Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

HI all

Joel WROTE

There is an issue.. Apparently the RB oil pumps have a different size gear i.e NA and ET pumps have a different size gear how is the over come?

looking at the oil pumps the diffrence is in the width of the gear ,I will use the oil pump from my 25t as the gear is considerably wider and as such will pump more oil / flow.

have got oil squirters installed ,what a mission!!!, the Rb30 block has only 3-4mm metal in the casting before you enter the oil gallery (the 25t block has over 10mm).Ended up having to tap out to 3/8 bspt thread and installed the squirters into brass plugs,height of sqirters is a real issue as the crank has minimal clearance to the block,alot of mucking around I hope it is worth it.

Mayby someone can shed some light on the effectivness of the oil squirter install,I suspect that unless its a high boost+high rev drag motor the oil squirters are not really necessary (they are painfull to install).

Motor is about 1/3 reasembled ,im off to carry on.

cheers

Well basically I image it is why the RB25's and RB20's are able to make so much power before having forged pistons fitted.

For example the VL Turbo isn't able to make 260rwkw on standard pistons. The ol' VL Turbo's have many story's of melting pistons.

Originally posted by 25t

HI all

Joel WROTE

There is an issue.. Apparently the RB oil pumps have a different size gear i.e NA and ET pumps have a different size gear how is the over come?

looking at the oil pumps the diffrence is in the width of the gear ,I will use the oil pump from my 25t as the gear is considerably wider and as such will pump more oil / flow.

have got oil squirters installed ,what a mission!!!, the Rb30 block has only 3-4mm metal in the casting before you enter the oil gallery (the 25t block has over 10mm).Ended up having to tap out to 3/8 bspt thread and installed the squirters into brass plugs,height of sqirters is a real issue as the crank has minimal clearance to the block,alot of mucking around I hope it is worth it.

Mayby someone can shed some light on the effectivness of the oil squirter install,I suspect that unless its a high boost+high rev drag motor the oil squirters are not really necessary (they are painfull to install).

Motor is about 1/3 reasembled ,im off to carry on.

cheers

Yep 25t,

i was looking into the oil pumps to see if there was some size diffrences between all the RB motors and there is.

The difference is the gear width:

RB30E - 10.8mm wide

RB30ET - 13.4mm wide

RB26DETT - haven't measured, but looks like about 15mm wide or so to the eye.

Now, this wasnt measured by me. But from this we can accuratly say that running a RB26 Oil pump wouldnt hurt. Also i think the water pumps are diffrent also. (slightly) I will take a look tonight once i get the package. (RB26DETT oil & water pump)

Trev,

Doh...

I've got a series 1 calais. Do u think i would be better just getting a turbo block or a series 2 block?

On another note...Where you saying that the standard rb30 rods and pistons and suitable for this conversion? I know they are probably not recommended but what sorta power do u think they could withstand?

Cheers

The crank & rods are all the same in the NA and turbo motors.

Gotta luv nissan :)

Have a look on previous pages it states how much power/torque the standard rods can handle.

Don't get a turbo block.. Why? Its the same as a NA block with lower comp pistons.

A quick question, how much machine has to be done to make the rb20 head fit a rb30 block as I want the standard look with less turbo lag, stacks of torque and around 200kw at the treads.

I already have a spare rb20 det thats why i'm asking and I can get the machining for free.

Hi Rowdyr32, RB20 head won't fit RB30 block, bore size is different (78 mm versus 86 mm). RB25 and RB26 are 86 mm like RB30 so you can use a RB25DE or RB25DET or RB26DETT head on RB30 block.

Doing an RB30/RB25 hybrid for 200 rwkw would be a waste of time and money. You can easily get 200 rwkw out of an RB20DET and still have a broad power band, you just have to tune it right and select the right turbo and support systems. Check the posts, there is plenty of info on how to do it.

Hope that helps

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nope.    Grab a varex and turn it down as you get close to home, win win? 
    • So, I've had my V36 for about a month now and have already copped an "excessive exhaust noise" notification from QLD TMR, reported by someone in my local area. It's a twin as per the original, and can have a bit of a throaty note to it when idling cold 😄 and if I do get up it a bit, it can be noisy, but it did pass a roadworthy inspection before sale, so.... ... but in the interest of being a good neighbour, I do want to quieten it down a bit. Is anyone here running a quiet aftermarket cat-back on their V36 or 370Z? And the big, bold question: does an aftermarket cat-back really make much of a performance difference on these cars?
    • The wiring diagram for the R33 RB25 is freely available, and is essentially the same same as most other RBs (just with differences as to which pin # does which job). To get the ECU to power up, you just need to provide power to the ECCS relay, and have the other power feeds that come in from the top left of the wiring diagram (wrt the ECU) that give perma power to the fuel pump relay, the ECU itself, etc etc, all connected. When you put power on all these it will just come to life. It's pretty clear from the diagram what needs to happen. Just follow the lines from the 12V + supply stuff in the top left over towards the ECU. I've even posted snips of such diagrams (not for vanilla 25, I think for Neo and 26) to various threads here in the last few months, talking about what it takes to get the fuel pump and FPCM up and going. Search these up and they will help get you started on doing the same with the vanilla 25 diagram. Hell, for all I know, I've done the same with that one in years past and have forgotten.
    • Yep...so unless someone posts up the answer you will need to probe from the ECU connector to the dash plug with a multi meter in continuity mode to trace the wires.  Note the ECU has multiple - and + (and across different key settings - Battery, IGN and Start) and most likely the power is fed from the connector(s) that is normally near the left hand headlight.
    • Thanks Duncan, I am actually just trying to get the Rb turning and running with the RB25DET S2 original loom itself  I am just trying to get it going outside the body and not thinking about the S15 or trying to match anything to the S15 loom at all I am only trying to see if anyone has done this and what pin they found to be the ignition trigger and ECU+/- on the dash connector, that's about it. Thanks  
×
×
  • Create New...