Cubes Posted May 15, 2008 Share Posted May 15, 2008 And he seems to have dissapeared! do you have his contact details? Disappeared? http://www.tighecams.com.au/ Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/15420-r33-rb30-conversion/page/326/#findComment-3868369 Share on other sites More sharing options...
@irborne Posted May 15, 2008 Share Posted May 15, 2008 (edited) not sure if this will q be beating a dead horse or not but here goes: any of you experts consider using the 300zx (z32) rods ? please share your thoughts on this. Edited May 15, 2008 by @irborne Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/15420-r33-rb30-conversion/page/326/#findComment-3870599 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adriano Posted May 15, 2008 Share Posted May 15, 2008 not sure if this will q be beating a dead horse or not but here goes:any of you experts consider using the 300zx (z32) rods ? please share your thoughts on this. If my memory serves me correctly, they are way too long, and with the price and availability of the rb30 stuff, there would really be no need Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/15420-r33-rb30-conversion/page/326/#findComment-3870611 Share on other sites More sharing options...
@irborne Posted May 15, 2008 Share Posted May 15, 2008 (edited) gotcha! i should do the math first. the 300zx rods is 1.8mm longer than the rb30 (6") rod. even with the combination of the 300zx rods w/ the rb25det pistons it still protrude above the deck. hmm...a thick headgasket may solve it. the availability of the 300zx here in he States are abundant and so cheap. the GM SBC rods option is also dirt cheap: 250.00USD (266.010 AUD); make this also a nice option i'm itching to dive into. Edited May 15, 2008 by @irborne Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/15420-r33-rb30-conversion/page/326/#findComment-3870621 Share on other sites More sharing options...
@irborne Posted May 16, 2008 Share Posted May 16, 2008 (edited) Hi fellow rb30de(t); I got into contact with Scat and I was wondering if anyone be interested in a group buy for SCAT RB30 forged h-beam rods, for a discounted with them? Edited May 16, 2008 by @irborne Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/15420-r33-rb30-conversion/page/326/#findComment-3873055 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adriano Posted May 16, 2008 Share Posted May 16, 2008 My engine has teh modified SBC conrod option. If i built it now, i wouldnt have gone that way, especially with the price of rb30 specific rods available. To modify the SBC rod/bearing/crank costs far more than the purchase price of the rod. Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/15420-r33-rb30-conversion/page/326/#findComment-3873060 Share on other sites More sharing options...
xsv_32 Posted May 19, 2008 Share Posted May 19, 2008 hey im buildin my rb30det atm and im tryin to sort an intake setup 4 it. Using a rb25de head i was considering using a factory intake but have the plenum modified to front facing. But recently i heard that this mod can lean out the 6th piston or something. Any opinions or advice would be great. Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/15420-r33-rb30-conversion/page/326/#findComment-3878278 Share on other sites More sharing options...
SirRacer Posted May 19, 2008 Share Posted May 19, 2008 cheapest way is to run the piping like this. excuse the tape and excessive joiners (hasnt been welded yet) Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/15420-r33-rb30-conversion/page/326/#findComment-3878304 Share on other sites More sharing options...
bubba Posted May 20, 2008 Share Posted May 20, 2008 I can't fit the 120deg intake pipe like that due to bonnet clearance so I'm going with a GTR plenum chamber welded to stock runners with a single throttle body. Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/15420-r33-rb30-conversion/page/326/#findComment-3879786 Share on other sites More sharing options...
dano4127 Posted May 20, 2008 Share Posted May 20, 2008 cheapest way is to run the piping like this. excuse the tape and excessive joiners (hasnt been welded yet) This is how i did mine, Is there any reason for doing it the way you have? Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/15420-r33-rb30-conversion/page/326/#findComment-3880402 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gts-t Posted May 20, 2008 Share Posted May 20, 2008 Thanks for those pics fellas, ive been tossin up which way my piping will go. Either way looks good with dan's having slightly more bends? also what ex manifolds are you guys using (dan and sir racer) cheers Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/15420-r33-rb30-conversion/page/326/#findComment-3880769 Share on other sites More sharing options...
dano4127 Posted May 20, 2008 Share Posted May 20, 2008 Im using a stainless one from Boostworx AFAIK it was made by them for a VL and to be honest sits a little too high, that as much info that I have on it, Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/15420-r33-rb30-conversion/page/326/#findComment-3880815 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Al Posted May 20, 2008 Share Posted May 20, 2008 Thanks for those pics fellas, ive been tossin up which way my piping will go. Either way looks good with dan's having slightly more bends? also what ex manifolds are you guys using (dan and sir racer) cheers If you are after a quality exhaust manifold i highly recommend 6boost or Extreme Turbo Manifolds (ETM). I am using an ETM item and my mate is using 6boost; both work of arts Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/15420-r33-rb30-conversion/page/326/#findComment-3880925 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spoolup Posted May 20, 2008 Share Posted May 20, 2008 I use a 6boost http://www.spoolimports.com/content/SpoolImportsR33.asp Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/15420-r33-rb30-conversion/page/326/#findComment-3880931 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alf Posted May 20, 2008 Share Posted May 20, 2008 Did you cut a hole where the battery used to sit? My previous skylines have been defected for cutting holes, DOT inspectors said it weakens the crush zone of the body and all piping should go through factory holes or be plumbed around the body. My current rb20 piping is done this way. If you are after a quality exhaust manifold i highly recommend 6boost or Extreme Turbo Manifolds (ETM). I am using an ETM item and my mate is using 6boost; both work of arts I wish the service was the same quality. For some reason Leigh (ETM) quoted me higher through these forums, and $150 lower (same car, same manifold) on CLT forums under a VLT orientated username. They both take months to reply to pm's and email, thats if they do... The prices these days are a bit steep for a street car.... I'll be making my own. Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/15420-r33-rb30-conversion/page/326/#findComment-3881429 Share on other sites More sharing options...
rockabilly Posted May 20, 2008 Share Posted May 20, 2008 hi guys, not posted for a while.. right section now, after some advice as usual.. my rb26/30 has now done 2500 miles no problem whatsoever, but is under turbo,ed. specs is as follow, rb30 block decked bored to 86.5mm spool rods, cp forged slugs. acl bearings,arp bolts everywhere. trust sump 1000cc injectors, twin in tank tomei fuel pumps. hks drag 4" intercooler.. 1.0 tomei headgasket. jun stage one cams 264/272 9.7mm lift. full extreme turbomanfolds kit using a gt35r 1.06 rear 4" dump car made 680bhp 645lbs @ 5500rpm but drops off after 6500rpm,s pm,ed leigh ref replacement kit as i have a buyer for mine. thinking of going t4 flange and twin scroll. leigh suggested gt4088r or 4294r not sure what rears to use on either, or spooling times on either too?. looking for 750-850 bhp @ the fly..with a good spool. cheers bernie.uk Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/15420-r33-rb30-conversion/page/326/#findComment-3882110 Share on other sites More sharing options...
r33_racer Posted May 20, 2008 Share Posted May 20, 2008 kyles obviously (6boost) | | | | | v Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/15420-r33-rb30-conversion/page/326/#findComment-3882275 Share on other sites More sharing options...
dano4127 Posted May 20, 2008 Share Posted May 20, 2008 Did you cut a hole where the battery used to sit?My previous skylines have been defected for cutting holes, DOT inspectors said it weakens the crush zone of the body and all piping should go through factory holes or be plumbed around the body. My current rb20 piping is done this way. Nah R33 has battery in the boot from standard, But I had to remove the windscreen washer bottle that I will replace with a alloy surge/washer bottle when the wallet permits Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/15420-r33-rb30-conversion/page/326/#findComment-3882324 Share on other sites More sharing options...
GTRgeoff Posted May 21, 2008 Share Posted May 21, 2008 There is a region below the washer bottle where the GTR piping is run through as standard and the rail is exactly the same in a 33 GTSt. It even has the shape stamped. Cutting the hole and finishing with a little reinforcing is generally fine. Do a good job, tell them it is factory and if they want proof get a mate with a GTR and show them or take photos. Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/15420-r33-rb30-conversion/page/326/#findComment-3882729 Share on other sites More sharing options...
xsv_32 Posted May 24, 2008 Share Posted May 24, 2008 Was wondering if many have used the rb30 gearboxes? I bought mine with the block im using for my 30 build and iv heard heaps about the gtr and 25t g/boxes bein really strong but not so much is said about the rb30 boxes. So any advice or opinions on their strength? also what are the ratios like? Cheers. Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/15420-r33-rb30-conversion/page/326/#findComment-3891300 Share on other sites More sharing options...
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