Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I forget now which was which, one of them didn't require welding as its a plate sort of engine mount, there's enough room on that one to simply redrill the holes. I used a little bit of copper behind the old holes and filled them in, ground them flat and paint. :)

The other mount, the flat plate part that bolts to the engine needs to be removed, then simply slid down a little chopped and rewelded.

Both Bl4ck32's and mine where 100% done the same.

I didn't take any pics as the motor was hanging there waiting for the engine mounts, I was too keen to bolt her in. :D

Edited by Cubes
I forget now which was which, one of them didn't require welding as its a plate sort of engine mount, there's enough room on that one to simply redrill the holes. I used a little bit of copper behind the old holes and filled them in, ground them flat and paint. :(

The other mount, the flat plate part that bolts to the engine needs to be removed, then simply slid down a little chopped and rewelded.

Both Bl4ck32's and mine where 100% done the same.

I didn't take any pics as the motor was hanging there waiting for the engine mounts, I was too keen to bolt her in. :P

I can see now, the one on the driver's side has enough meat to redrill the holes but on the passenger side it doesn't!

Sky30,

How many more kays have you racked up since you dropped the motor in with its 270,000km's? :(

26GTS,

Have another read of the guide, on page 6 there is a few notes on engine mounts.

It states....

The RB30DET block is approximately 38mm taller than any of the other RB blocks.

This causes a few fouling issues with the bonnet when used with the high Rb25 stock inlet manifold/plenum.

The Rb26 inlet manifold/plenum doesn't have these issues as it sits much lower.

If you want to run the stock rb25 inlet manifold/plenum you will have to lower the engine by 15mm on the drivers side and 12mm on the passengers side.

You will then be required to remove the lower lip of the radiators shroud otherwies the fan will much it up.

Cubes,

do you know if it's the same deal for series 1 R33 gts-t

using RB25DET head and RB30 block

,is there any difference between turbo and non-turbo RB30 blocks

Regards

conan

r33's can run their own inlet system, due to them being the same port size as the rb25de head. They still need to be lowered, but you can make a lowering plate instead of redrilling the mounts.

Most of these q's can be answered by simply looking at your motor, and the new one going in....

Difference between non-turbo and turbo blocks have been answered b4. They are they same block in the series 2 motor.

r33's can run their own inlet system, due to them being the same port size as the rb25de head. They still need to be lowered, but you can make a lowering plate instead of redrilling the mounts.

Most of these q's can be answered by simply looking at your motor, and the new one going in....

Difference between non-turbo and turbo blocks have been answered b4. They are they same block in the series 2 motor.

bl4ck32,

Am I still up for a new top half plenum , one that's not as high ,or can strut brace be modified?

Might be pushing the budget a bit now.

Regards.

the rb25de top half of the plenum is different to the rb20det one. The AAC valve is different, but the ports are the same between the two.

I used my rb20det top half as it bolts up, and retains the std AAC valve.

Simply use your std inlet (r33?), and modify the strut brace. I am doing the exact same thing this week to make my strut brace clear the throttle body. Simply making new ends where it bolts to the strut tower to offset the bar....

Edited by Bl4cK32

ok, height issue sorted , thx.

If I don't need a plenum then I'd like to consider cams.

This is it so far..

Engine is going together today for the first time.

R33 gts-t series 1 head onto RB30DE block.

Car already has,

Haltech ignition & E6K ECU, 500 hp fuel pump& regulator,surge tank

Series 2 gearbox, full size front mount intercooler , cold air box& unifilter

1200 kg clutch ,machined flywheel

Blitz Dual SBC boost controller

Hitachi T03-T04 turbo + 500 hp ball bearing core

HKS 3" exhaust + 4 1/2 " tip

Previous best was 247 rwkw on 12psi but had more and went better at 18 !

Now going for forged CP pistons 8.3.1 cr ,and

REV rods together balanced within .25 g

Chrone forged rings

New bearings, main studs

N1 oil pump and N1 water pump

Block fully dipped and prepped from scratch

Head work

Keeping stock springs and lifters but considering Tomei 256deg Poncams.

How much of a difference do you think the cams will make to this, considering another $1200 - $1400 for them.

Or are there better ones for max improvement before street driveability goes down.

Several opinions would be appreciated !

Regards

Edited by conan7772
But Where the mount bolts to the block it has 4 bolts either side connecting the bracket to the block!

Is it just one hole that needs redrilling on each mount, i'm thinking its where the bracket goes to the mount? Do you know if when shaun did it he welded the holes up then redrilled them?

I welded up all 4 holes in the mounts, ground them back and re-drilled new holes. On one of the mounts there is no room for the lower hole so you need to cut this part, flatten it, then drill the hole. I also added some Gusseting for strength around this part.

Edited by sky30
How much of a difference do you think the cams will make to this, considering another $1200 - $1400 for them.

Or are there better ones for max improvement before street driveability goes down.

Several opinions would be appreciated !

i'd change that turbo a long time before i changed the cams. if you want to save some money, get a set of GTR cams and have the profiles changed to suit the hydraulic followers, Tighe cams up here in QLD can do that for you faily cheaply.

i'd change that turbo a long time before i changed the cams. if you want to save some money, get a set of GTR cams and have the profiles changed to suit the hydraulic followers, Tighe cams up here in QLD can do that for you faily cheaply.

You think so, I believe it's a high flow T03 , can produce 32 psi but loses spark at 22.

I would've thought it could work better with the new engine.

Want to achieve around 320rwkw.

Also safer to run in the new engine with the smaller turbo.

Will want to upgrade later though $$$

Edited by conan7772
i'd change that turbo a long time before i changed the cams. if you want to save some money, get a set of GTR cams and have the profiles changed to suit the hydraulic followers, Tighe cams up here in QLD can do that for you faily cheaply.

You got a contact number,

and thanks..

The R32 RB20DET Transmission supports are suitable for the RB30  -> RB20DET/RB25DET gearbox.

Hows your little monster coming along Ben? :P

Bu5ter is running 272duration cams in his RB30DET, the same as you I believe?

I got rid of my RB26DETT box setup.. (crossmember was not going to be tidy like I wanted) and I have a RB25DET box in the car now.

It's all running. I havn't plumbed my AFM up correctly yet (running 1 AFM in a double sized pipe with 2 outputs to the ECU).

With an AFM just sitting by the turbo, no tuning and no cold idle or idle adjustment parts... it sits there idleing at 800RPM :P

Sounds awesome!

I don't recall my cam specs :(

They are a minor upgrade over stock, like a stage 1.

I have all the data on them beside me.. but I don't understand it at all.

Two pages about the lift, durations etc..

Edited by GTR-Ben
ivan tighe engineering - it's in the phone book.

the turbo may be capable of producing xx amount of boost, but it simply runs out of airflow. if you want 320rwkw i'd go a GT35/40 1.06 rear or better still, a GT40 1.00 rear or so.

thanks for your advice mate, I'm gonna take it.

GT40 & cams to come later after run in.

Do you know if the GT40 can stay as a low mount ?

Don't particularly want the expense of a full kit!

Still unsure which cams though.

Regards.

Edited by conan7772

you certainly could low mount it, but it'd need a custom manifold. i have a GT40 1.34 rear and this is how big it is:

DSC00179.jpg

DSCF0137.jpg

as you can see there's not a lot of chance of putting that anywhere near a standard manifold. it would be reasonably easy to do a low-mount tubular manifold and keep it so that the returning cooler pipe still made it over the top however.

the GT40 will make the power more easily (less boost) but your bottom-end power might suffer a bit. having said that, with good cams and good tuning there's no reason an RB30DET can't have brilliant off-boost response. it would build boost pretty quickly no matter what turbo is on it IMHO (within reason - GT60 GTFO)

the 35/40 1.06 rear would be a brilliant match, you'd have to push it pretty hard to get 320rwkw though.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I came here to note that is a zener diode too base on the info there. Based on that, I'd also be suspicious that replacing it, and it's likely to do the same. A lot of use cases will see it used as either voltage protection, or to create a cheap but relatively stable fixed voltage supply. That would mean it has seen more voltage than it should, and has gone into voltage melt down. If there is something else in the circuit dumping out higher than it should voltages, that needs to be found too. It's quite likely they're trying to use the Zener to limit the voltage that is hitting through to the transistor beside it, so what ever goes to the zener is likely a signal, and they're using the transistor in that circuit to amplify it. Especially as it seems they've also got a capacitor across the zener. Looks like there is meant to be something "noisy" to that zener, and what ever it was, had a melt down. Looking at that picture, it also looks like there's some solder joints that really need redoing, and it might be worth having the whole board properly inspected.  Unfortunately, without being able to stick a multimeter on it, and start tracing it all out, I'm pretty much at a loss now to help. I don't even believe I have a climate control board from an R33 around here to pull apart and see if any of the circuit appears similar to give some ideas.
    • Nah - but you won't find anything on dismantling the seats in any such thing anyway.
    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
    • You don't have an R34 service manual for the body do you? Have found plenty for the engine and drivetrain but nothing else
×
×
  • Create New...