Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

The car must pass an emissions test, he did say there wouldn't be issues if it ran on the std ecu as airflow is relative.

What sort of emissions test though, if it's the $3000.00 mitsubish plant one, bugger that. :laugh: You interstate guys would be okay though I'd say if thats all it needs.

New nissan blocks come blank, so transferring numbers on nissan motors is legal.

Your more likely to get defected over the custom inlet manifold, and bodykit sitting too low....

yeah that's why im not going to buy it. to much trouble, and it will be megga cop bait

My car finally idles properly THANKS CUBES! Joel came over and gave me a handle for a couple of hours great bloke! Found out that my AAC valve was totally stuffed from the sand blasting, was completely full of sand, no wonder it wasnt working :D. Now she idles perfectly i just have to wear her in and then she'll be ready for a dyno tune ;) .

she'd be right mate, thats the fully sick port and polish with grit isnt it?? :dry: Hes just taken the joke a little bit too literally without even realising it. haha.

'

But yeh obviously were hoping no sand in anywhere else.

On a side note, i got the jun collar fitted to the crank by the machinist, and i fitted the water pump and oil pump and put the new tensioner on the block. The new motor is coming together very nicely.

Edited by r33_racer
she'd be right mate, thats the fully sick port and polish with grit isnt it?? :yes: Hes just taken the joke a little bit too literally without even realising it. haha.

'

But yeh obviously were hoping no sand in anywhere else.

On a side note, i got the jun collar fitted to the crank by the machinist, and i fitted the water pump and oil pump and put the new tensioner on the block. The new motor is coming together very nicely.

LOL well she runs fine and goes well, maybe she did get a port and polish and a slight hone hahaha :( , its called FOOLBOOSTS 1 second motor wear in method! :woot:

My car finally idles properly THANKS CUBES! Joel came over and gave me a handle for a couple of hours great bloke! Found out that my AAC valve was totally stuffed from the sand blasting, was completely full of sand, no wonder it wasnt working :(. Now she idles perfectly i just have to wear her in and then she'll be ready for a dyno tune :woot: .

Think Joel's going to have to start charging for his time soon, hehe! He was a great help with getting my baby going and probably couldn't have done it without him!

Can't wait to see your results foolboost, we'll have to have an r32 rb30 get together i reckon with all these rb30's in 32's here in Adelaide!

Mmmm, just had a thought about a special stand/group of r32 rb30's at small car sunday!

Mmmm, just had a thought about a special stand/group of r32 rb30's at small car sunday!

Yes we must have a get togther, i have the grinder in my hand as we speak :wave: poor bonnet...

haha, the things we have to do!

I found with measurements the closest point was the front of the plenum then as it moves back the clearance increases a little.. But not by much as a simple throttle body hose clamp sitting up will touch the bonnet underlay or what ever it is. :D

Get to it FOOLBOOST.. You have another plenum there should you go through it. :S

I found with measurements the closest point was the front of the plenum then as it moves back the clearance increases a little.. But not by much as a simple throttle body hose clamp sitting up will touch the bonnet underlay or what ever it is. :D

Get to it FOOLBOOST.. You have another plenum there should you go through it. :S

ahh right ...

friend is going through the build for an R33, just trying to work out the clearances etc see if there is a way around the mod to the engine mounts or front facing plenum ..

cheers

Just blocked off the front feed with a brass bung and put the tomei restrictor in the back. I know the guide said 1mm feed, but the ones we machined up with the 1mm hole were too sloppy and didnt have anymore time to stuff around making another one. Eitherway its gotta help, especially with the rear welsh plug gone and a line down to the sump.

On another note, the high energy sumps are nice. Nice work, very simple in design, im kicking myself now cause my idea for the old sump was very similiar to what the high energy one is:( But its a good setup, next to only a dry sump system id say.

Build so far includes,

RB30 S2 block, 20thou oversize for CP pistons, Scat I beam rods, RB25DET VVT Head has been port and polished, tomei 256 8.5mm cams, N1 oil pump, JUN collar, R33 S2 Water pump, Greddy plenum, q45TB, S/S manifold with a gt35r with .82 housing. Heap of other stuff. Ill get some pics when its done tomorrow night or sat. Should look good when its all done. Were hoping for around 450hp at the rears.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey all  im wondering if you can help me please I have put a rb20 box in my r34 gtt as my auto packed up and a friend had a spare box I know it’s not ideal but it will get me up and running for now. we have done the conversation and everything is working great but my Speedo we got a s13 speed sensor but my Speedo reads double now and I bought a speed converter but still not having any luck.  so I thought I’ll reach out and pick your brains  any help would be appreciated please as I wanna drive my car again 
    • Drain it. I got official Matic D but you can get whatever is listed as Matic D compatible.
    • Thanks guys,  Yeah I should at least have them dynoed, at least then I know what I've got as a starting point.  The springs on these are hard as rocks. I vaguely remember Russman saying he was going to sell the shocks to me with the rocks fitted, as he was keeping the softer springs for his new setup.  I didn't click at the time but of course that was to let me know the shock/spring wouldn't be matched.  I also remember pricing up new springs around 2014-15, but, house, money etc. it never happened. So that was another reason to have them rebuilt. I have rebuilt the forks on many motorcycles so I think I could handle the seals on these easily enough, but getting the valving right would be a rabbit hole I cbf exploring.  Duncan, interesting to hear RP was tuning these back then. I might give them a call.  In the mean time I have been busy fitting sway bars. The Whiteline rear sway bar I purchased 15 years ago finally got fitted, along with the Whiteline front bar that showed up last week. Just waiting on new links for the front sway bar to finish that off.  And my spare set of advan AVS VS5's should be back from the powder coaters in a Pearl White finish sometime this week, with a set of Hankook RS4's lined up for fitting.  And then I just have all the suspension bushes to do. A comprehensive kit is on the way... Lots to do before the Ararat hill climb. Cheers guys 🍻   
    • Nice car! I’m glad folks in the US have gotten past the FnF and are buying real cool cars like the 260RS I was with a bunch of mates in Portland about a year ago and spotted a green Stagea (just a regular 2.5T AWD) parked about 2 blocks away and they were like “a what?” So I made a bet with them for a round of beers and said “ok one of you run down there and tell me if the steering wheel is on the correct side” 5 mins later the American comes trudging back up the hill and goes “he’s right guys. Ok what beer do you want?”
    • Should replace OR drop the tank, give it's good clean. Might be worth replacing that entire fuel level/pump/cradle thing with this: https://frenchysperformancegarage.com/products/fpg-s13-180sx-r32gtst-single-pump-hanger-kit-billet-hat-6-v3-fpg-089?gQT=2  
×
×
  • Create New...