Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok , so from reading this im guess a rb30(n/a) bottom end will not just bolt straight in....

i have a rb25det (automatic) in a R33 gtst i dont wanna change driveline .

Will my box fit? will the engine mounts match ? its a great thread but im just looking to bolt on the rb30 bottom end without changing pistons and grinding galleries? is this possible???

thanks in advance

Edited by Veilside-SaU

Im pretty sure all spigot bearings are the same. rb30, 25, 20 and 26 identical. Ask for an rb30 spigot bearing...chances of finding that are probably better as its from an australian car...some automotive stores dont know any better. Ask for a 26 and the list will only say rb30....and the pimple faced kid behind the counter will say 'sorry sir the computer only lists one for an rb30 out of a vl commondore, cant help you...'

Idiots...annoying sometimes.

RE: Belt sizes.

Just been looking on dayco.com.au, heaps of belt options.

94843: 153 teeth, STP8M pitch, 25mm wide (not that it needs to get any longer)

94407: 152 teeth, STP8M pitch, 25mm wide

94604: 151 teeth, STP8M pitch, 25mm wide

94777: 150 teeth, STP8M pitch, 23mm wide (this belt is equiv to gates t306,150 teeth)

94830: 149 teeth, STP8M pitch, 25mm wide (pretty much spot on for low low setup)

94109: 148 teeth, STP8M pitch, 25mm wide

94652: 147 teeth, STP8M pitch, 25mm wide (getting a bit short....)

Hope this helps a few people, Im gonna work out the best one for the low low tensioner setup for mine, will post up results.

Edited by Godzilla33

hi guys i have these pistons

AP340754 Arias - Arias Forged Pistons Rb30 Non-turbo 86.5mm Bore Supplied With Rings

how good are they for this conversion???

what comp ration would it give with 1.5mm head gasket and rb25 vvt head?? and the block has been faced if that makes a big diff (not sure how much tho)

the non-turbo pistons are better for this conversion yee? or is that just the standard non-turbo pistons which are better??

whats teh differance in strength between the turbo and non turbo pistons?

Hey Scooby,

yeah, pitch is the same as std RB30 belt, Im 99% gonna use the 149 tooth option with the low low 2 tensioner setup. Gives that bit more clearance between tensioners. My local Repco doesnt stock dayco, gonna try get one tomorrow elsewhere.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Pressure when IDLING, is meant to be 51PSi... So that amperage value needs to go up a fair chunk... I'd personally be factoring for more like 12amp at least on those runs, and at that point you need to hope the already there wiring doesn't drop you a volt or two, as that's a lot of fuel pressure flow drop off from 13.5 to 12V! Taking idle pressure of 51psi, means the pump will be drawing a MINIMUM of 9amps all the time based on your reading of the graph (3bar base, then allowing an extra 0.5bar for boost = roughly 51psi)
    • Hi all,  I am in the market for an R200 longnose diff out of a Z31 300ZX, or S12 RSX, DR30 skyline, or similar, in a 3.9 ratio.  Preferably a late model one with the M12 crownwheel bolts.  The only easy to find advert for one of these was my ad back in 2007 when I sold it on this forum.  I sold the diff as I had sold the car it goes to, but as it turns out, after 18 years I got the car back late last year, so now I'm looking for the diff !  If anyone knows where to find a longnose R200 LSD with the M12 crownwheel bolts, drop me a line at [email protected] - Bonus paid if soomeone comes up with the original diff (stranger things have happened !).  Cheers   Ben D    
    • Hi everyone, I used to post here a bit from 2004-2013, when I owned various Nissans, in particular my S12 RSX gazelle, which was sold in 2007.  As luck would have it, after an 18 year hiatus, the car found its way back to me last year, and over the past 11 months I have had the pleasure of restoring it with my kids.  One thing that I am after in particular is a 3.9 ratio R200 LSD for it.  I actually sold the one out of the car here back in 2007 , and it would be incredible if I could track down who I sold it to, so I can see how they have progressed over the years (and to be honest, to see whether I can get the diff back !).  Anyways, hi all and let me know "where are the R200 Longnose diffs all at these days ?  Cheers Ben D  
    • Arms will be the same as the G35 or 350Z, but as above, there was a change in the lower control arm where it connects to the ball joint.  That said, you can remove the ball joint cone from your old ball joints and fit them to the new ball joints.  To be honest, I didn't think the ball joints themselves were different. The main ball joint is a bit awkward to replace, you really need to remove the steering knuckle to press out the old one.  Some people have used tools to remove it in place, but it just seemed too hard to get to. If you are going to press out/in that ball joint, then you may as well just replace the bushings in the LCA and the compression rod.  You can buy the compression rod bushing from Nissan, but the LCA bushes, you will need to go aftermarket. Much cheaper than buying the whole arm.
    • Ha, well, it's been.... a bit of a journey. Things have taken much longer than I'd hoped. I'll probably put up a thread at some stage. Hopefully soon. The car's not done any kms since my update in June though, put it that way.
×
×
  • Create New...