Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

It came from japan and is a jun plenum, bigger then greddy etc, needs a bit of work on the inside of the tb flange needs a clean up, also the runners and i need to take the ports out to suit my head as they are for an rb20det and my r32 rb25de ports on my head are much bigger, all up cost was $1400 for plenum and 800cc sard twin spray injectors, not bad eh :huh:

that plenum is a Jun knock off, and it's can be found on Ebay (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=140022973792). please don't mistaken with the real Jum intake. these are very horrible, look inside the ports:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...st&id=54165

Edited by @irborne
that plenum is a Jun knock off, and it's can be found on Ebay (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=140022973792). please don't mistaken with the real Jum intake. these are very horrible, look inside the ports:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...st&id=54165

Interesting think ill be making a phone call, yes i didnt think a genuine manifold would be left unfinished, but not to worry im taking the step out and the rough slag on the inside of the tb, wouldnt want that going into the motor!

ok guys some good enlightening info thanx,

1. so no one can say theyre are ne reliability issues with the 30, so basically you guys are saying the 30 is just as reliable as the 25 as long as youve done precautions such as good tuning and strengthened internals.

2. how bout comparing both engines in their factory form.. would they have the exact strength fundamentally?

3. i guess u can buy a crank collar from any good jap distributer, anyone selling one, what they worth??

also bought the bottom end rebuild kit today, should be sending the block away for acid bath, decking ect by friday, just waiting for cash for rods and pistons.

btw the builders really credible, its applied engineering in welshpool perth. i guess he might not know his rb30s well, or just really picky!

i think i might go ahead with it, and yee see what happens... you never never know, if never never go!

Suggestions follow;

1. Tuning, tuning and knowing the limits and not exceeding them

2. Similar strength, but a 3 litre will make the same power at 20% lower RPM.

3. Around $150 from ProEngines (ACT), they are on this forum

:D cheers :D

I remember Gary saying that the trouble with three litres is breathing through ports and valves intended for 2.5-2.6 litres . If so how much larger would the valves need to be and whats available that would fit ?

Cheers A .

The RB26 inlet flow is pretty good, but the exhaust is a little bit less than ideal in proportion. So any work done on the inlet needs to be exceeded by improvements on the exhaust. Generally speaking carefully porting the inlet with a triple cut on the valve seats is sufficient. The exhaust needs the same, plus it could do with 1 mm larger valves if you are aiming for power in excess of 850 bhp.

If your power target is under that (as most people’s is), then you simply need to know what you are doing as far as porting is concerned and then balance the results on the flow bench accordingly.

:D cheers :D

Head studs for what head?

202-4207 is for GTR which is an ARP2000 stud, slighty stronger than others and a bit dearer too. This part number is the official ARP part.

202-4301 will suit RB20 and RB25 motors.

That 202-5215 isn't listed in their catalog.

I've flicked over the first 50 pages of this thread in the past 2hrs but now im just completely confused. I have a damaged 1994 R32 GTR RB26DETT with 81,000km completely internally standard running very nicely (324awkw @ 20psi running rich) just with Tomei Cams and 2530's. My block needs replacing due to a shattered bellhousing which ruined the bolt threads so I need to replace the block regardless.

I can get a bored/honed Rb26 block for around $500, forged pistons, cyo'd rods, new oil and water pump and bolt it all back up.

The other option would be the 26/30 combo but im unsure exactly what I need to get/do to make it all work. My target is 400awkw (mainly drag with some circuit fun) obviously it won't be run at 400kw all day everyday just on those special occassions (its a weekend car anyway). The idea of more torque and less boost appeals to me.

I have zero mechanical skills and knowledge so basically want a list of what I need to do so I can work out which path to take.

I've flicked over the first 50 pages of this thread in the past 2hrs but now im just completely confused. I have a damaged 1994 R32 GTR RB26DETT with 81,000km completely internally standard running very nicely (324awkw @ 20psi running rich) just with Tomei Cams and 2530's. My block needs replacing due to a shattered bellhousing which ruined the bolt threads so I need to replace the block regardless.

I can get a bored/honed Rb26 block for around $500, forged pistons, cyo'd rods, new oil and water pump and bolt it all back up.

The other option would be the 26/30 combo but im unsure exactly what I need to get/do to make it all work. My target is 400awkw (mainly drag with some circuit fun) obviously it won't be run at 400kw all day everyday just on those special occassions (its a weekend car anyway). The idea of more torque and less boost appeals to me.

I have zero mechanical skills and knowledge so basically want a list of what I need to do so I can work out which path to take.

to see what's involved with 26/30 go here:

http://www.gtr.co.uk/forum/upload/showthre...ight=r32+combat

cheers

or conversely shanef is doing one for his 32 gtr. Perhaps he can clarify what he has done to his motor, as i think hes chasing some massive power lvl also. I believe his motor is done hes just waiting on that adapter plate.

Im also doing this, hoping for 475Rwkw, not to dissuade you, but if your not mechanically minded, it will be a very expensive exercise to pay someone to do the complete conversion.

depends on what work you get done will determine how much it'll cost.

for the basic conversion, thats supply rb30 bottom end, have rb26 head together, ud be looking at right on $1000 for someone to do it for you. With the head 'freshened up' and the exhaust port re-profiled, intake/exhaust manifolds match ported to the head, oil galleries modified (i quizzed the guy who built mine about running an external oil drain from the back of the head to the sump, he said it wasnt needed, and this is a circuit engine) oil restrictors tinkered with, all machining (boring/honing), balance everything, reset valve clearances, supply and fit new idler pulley & supply all bearings i got quoted $3900.

Then you need to get your pistons & rods, cams & cam gears, valvetrain goodies inregards to the cam choice so to do it "properly" you probably wont see change from $10k.

Oh and you need one of them sump adapter plates if your running it in AWD.

That's all i can think of at the moment, hope that helped :D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I came here to note that is a zener diode too base on the info there. Based on that, I'd also be suspicious that replacing it, and it's likely to do the same. A lot of use cases will see it used as either voltage protection, or to create a cheap but relatively stable fixed voltage supply. That would mean it has seen more voltage than it should, and has gone into voltage melt down. If there is something else in the circuit dumping out higher than it should voltages, that needs to be found too. It's quite likely they're trying to use the Zener to limit the voltage that is hitting through to the transistor beside it, so what ever goes to the zener is likely a signal, and they're using the transistor in that circuit to amplify it. Especially as it seems they've also got a capacitor across the zener. Looks like there is meant to be something "noisy" to that zener, and what ever it was, had a melt down. Looking at that picture, it also looks like there's some solder joints that really need redoing, and it might be worth having the whole board properly inspected.  Unfortunately, without being able to stick a multimeter on it, and start tracing it all out, I'm pretty much at a loss now to help. I don't even believe I have a climate control board from an R33 around here to pull apart and see if any of the circuit appears similar to give some ideas.
    • Nah - but you won't find anything on dismantling the seats in any such thing anyway.
    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
    • You don't have an R34 service manual for the body do you? Have found plenty for the engine and drivetrain but nothing else
×
×
  • Create New...