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hey guys just a quik question. im going to be buying a garrett gt35/40 and im not shore wheather to go .82 or 1.06 exhaust housing i will be using the stock exhaust manifold with foolboost's adapter plate to suit so i no 300rwkw will be about all the stock manifold has but that all i want so its all good just wondering if the .82 housing will allow it to spool faster but will it cause a flow restriction more so than the stock exhaust manifold?

yeh i no it will make the power im just thinking about how usable th epower will be if i get the .82 housing will it be to snappy and just = tyre smoke or will it be smooth. i wanna be able to get most of the power to the ground lol

Hey guys,

Just wondering the weight of the RB30 block, RB25 block and RB26 block (25 and 26 would be pretty close right? I remember hearing the 26 had more ribbing etc making it a different weight to the 25).

Aslo how does the Neo 25 head compare to the RB26 head? Just wondering if the 26 head is worth the extra money compared to the neo 25 as last I heard it was a decent improvement on the old RB25 head. Course the 26 head will always look hawt compared to the 25 :P

And last but not least, how do iron blocks compare to alloy? Iron would keep more heat in right? is that a good thing or a bad thing? Not exactly a mechanic here and just looking for some info.

Thanks guys.

hey guys,

i tried checking to see if this was mentioned. I'm putting the RB26 head on my RB30. What tensioners do I use when using the two lower tensioner locations instead of drill tapping a hole near the top flat portion.

I have a gates power grip GT2 150 tooth belt, and it's pretty damn sturdy, so i'll just make a thin piece of metal that separates the two teethed sides in the case of any belt flap or what have you.

so i've noticed that nismoparts.com has two different tensioners. both RB20/25, and 26. someone told me that if i use the RB26 head, i should use the 26 tensioners, but im not sure if the stud or the construction of the tensioner is the same or if the RB30 block itself is suited to RB25 tensioners rather than 26 ones.

Let me know, i want to order everything soon :-D

NA high compression RB30DE on it's way...

Thanks dudes!

Raff

i was under the impression that all the tensioners were the same.

Besides you only need to use one above the water pump and leave an idler down the bottom. Makes it way easier if you need to change belts or adjust something which requires the belt to be removed.

That would be move it out a few mm. In makes it tighter and the 152 belt is the perfect tension with an idler low and the tensioner high.

correct, but as stated, the GT2 belt is far stronger than a standard timing belt, im sure.

just looking at its construction is enough to tell that. i'd be happier knowing that I can run the GT2.

It's not so much the strength of the belt but the bolts in the idler and tensioner that cause more catastrophic failures. I know of a few belts that have torn apart due to foreign object damage, or old age, but there are many instances of the bolts or bearings failing, so the bolts need to be high tensile items. If there is too much load on the belt the bolts can also be the weak point.

I've just started stripping my RB30e down to fit all my goodies. Would it be worth replacing welsh plugs on a 180 thousand K engine?

yes i would say removing the old steel plugs and replacing them with brass ones is a good idea, especially since you can buy a whole set for under $40

If the engine is well built and maintained and treated well what is the average life of a RB25/30?? Ive been advised 60,000km if lucky. Just seeing whether the big bucks is worth the bang. How much of a lag monster is it also?? Sorry im sure question has been answered but no time to scroll through 260 pages.

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