Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

We went CP flat top pistons. But its upto you what pistons you want, to achieve whatever CR. Our tuner wanted us to go with a lower cr, while others tend to go for the higher cr.

The view is the lower cr makes the car less responsive off boost, while the higher cr makes it more responsive. However depending on tuning the lower cr helps with less knock and allows more ignition advance and boost without the knock, while the higher cr helps with more low/midrange power but in alot of cases ends up with more knock....but it all comes down to the tuner in the end or so everyone says. Prob abit in it with fuel economy and other bits and pieces, but .5 difference is like either choosing to run rb26 cr or running rb25 cr...in the end its upto you cause its your engine your building.

But then again it depends on what application your building this motor for.

Edited by r33_racer

howdy just about to order some pistons for 30det.

can get a good deal on acl rebuild kits and the new forged pistons they've produced.

does anyone have any experiance with these suckers? are they any good? or shall i pay a few hunj more and buy eg arais??? dont really wona spend teh extra dollars coz i will also be getting Hbeam rods.

also these acl forged pistons apparently produce a comp ratio of 8.5!

is this ok for a daily driver which will cop a bit of shit with about 420rwhp???

the car is a r33 is thats gona help.

except those pistons are suited for a rb30ET not DET. I think it will give a shithouse CR something like 7.1:1 its been said. You need the NA pistons to give a better CR around 8.2-8.5 or thereabouts.

No they are 8.5:1 in the RB30ET engine, so when used with the RB25 head they come in around 8 depending on combustion chamber size. I have used them in my RB30 with R34 Neo head ( it has a 58cc chamber ) and comp has worked out at 8.4:1

You are correct in what you said if you use the std oem turbo piston from the VL RB30ET. They were around 7.5:1 std I believe.

Best to use the CP pistons like I sell.

Edited by Spoolup
No they are 8.5:1 in the RB30ET engine, so when used with the RB25 head they come in around 8 depending on combustion chamber size. I have used them in my RB30 with R34 Neo head ( it has a 58cc chamber ) and comp has worked out at 8.4:1

You are correct in what you said if you use the std oem turbo piston from the VL RB30ET. They were around 7.5:1 std I believe.

Best to use the CP pistons like I sell.

So what compression do you get with your pistons SPOOL

CP make two types

8.5:1 and 9.0:1.

One has a flat top with zero deck height and the other has an 11cc ( from memory ) dome.

Thanks for that spool, just wondering Is their any issues using oil restrictors with VVT.

Edited by JMCY

seeing as ive got this motor apart

should i use restrictors if im using an RB25DE head and RB30 oil pump?

the isnt going to be raced very much at all, just a weekend cruise and a dyno run here and there

yes on an RB26 head block off one and use a restrictor in hte other, size depends on oil pump

i picked up my sump adapter on thursday and i'm going to install it this week, so i'll document the whole process (with pics) and post them up here

rb25 head with n1 oil pump and one blocked off and 1.5mm in other and we have oil problems. Circuit racing is a bitch for exposing problems.

oh and we have vct as well.

Refer to the table from SK's oil control problems in rbs info.

Edited by r33_racer

Hey guys been reading this thread for a while now almost an hour lol

just a few qik questions...

i have picked up an rb30 complete do i need a n/a rb25de head or can i use an rb25det head as there is one that has been ported and polished? vct or non vct

also this rb30 has been rebuilt to std specs like 400kms ago is it worth just fitting the head and fix it if it breaks. I work in a performance workshop so rebuilding it is no problem i was just curious if anyone has pushed the std n/a 30 bottom end to breaking point?

cheers

I would just bolt them together with the restrictors and remote oil feed to the vct. Cc your chambers and pistons( you dont need to pull them out) and chech your deck heights to find out your comp and squish, i would go for high 8's:1 comp amd about 35 thou squish, so you may have to deck the head or block of fiddle with head gasket thickness, get a steel head gasket and your done. Dont try to get 1000hp, and it will hold together. You may wish to put a good set of big end bearings in it though. This should be good for a safe 550hp if tuned well, as above this the rods go

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
    • Neg, the top one is actually for the front. The sizes are 18x10.5 +18 and 18x11 +32.   I measured many times but I'm sure I'll have problems as this is the thread for problems.
    • Just one thing; tapping tapered threads is tricky. Taps are always tapered and you would generally run it as far as you can, but with a tapered thread you have to stop much sooner otherwise the wide part of the taper will run in too far and you will have to thread the sensor in too far too as well (possible that it will never make a good seal) BTW nice wide wheels, I guess the top one is for the back!
    • Welp, good to know. Will have to wait awhile until steady hands with drills and taps are available. In other news, these just arrived! I will weigh them for posterity. Edit: 11kg each (or 10.9/11.1 depending on what my scale decides over multiple tests, the 18x11 don't seem to weigh noticeably any more than 10.5)  
×
×
  • Create New...