Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok.. I have a serious question...

What kind of things should I be looking at if I want to get a motor built to cope with 25+ psi?

RB26 top end, RB30 bottom end...

Maybe get some shares in Garrett or HKS.

You'll be going through turbos quick enough. :P

I live in Sydney.

I drive around with the doors locked and windows up.

if someone asks me a question about my car, I take one of 2 options.

1.) 6000rpm, side step clutch, get the fcuk out of there.

2.) get out of car with clublock and beat them till they can't remember who or where they are. and therefore my car is safe as they will not remember the conversation.

What if it's a hot lookin bird..

That's the problem with coupes,

the back seat is f"n useless.

Might convert my GTS-T into a panelvan one day.

Bitches in the front, bitches in the back...

What if it's a hot lookin bird..

That's the problem with coupes,

the back seat is f"n useless.

Might convert my GTS-T into a panelvan one day.

Bitches in the front, bitches in the back...

if it's a hot looking bird, I take the 6000rpm get away option.

if the wife finds out, there'll be more than the car to lose.

:lol:

coupes blow.

get a 4 door.

B)

hey guys. im building an rb30de. and i bought a rb20det gearbox thinking that it would bolt right in and use the same speedo drive and keep the same speedo reading cus the gearbox numbers are the same.

its to go in to an r33 with a rb20e. and i just found out yesterday that the rb20det box is mechanical drive for the speedo and the r33 is electrical drive. is there anything that i can do to make this work my speedo? or will it all just plug in? i havnt taken the motor out yet. i just want to have souluitions to any problems i may have.

thanks,

geoff

hey guys. im building an rb30de. and i bought a rb20det gearbox thinking that it would bolt right in and use the same speedo drive and keep the same speedo reading cus the gearbox numbers are the same.

its to go in to an r33 with a rb20e. and i just found out yesterday that the rb20det box is mechanical drive for the speedo and the r33 is electrical drive. is there anything that i can do to make this work my speedo? or will it all just plug in? i havnt taken the motor out yet. i just want to have souluitions to any problems i may have.

thanks,

geoff

This is an RB30 engine thread, and you are asking a gearbox question. :)

Oh OK, you use the top (electronics) half of the the R33 speedo drive with the bottom (mechanical) half of the RB20DET drive so it fits in the gearbox. Do a search for the R32 speedo drive in an RB25DET gearbox, the thread has pictures. You are basically just doing the reverse.

:P cheers :(

Edited by Sydneykid

it still has something to do with rb30.. the title is r33 rb30 conversion.. so it is related to me. it was mainly just to get a quick and definatant answer

thanks sydneykid :(. iv heard alot of great stuff about you and your advice is always great :)

Fantastic thread guys keep it up.

You've given me the confidence to take the plunge and just collected my donor RB25de today.and I'm on the hunt for a rb30e bottom end as we speak.

So I'm going for the rb25 de head rather than the GTR jobbie.

IT's from a 93 Laurel so I was wondering if it would have the same cams as the r32 or r33? the body is e-gc34 so which would it be as I'd prefer to use the cams from the r33 as the tommei list in the rb30_dohc.pdf(which is excellent by the way) show that these have the largest lift and curation of the standard cams.

Can I use the injectors from the RB25de and afm or will I need det ones as I couldn't find a flow rate for the 25de injector listed (If there is apologies but the whole thread is alot to retain)

I'm going for a mild tune only at the mo untill the whole thing has run in for a couple of thousand K then go for a R32 GTR twin turbo set-up.

I'm still learning the turbo side of things at present so I'm hoping this will do the job for me. Are the twin turbos from a standard GTR the ceramic coated ones and are these good enough for a target of around 400bhp (I'm not greedy and the car this is going into is no spring chicken)

Also I noticed today that the 7 second gdz1la GTR skyline here in NZ has the the cambelt tensioners oposite as per the rb30 block without moving the tensioners. Is the N1 spec block like that?

hi, on the engine mounts for the rb30. im using the r33 rb25de intake pleninum. i just want to confirm what i need to do to make the motor clear my bonnet as i think its going to be a close fit.

do i use rb25de engine mounts? and lower it by how much on each side? will i get to keep my strut brace? or is it easyer to just redesign it to fit? i did a search but i keep getting differnt answers.

Can I use the injectors from the RB25de and afm or will I need det ones as I couldn't find a flow rate for the 25de injector listed (If there is apologies but the whole thread is alot to retain)

RB25DE injectors are only 270 cc = 324 max hp (flywheel)

RB25DET are 370 cc = 444 max hp

guide only

I reckon if you're gonna build this engine it's worth aiming for 520 hp or 300rwkw.

It seems 480cc's or 550 cc's are the go.

High flowed or "re-manufactured injectors" are not recommended due to idle problems.

You need a late model engine management system that is capable of controlling full sequencial injection to overcome this.

I have a Haltech E6K which only supports group or semi-sequencial firing.

Good luck.

Edited by conan7772
hi, on the engine mounts for the rb30. im using the r33 rb25de intake pleninum. i just want to confirm what i need to do to make the motor clear my bonnet as i think its going to be a close fit.

do i use rb25de engine mounts? and lower it by how much on each side? will i get to keep my strut brace? or is it easyer to just redesign it to fit? i did a search but i keep getting differnt answers.

You read the DIY RB30 PDF at www.geocities.com/r32_jjc/ ?

These measurements were accurate for us.

Just had to squash down a little the induction and fuel regulator.

Straight strut brace can't clear. Need the Greddy plenum or a new triangulated brace. Can't feel any difference in the front end without to be honest.

We sliced off the back plate on the main mount that lacks meat, continuously welded all round each web a new 10mm plate.

Then, lowered the engine in to mark the holes.

Edited by conan7772
You read the DIY RB30 PDF at www.geocities.com/r32_jjc/ ?

These measurements were accurate for us.

Just had to squash down a little the induction and fuel regulator.

Strut brace cleared.

We sliced off the back plate on the main mount that lacks meat, continuously welded all round each web a new 10mm plate.

Then, lowered the engine in to mark the holes.

sweet as. cheers. do you have any pics of what you did?

woops i had passed over those on the pdf file. so 15mm on drivers and 12mm on passangers

how do you relieve the gearbox and center bearing mount as its suggested in the pdf.

cheers

sweet as. cheers. do you have any pics of what you did?

woops i had passed over those on the pdf file. so 15mm on drivers and 12mm on passangers

how do you relieve the gearbox and center bearing mount as its suggested in the pdf.

cheers

Sorry, don't know about the other mounts.

Edited by conan7772

Hi all,

Just was interested in what you all think about stickying a rb30 det turbo upgrade thread????

Thought it would be good to see some results posted up in a sticky section as this thread is way too long now to go through.

It'd be really interesting to see what power levels these rb30's are making!

Cheers

Hi all,

Just was interested in what you all think about stickying a rb30 det turbo upgrade thread????

Thought it would be good to see some results posted up in a sticky section as this thread is way too long now to go through.

It'd be really interesting to see what power levels these rb30's are making!

Cheers

sounds good to me!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...