Jump to content
SAU Community

R33 Rb30 Conversion

JNR24

By JNR24,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

hefer81 Collaborator

hefer81

Posted
Posted
There's some guy on calaisturbo trying to flog off an N/A Rb25 head if people are looking, he only wants a few hundred dollars for it!

gday i am wondering what sort of prices engine machining cost to you guys when undertaking the rb30 conversion namely acid bath, bore, honing, decking, and grind and balance crank

  • Replies 7.2k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

Duncan
Duncan

Just thought I would bump this 20 year old thread because the Skid Factory have just posted up a video summarising a lot of the content, format might be more familiar for newer members

JNR24
JNR24

fyi guys, Well yesturday i picked up a RB30 for my conversion into my R33. I will be using my RB25DET head on the RB30 block. So i started stripping the motor down, pulled the crank, pistons, girdle

Cubes
Cubes

Here is all I have at the moment: http://www.geocities.com/r32_jjc/ Unless you are on broad band make sure you right click then save as. The file is around 120kb. If there is anything I have got w

Posted Images

drunkenmaster Community Regular

drunkenmaster

Posted
Posted

Quick simple question, didnt want to cramp this thread but wasnt sure where to ask:

Are these these RB25DET transmission supports suitable for the RB30 block?

DSC05700.jpg

If so, can I pull them off any RB30 powered car at the wreckers?

I seem to be missing them.

GTR-Ben Proficient

GTR-Ben

Posted
Posted
Quick simple question, didnt want to cramp this thread but wasnt sure where to ask:

Are these these RB25DET transmission supports suitable for the RB30 block?

DSC05700.jpg

If so, can I pull them off any RB30 powered car at the wreckers?

I seem to be missing them.

I think you will need to use the RB30 gearbox supports.

Cubes Grand Master

Cubes

Posted
Posted (edited)

The R32 RB20DET Transmission supports are suitable for the RB30 -> RB20DET/RB25DET gearbox.

Hows your little monster coming along Ben? :P

Bu5ter is running 272duration cams in his RB30DET, the same as you I believe?

Edited by Cubes
MarkE Collaborator

MarkE

Posted
Posted

I've noticed several people are running Mitsubishi TD06-20g's and pushing ~250RWKW+ on ~1 bar - what are the specs on these things like? Im guessing they are rather large?

Seeing as people are running as high as 270RWKW on internally stock RB25DETs, what are thoughts on similar power outputs on RB30DETs?

Im also curious as to the limits of an internally stock bottom-end.

Im looking at getting the head ported, I have some RB26 valve springs to go in, maybe some bigger cams, stock exhaust manifold (sandblasted/beadblasted?) and then a decent exhaust.

Turbo wise im thinking perhaps GT30R with .63 A/R?

Either that or spend the dollars on forged pistons and rods, and go a GT3540R with .82 A/R?

sky30 Mentor

sky30

Posted
Posted
I have a 0.82 GT3040R in my DET. Currently running only 9 - 10psi but this is reached at 2600rpm. It still feels like it's pulling well at 6000rpm. Excellent street turbo methinks :)

What RPM does it start to make boost?

I take it your running in the engine, but have you ran anymore boost than 10psi, im interested to know what RPM it can make 15psi, and 20psi at?

MonstaS4 Collaborator

MonstaS4

Posted
Posted

Starts to make boost somewhere around 1700rpm from memory.

Engine has been in and running for 12 months now. I've had a few teething problems though - internal fuel pump was shagged, some sort of restriction in the return line inside the tank (it's in a VL), cooler pipes popping off, too much oil fed to the head, cam timing out, lack of cash, etc......

so no i haven't ran anymore than 10psi through it. They are all sorted now, i just need to dyno it again.

Manifold is a stock RB20DET unit. I made an adapter which 1) serves to position the turbo in the stock position and 2) mounts the external 48mm ProGate. On the last dyno session this adapter got red hot and started spitting little flames off it. At the same time power dropped off and the engine temp went through the roof. I found that both cams were aboout 7 to degrees retarded! This was the result of my cam tensioner positioning.

StockyMcStock Proficient

StockyMcStock

Posted
Posted
I found that both cams were aboout 7 to degrees retarded! This was the result of my cam tensioner positioning.

stupid non-OEM belt setups! :)

what did you do wrong? i'm afraid mine will be a fair whack out too, you just can't tell with any degree of accuracy. the inlet cam appears spot on, but the exhaust cam looks a little advanced on mine, doesn't line up perfectly with the spot on the timing backing plate. might be a good idea to get an adjustable gear there i reckon.....

sky30 Mentor

sky30

Posted
Posted
Starts to make boost somewhere around 1700rpm from memory.

Engine has been in and running for 12 months now. I've had a few teething problems though - internal fuel pump was shagged, some sort of restriction in the return line inside the tank (it's in a VL), cooler pipes popping off, too much oil fed to the head, cam timing out, lack of cash, etc......

so no i haven't ran anymore than 10psi through it. They are all sorted now, i just need to dyno it again.

Manifold is a stock RB20DET unit. I made an adapter which 1) serves to position the turbo in the stock position and 2) mounts the external 48mm ProGate. On the last dyno session this adapter got red hot and started spitting little flames off it. At the same time power dropped off and the engine temp went through the roof. I found that both cams were aboout 7 to degrees retarded! This was the result of my cam tensioner positioning.

What trans you running in your car Auto/ Maanual??

How did you fix your cam timing?

StockyMcStock Proficient

StockyMcStock

Posted
Posted
I ran 2 adjustable tensioners... Adjustables new are so much cheaper than fixed.

so did i, but only because i had easy access to two from a few RB30 blocks i had lying around :blink:

when i get my manifold back off my mate, i'll bolt the plenum, turbo and manifold on and post some pics up for ya.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Predator1
      Tomei gasket

      By Predator1 · Posted

      Didnt realise RB's had more then 1 head.
    • MBS206
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By MBS206 · Posted

      I'm normally copping my own abuse from neglecting my daily drivers. "Those suspension bushes will last a bit more", "Don't worry about the oil leak, just keep topping it up". The project cars I'm always doing things slowly on them as I'm wanting them to be done better, and neater, and nicer. Luckily I don't have to deal with 18 year old Matt's "Learning to wire" stuff in the project cars. And there's only one piece of wiring I'm displeased about in the Landcruiser, and it's about to be cut out... However, the box loads of parts that have been going through this place lately for the Landcruiser... Brake pads Brake Rotors Full handbrake overhaul Wheel Bearings Seals Swivel hubs Steering Boxes Half the suspension joints Shocks Air bags (Ones to go in the rear springs for towing) Water pump Timing kit Lower timing case Harmonic Balancer Radiator Lots of other little seals and shits Gas struts for the bonnet New power window switches And god knows what else I've forgotten... Ha ha ha I have my fingers crossed the pinion seals don't start leaking on the diffs, that the transfer case doesn't leak, and the gearbox input shaft doesn't leak, nor the rear main seal. As they're about the only seals I haven't replaced in the driveline! I'm seriously eyeing off buying new caliper rebuild kits front and rear brake calipers... I'll probably recheck all the valve clearances soon too, and hopefully, it should be all good and sweet to haul some long distance trips again!
    • GTSBoy
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Every time I pull my 3x gauges out of the console and see the crack-addict way that I did the wiring, and I just can't bring myself to tear it all apart and "make it nice", because it is currently working. In fact, the last time I was in there I probably made it worse.
    • Kinkstaah
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      The best part is when you own the car long enough that you look back and find your OWN ham fisted amateur shit!
    • MBS206
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By MBS206 · Posted

      The annoying part about neglect, is when you start to replace one thing, and find ten more broken things. Ham fisted monkey repairs you normally only find out about when trying to do something unrelated! Ha ha   Neglect you can kind of anticipate the huge costs to fix it all. Ham fistedness is normally a shock the first time your work on a new old car, as everything "looked" good before.
×
×
  • Create New...