a turbo at some point but I'm on the fence about whether I'll even need it (though I do love the sudden onset of extra torque). Any other 370GT owners around the traps, I'd love to hear about your experiences with this car (good and bad).
×
×
  • Create New...