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SK , I like the idea of the RB26 head . Better cam profiles , larger valves (by how much I don't know) better and lower inlet manifold , common injector style . Was the RB26 head difficult to come by , obviously it was not cheap . I assume it can use the single turbo exhaust manifold plus coils and ignitor .

Thanks SK , A .

They'd be of interest if you own a 240Z/260Z, 280zx, 1600, Z31, DR30, or import R31.

Basically the newer R200 found in later skylines is too short for our cars.

Back on topic though, so with the 3.0L is worth dropping to say around a ~3.5 LSD you think without harming accceleration?

Would probably sit on nice low revs on the freeway I suppose.

They'd be of interest if you own a 240Z/260Z, 280zx, 1600, Z31, DR30, or import R31.

Basically the newer R200 found in later skylines is too short for our cars.

Back on topic though, so with the 3.0L is worth dropping to say around a ~3.5 LSD you think without harming accceleration?

Would probably sit on nice low revs on the freeway I suppose.

looks at my signature:

HR31 GT Passage Skyline

i think i've got 4.4's as my car was once auto and i was wondering how they would affect the 3L and its power out put. I think the 4.11 and 4.4's are in place to make the non torquey RB20 feel punchy and quick, but what will happen once the 3L with mountains of torque goes in? will the tires light up too easily?

:D

it sits nice and low in the rev range with the std r32 4.3 lsd....dont worry about extras unless its a) got to be sorted in a custom job (like drukenmaster), b)your old diff is rooted.

I always see people asking about big arsed turbos, injectors etc....how about people worry about building the motor, fitting it and getting it running......

 

I always see people asking about big arsed turbos, injectors etc....how about people worry about building the motor, fitting it and getting it running......

I will be fitting my solid fuel lines down the length of the car tonight, followed by the adjustable suspension during the week. Now it is easier to fit the diff and the rear suspension at the same time as they share mounting points, and I need to fit my new suspension in order to fit my modified front crossmember. Now the front crossmember will need to be in so I can fit my modified engine mounts to it, and those mounts will have to be there to sit my RB30DET on.

So sorting out a diff for me to pick up now is crucial to getting my RB30 fitted and running :wassup:

:jk:

Drunkenmaster , later I will look into a 3.7 or 3.5 ratio long nose R200 . Going from 2 litres to 3 should pull this easily . From memory VL's used a 3.45 std with a 3.3 1st gear (NA) .

Be careful, VL's came with 185/60/15's, compare that to my GTST with 245/45/17's, this turrns the 4.363 dif ratio into a 3.9. :)

Drunkenmaster , later I will look into a 3.7 or 3.5 ratio long nose R200 . Going from 2 litres to 3 should pull this easily . From memory VL's used a 3.45 std with a 3.3 1st gear (NA) .

Be careful, VL's came with 185/60/15's, compare that to my GTST with 245/45/17's, this turrns the 4.363 dif ratio into a 3.9. :)

Can someone tell me what valve sizes in RB26 and if ports/stud patern on exhaust side same as RB20/25DET .

No, this is like Groundhog Day. Nissan don't want you swapping GTR bits onto cheaper cars, so they designed it so it was different. :)

Hi,

I'm new to the forum and must say that this thread is oustanding, credit goes to everyone who has contributed.

I recently picked up a r33 GTST with a blown bottom end and after reading this thread i know what bottom end i'll be using.

I have purchased a GT3040 (0.82 exh ) to go with the new engine.

I have a question.

What parts will fit into the RB25DET head from a GTR head?, I have read in another thread that it's possible to use GTR cams in an RB20.

I got my block last week and after removing the head gasket noticed that there was a '2' stamped on each of the pistons and next to each cylinder on the deck. Is this an indication that the cylinders have been bored? The hone in the cylinders is pretty good considering the engine has 200,000k on it

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This is a huge worry for me, because my car is relatively low mileage (only 45k km when purchased) so although I plan to own the car for a long time, a mismatched odometer reading would be hugely detrimental to resale should the day come to sell the car. Thankfully this only occurred a mile or two from home so it wasn't extremely significant. Also, the OCD part of me would be extremely irked if the numbers that showed on my dash doesn't match the actual ageing of the car. Diagnosing I had been in communication with the well renown GTR shop in the USA, U.P.garage up near University Point in Washington state. After some back and forth they said it could be one of two things: 1) The speedometer sensor that goes into the transfer case is broken 2) The actual cluster has a component that went kaput. They said this is common in older Nissan gauge clusters and that would indicate a rebuild is necessary. As I tried to figure out if it was problem #1, I resolved problem #2 by sending my cluster over to Relentless Motorsports in Dallas, TX, whom is local to me and does cluster and ECU rebuilds. He is a one man operation who meticulously replaces every chip, resistor, capacitor, and electronic component on the PCB's on a wide variety of classic and modern cars. His specialty is Lexus and Toyota, but he came highly recommended by Erik of U.P.garage since he does the rebuilds for them on GTR clusters.  For those that don't know, on R32 and R33 GTR gearboxes, the speedometer sensor is mounted in the transfer case and is purely an analog mini "generator" (opposite of an alternator essentially). Based on the speed the sensor spins it generates an AC sine wave voltage up to 5V, and sends that via two wires up to the cluster which then interprets it via the speedometer dial. The signal does NOT go to the ECU first, the wiring goes to the cluster first then the ECU after (or so I'm told).  Problems/Roadblocks I first removed the part from the car on the underside of the transfer case (drain your transfer case fluid/ATF first, guess who found out that the hard way?), and noted the transfer case fluid was EXTREMELY black, most likely never changed on my car. When attempting to turn the gears it felt extremely gritty, as if shttps://imgur.com/6TQCG3xomething was binding the shaft from rotating properly. After having to reflow the solder on my AFM sensors based on another SAU guide here, I attempted to disassemble the silicone seal on the back of the sensor to see what happened inside the sensor; turns out, it basically disintegrated itself. Wonderful. Not only had the electrical components destroyed themselves, the magnetic portion on what I thought was on the shaft also chipped and was broken. Solution So solution: find a spare part right? Wrong. Nissan has long discontinued the proper sensor part number 32702-21U19, and it is no longer obtainable either through Nissan NSA or Nissan Japan. I was SOL without proper speed or mileage readings unless I figured out a way to replace this sensor. After tons of Googling and searching on SAU, I found that there IS however a sensor that looks almost exactly like the R33/260RS one: a sensor meant for the R33/R34 GTT and GTS-T with the 5 speed manual. The part number was 25010-21U00, and the body, plug, and shaft all looked exactly the same. The gear was different at the end, but knowing the sensor's gear is held on with a circlip, I figured I could just order the part and swap the gears. Cue me ordering a new part from JustJap down in Kirrawee, NSW, then waiting almost 3 weeks for shipping and customs clearing. The part finally arrives and what did I find? The freaking shaft lengths don't match. $&%* I discussed with Erik how to proceed, and figuring that I basically destroyed the sensor trying to get the shaft out of the damaged sensor from my car. we deemed it too dangerous to try and attempt to swap shafts to the correct length. I had to find a local CNC machinist to help me cut and notch down the shaft. After tons of frantic calling on a Friday afternoon, I managed to get hold of someone and he said he'd be able to do it over half a week. I sent him photos and had him take measurements to match not only the correct length and notch fitment, but also a groove to machine out to hold the retentive circlip. And the end result? *chef's kiss* Perfect. Since I didn't have pliers with me when I picked up the items, I tested the old gear and circlip on. Perfect fit. After that it was simply swapping out the plug bracket to the new sensor, mount it on the transfer case, refill with ATF/Nissan Matic Fluid D, then test out function. 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