Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

It appears that the Wolf actually has a lot more features than the pfc.

Here's a quick run down on the features of Wolf v4 plug in for the R33/R32.

Map/Maf Use.

Closed Loop.

Air temp - Fuel/Ign/Boost compensation

Engine - Fuel/Ign/Boost compensation

Boost can be set per 500rpm to what ever value you like, it can also be trimmed to according to tps/air temp, engine temp.

Rotational Idle can be setup by Steve from SST.

Map Switching

Its a good ecu.

Check out the couple of threads that compare the PowerFC to the Wolf3D.

cool about time there was another good cheap plugin ecu. The older wolfs were a little shit, but i've heard the v4's are good. Dunno how they go with fuel economy, heard the microtech uses more, and can't remember if i've heard the same about the newer wolf's

i plugged my PFC in.

BANG. New car.

Wheel spinnage.

awesome power increase.

and after the tune ?? well the tune got me 285bhp

I so love the drivability of the PFC and the hand controller graph views are just totally awesome.

Id suggest the PFC to anyone.

Microtech uses more fuel because it doesn't have closed loop.

i.e as GTST VSpec told me that in closed loop mode it runs up to around 18:1 where as the best you can get from a non closed loop car is what ever the base map is which won't be 18:1.. :D

  • 2 weeks later...

The dipstick assembly is just an iterference fit in the block hole. If you genty twist it you can lossen it and carefully keep turning back and forth until it comes out. Alternatively you could use the correct size drift and tap it out of the block from below.

OK so how do i get the Crank timing pulley off then. NOT the Crank pulley, the one behind them, in front of the oil pump which the timing belt goes around. Does it come off with the oil pump, cos it seems that the pump is free from the block, but the timing pulley is stopping it and i dunno how to get that off.

Your help is appreciated.

same way you got the oil pump off... tap it off with a hammer. You'll need to take the little key out (the little metal bit that stops the gear spinning on the crank shaft). But have some wood between the hammer and the crank gear cos you don't want to damage the teeth.

My timing gear was seized on the crank as well, and i got a local engine builder to remove it for me, they just drilled small holes in the timing gear from the front, extending from the center of the gear out to the edge, and then just used a cold chisel to create a radial split in the gear, and off it came. obviously a new gear was required.

Have any of you bolted the RB26DETT head on the RB30E?

Im about to do that, I was just wondering if anyone knew the difference in compression ratio?

If the RB30E/RB25DE is 8.3:1, what is the RB30E/RB26DETT?

Apart from tapping the holes in the block is there anything alse that needs doing?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Dredgggggeeee time; I have recently finally started driving the car. It sat for so long that the fuel tank gave birth to rust sludge and blocked my lift pump sock and one of my walbro 460's and left grime, rust chunks and muck all through the surge tank and system. I decided to commit and pull the trigger on an oem r32 gtr fuel tank and Frenchys twin 460 / sender / surge tank hanger combo and all new larger lines and fittings etc, also boost doc heater hose kit / new heater core and a heap of other bits and shits like wideband sensor installed in the dump and Syltech iacv + lines and all wired and added to current tune. now having lightly driven it a couple times without issue, I can happily report on the hta3076 in its current tune. still no boost control switched on, 20psi gate springs, car makes 22psi at 3200rpm in 6th gear with 30-50% TPS from cruise at 100kmh. Going by the old graph, this means it should be making 300-325whp at the same numbers above. Very very responsive setup under true road driving loads. all that's left for the build is body loom + PDM, finish the remote aircon setup, install carbon fibre parts and go for full tune and 30psi. the 315 rear tyres are now performing like they're 195's, wheel spin in any gear at almost any rpm, whereas my previous setup hooked up in 3rd no issue, albeit Nt01's back then / RB25 5spd vs (new) old date r888r's Z34 6spd now, + obviously all the support upgrades I listed in the quoted post above. car sits at 1-3psi on cruise at 100kmh, expectations totally exceeded and I'm beyond stoked with all this so far. IMG_4848.mov
    • I've also been eyeing their rear axles for my car. I purchased seat mounts from them about 7 years ago and they were hot garbage so I've been a little wary about purchasing them. With that being said, please buy them and get back to us haha. 
    • Can a moderator please move this into the right category.. I've accidently put this into racing build thread 🤦🏽‍♂️
×
×
  • Create New...