Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

bigmaxy: it would work and be a true straight line monster.. but you're going to have problems with diffs, gearboxes and the like using much of the aussie R31ness.. and I wouldn't want to be cornering in an aussie R31 with 300rwkw or so on tap ! I have both an aussie R31 and R33 turbo, and the handling differences are pretty large.

I would probably just go for a straight swap RB20DET or RB25DET in there. No need to pull apart an engine and should be fine with stock internals for the power you want of around 250rwkw. That way you can just drop it in.

If you're really keen RB31DET is a monster, but in an aussie R31 i wouldn't be bothering unless you wanted a drag car, as it will probably throw you off at the nearest corner.

Hi, I have afew Q's

Awesome post, but a little to long to read on my lunch break

I am interested in performing this transplant into my r32, what is the total cost of the motor + extras

Do you need to perform any custom mods to fit to an r32, mounts, crossmember etc

How much heavier is the rb30/25det than the rb20det, will i need to upgrade suspension brakes, is it heavy enough to upset the handeling?

Hey guys, im running a GT3040 with the .82 AR axhaust.

People keep telling me it's going to be to small on my RB30 and run out up top?

Will I get the 500HP at the engine I want? Or is it going to be too small??

If thats the same as the 2.41/3.22in comp wheel 550hp GT30 on Ray Halls site, then yes, it looks like it'll give you your 500hp at the engine. I would have gone with the 1.06 exh AR too if I as using a GT30. Run it as is and see if its what you want. A exhaust housing swap to 1.06 is relatively cheap if it doesn't work out.

I'd be interested to see how a 1.06 exh AR 600hp GT30 compares with a 0.82 AR exh 620hp GT35. The GT35 is the turbo I'm considering using.

Gradenko.. stay tuned because i have a GT35r with 0.82 exh housing... hopefully it will spool up quickly and hold good torque throw the entire rev range, tho i thought it might be a bit too small to reach high 400 low 500hp@wheels

Well I have the GT3040 to try.. my manifold has been modded to fit it.

When you say boost to fast? Do you mean it will hit all of a sudden rather than more gradual with a bigger exhaust housing??

I have a T88 33D in the garage... but I think I will like the smaller turbo a little better :P

Laying them next to each other though, the bell mouths are the same size... haha.

yep,

Boost comes on EXTREAMLY sharp, and fast. :P (boost comes on with allmost same response as a supercharger charger, except without the linear boost rate of a charger.)

Gees... T88 33D would be diffrent, provided you have a 8K auto with transbrake and 12" slicks. :(

Not sure yet, will get it weighed when it's actually finished..

Probably not a hell of a lot lighter than a Skyline by the time it's all togethor.

RB30 + Bar and Plate cooler, and all the other turbo parts really add up in weight.

Have got fibreglass front guards and a carbon bonnet for the thing so that should help...

Not sure yet, will get it weighed when it's actually finished..

Probably not a hell of a lot lighter than a Skyline by the time it's all togethor.

RB30 + Bar and Plate cooler, and all the other turbo parts really add up in weight.

Have got fibreglass front guards and a carbon bonnet for the thing so that should help...

Yep, that's what I have found with the 1 X RB engined Silvia I have weighed. The guy wanted to do it 'cause it weighed 250 kgs less than an R32GTST Skyline. Then he added the Skyline engine, front subframe, gearbox, tail shaft, diff, drive shafts, brakes, hubs, rear subframe, wheels, intercooler, oil cooler, radiator etc. Bingo it now weighed the same as an R32 GTST Skyline. It was a total waist of time, money and effort.

Now that's a sample of 1, maybe not representative. Let me know what yours comes in at.

i have been quoted ~$770 i think it was...

Std rods with Lininished, resized, rebushed small ends, arp rod

bolts fitted approx $670, $100 for new bearings

I have also spoken to a friend who said it cost him $250 for a set of 6 rods to get shot peened..

hmm

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...