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No, I'm running the R32 RB25DE head so that everything simply bolts up and looks stock.

So how'd you get the GTR top feed injectors in,

or are the side feed purely R33

Edited by conan7772

Gotta say,

Before I did this engine rebuild, whilst the car was going great, I always had plans to achieve good hp.

But I first wanted the car to stop well.

Being the R33 GST-t, believe it or not, it actually has the worst brakes than all the other models.

Don't know why this is the case, but it's true.

So Tweakit at Mona Vale fitted an oversized Brembo GTR kit on for me with probably 2mm between the spokes and the calipers, + Green stuff pads.

Having the GTS-t a little lighter than the GTR less more with a light-weight bodykit with these brakes is sensational.

But I still think the ABS is too heavy, meaning the braking could be better.

I wonder if this is programmable or adjustable.

Brakes are fine with a set of good pads on street tyres.

Should I go semi's and hit the track then I may require a set of R33 or R34 brakes to ease pedal effort.

Bushes are well overdue as is a new diff so they are first. :)

Well don't bother with R33 GTS-t brakes.They'll be worse than what you have now.

I picked up a used full set of R33 GTR Brembos for $1700.

Anyway, enough of that, this is an engine thread.

The R33 brakes are fine, they are the same as the R32 brakes but spaced slightly furthur away from the hub as to fit a larger disk under them.

Exactly the same as the gtr 4pots and even R34 brakes.

I suspect you either had extremely dirty brake lines (as i did when I received my car) or you were running crap pads. The R33 brakes are quite good. :)

Bl4ck32 runs the R33 GTST/R32 GTR brakes on the front of his, they area clearly superior and offer better pedal feel than my brakes. Its obvious really.. A larger disk requires less pressure to slow down.

The R33 brakes are fine, they are the same as the R32 brakes but spaced slightly furthur away from the hub as to fit a larger disk under them.

Exactly the same as the gtr 4pots and even R34 brakes.

I suspect you either had extremely dirty brake lines (as i did when I received my car) or you were running crap pads. The R33 brakes are quite good. :)

Bl4ck32 runs the R33 GTST/R32 GTR brakes on the front of his, they area clearly superior and offer better pedal feel than my brakes. Its obvious really.. A larger disk requires less pressure to slow down.

HELLO!!! start a brakes thread...

yeaH gud 1 cubes....lol... um qtn. im sorta half way thru building my 3liter, and am doing some head work. ive had it ported nearly to the water jackets, new valves re seated, and am after some spring/lifter/cam info. any suggestions for some serious revs? solid lifter, wat springs, wat cams???

If you want reliable high rev's do not skimp on the crank oil pump drive collar and aftermarket balancer. The aftermarket balancers are expensive but its the only way an rb30 will hold together. BUT.. that depends on what you consider to be high rpm. Over 7000rpm in my book is high rpm.

Look at any serious high rpm rb26, they also steer away from the std balancer.

Springs will depend on the cams.

i still can't really see any point to using forged pistons in a street car. but each to their own, the extra $600 or so for the build might help you sleep at night anyway, if so it's money well spent i reckon.

we'll see how long my casties last and what power i put down with them reliably anyway, might help some people see the light :(

p.s. had my first run with a fastish car on the weekend - "200rwkw" 180sx down the gold coast. anyway murdered him through 2nd and 3rd - even with the laggiest turbo known to man. i really need a tune too.

Someone correct me if im wrong here but i dont think there is such a thing as a true chromemoly (chromemolybdenum) ring. If there is i imagine it would be HELL expensive. Cause i know in pipe its very very exxy.

My understanding is that there are grey cast iron rings/ductile iron rings and steel rings. However the rings can have certain coatings or heat treatment which improves their base characteristics. Ive heard of rings being coated with chromium or molybdenum to help improve their wear rate, tensile and fatigue strengths. One problem ive heard of with coated rings is they can flake off in extreme conditions. Gas nitriding is one form of heat treatment that is done to steel rings to improve all their stats. I believe that they are the best thats available on a common performance level which most of us are on.

I know acl piston rings have a gas nitrided steel top compression ring. Generally any performance ring set would be good enough for turbocharged engines. But ive heard from numerous people that the best rings are the nissan std ring set which i think would be steel nitrided top ring and prob ductile iron 2nd.

Alot of japanese cars especially turbocharged come std with nitrided steel rings...good to know.

Why not do the job right and use the RB30DET piston from CP?Other RB pistons have the wrong pin height making them a very dodgy option.

interesting post and im quite interested after comparing the 2 pistons on the acl site.

http://www.aclperformance.com.au/NissanRB3...rgedPistons.htm RB30

http://www.aclperformance.com.au/NissanRB2...rgedPistons.htm RB25

in the previous page its mentioned that some height needs to be taken off the rb30 block for the 25 pistons to work. how does that affect compression ratio's in general and how much needs to be taken off. looking at the heights there you would assume .7mm. is that correct?

im trying to keep to acl pistons as im told by the distributor that they are made by ross and i can get them for cost (pistons + rings are around 600bucks). as i want to go for 350kws atw i think its probably a better idea early on considering the cost vs forgies and replacements and the fact my block needs to be bored already.

Edited by SirRacer
in the previous page its mentioned that some height needs to be taken off the rb30 block for the 25 pistons to work. how does that affect compression ratio's in general and how much needs to be taken off. looking at the heights there you would assume .7mm. is that correct?

The rb30's run a pin height of 1.260.

The wiseco RB25's run a pin height of 1.240. (ACL RB25's run a pin height of 1.233 = 0.027" off the block)

With a lesser pin height the piston sits lower in the bore, so to achieve the same compression ratio as a piston that sits 0.020" higher in the bore you are required to pull 0.020" off the block.

Before you grab pistons dummy assemble it up and take a few measurements to see what pistons with what specs will achieve what ratio.

The rb30's run a pin height of 1.260.

The wiseco RB25's run a pin height of 1.240. (ACL RB25's run a pin height of 1.233 = 0.027" off the block)

With a lesser pin height the piston sits lower in the bore, so to achieve the same compression ratio as a piston that sits 0.020" higher in the bore you are required to pull 0.020" off the block.

Before you grab pistons dummy assemble it up and take a few measurements to see what pistons with what specs will achieve what ratio.

how do i work this out and is the squench (sorry dont know the exact name) an issue with mixing and matching pistons?

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