Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

urgent help needed pls guys!

my 30 blocks all finished and prepped and i should be recieving a call sometime tomorow when my vvt 33 heads ready to be picked up after welding the vvt feed and slight mod to water gallery to suit the 30block. however while my heads there i thought i may aswell get the head specialist to tap the vvt oil feed in the head.

MY PROBLEM, i dont know excatly where to tell him to do it. can someone PLEASE provide me with some detailed pics both close up and from a distance aswell as some measurments of location so i can get this done. also some info on the sizes adaptor and fitting etc.

ANOTHER issue i have is once oil is supplied to the vvt via the extrenal feed does it need to drain off anywhere?? if so where and how??

ideally i need this info tonight so i can pass the info on tomoro.

i have attached pics of the vvt oil feed i have but cant make it out i need more pics/info.

HELP ME PLS!

urgent help needed pls guys!

my 30 blocks all finished and prepped and i should be recieving a call sometime tomorow when my vvt 33 heads ready to be picked up after welding the vvt feed and slight mod to water gallery to suit the 30block. however while my heads there i thought i may aswell get the head specialist to tap the vvt oil feed in the head.

MY PROBLEM, i dont know excatly where to tell him to do it. can someone PLEASE provide me with some detailed pics both close up and from a distance aswell as some measurments of location so i can get this done. also some info on the sizes adaptor and fitting etc.

ANOTHER issue i have is once oil is supplied to the vvt via the extrenal feed does it need to drain off anywhere?? if so where and how??

ideally i need this info tonight so i can pass the info on tomoro.

i have attached pics of the vvt oil feed i have but cant make it out i need more pics/info.

HELP ME PLS!

post-23187-1172569882.jpg

post-23187-1172570105.jpg

post-23187-1172570445.jpg

the rb25 vct head has a drain on the exhaust side that it uses for the extra oil fed in.

use a 1/8th fitting

pic of where it is normally put

remember to setup the additional oil drain ont he exhaust side in the sump for this head return.

all pics were taken from this thread btw

post-5157-1172571321.jpg

post-5157-1172571334.jpg

post-5157-1172571489.jpg

post-5157-1172571502.jpg

thanx for info/pics of feed into vvt, i think ill be able to sort that out now.

however i dont completely understand the vvt oil drain part. can you explain it in rb30det for dummies language/pics.

"remember to setup the additional oil drain ont he exhaust side in the sump for this head return"

so do i tap into the head again for teh drain (where do i do this) ?? and run this into the sump somewhere.

thanx for info/pics of feed into vvt, i think ill be able to sort that out now.

however i dont completely understand the vvt oil drain part. can you explain it in rb30det for dummies language/pics.

"remember to setup the additional oil drain ont he exhaust side in the sump for this head return"

so do i tap into the head again for teh drain (where do i do this) ?? and run this into the sump somewhere.

rb25det head already has an oil drain about 15-20mm forward from the exhaust port for cylinder 1.

you need to run the drain line off that flange down and into the sump, so you need a fitting on the sump to accept this line

as you can see in the picture below, it is the gold line infront (left) of the exhaust shield.

post-5157-1172573842.jpg

GOT HIM!

thanx a lot dude for your help i think youve answered all my questions.

would it be possible to use speedflow fittings and a brainded oil line on the intake side for the vvt feed instead of that one pictured in teh above pics??? what im tryna say is is there a reason for using that piece of tube for teh feed??

nope, can run either the solid tube or braided lines.

use speedflow if you have the cash, if not std gas type fittings that are used in the pics

that isnt my setup above, i think personally from what i have read, that a seperate return that is seperate from the turbo oil drain is a wise idea due to the amount of frothy oil that comes down out of the turbo, but its all up to you

hmm thats something to think about.. use same return as turbo or tap a new one into the sump?? has teh pros and cons to both set ups been covered over the thousand pages lol?? if not please inform me briefly.

also HEAD STUDS.

ill be using aftermarket head studs probably arp, however which ones do i buy??? rb30, rb25, ive heard that your meant to use 26 ones.

which stud is the correct one to use??

Only $360 for the ARP ones :happy:

30 block needs to be tapped n drilled, 25 head needs drilling to fit the thicker studs.

Not a cheap exercise.

http://www.modyourcar.com.au/product_info....roducts_id=3415

$449 bucks for rb26

http://www.tweakit.net/shop/index.php?cPath=57_51_657

$275 for rb25

hold on a minute, are you saying the arp head studs are not a direct fit into the rb30det which uses rb25 head??
no to use rb26 head studs on a 25 head u need to drill the block/head to suit

rb20/25/30 are all the same type 12mm and 26 are 13mm from memory

you just need to source 25 ones :wub:

think the rb25 and rb30 are 11mm - rb26 is 12mm and chev rods are 1/2 inch

Stock RB26 head studs are only $10 ea so $140 a set from Nissan.

Sorry to be going so fast. I NEED to drive this home to Brisbane Saturday, or mostly to get out of Victoria. :happy:

All slow now. Fabricating the stuff to make it fit like induction and throttle cable mount and injector loom. Still to mount oil cooler and need more silicone hose and clamps.

RB25 and 26 have the same TPS plug and Bosch injector plugs (RB30) are $7 at Bursons and a straight fit for 26 injectors. Wired 10ohm 15W resistors in line with the injector loom to match the impedance of the RB25 injectors.

Yes R33Racer I agree , RB25DET/inlet has limits . I wondered for a while if there's any value in using an R34 25DET head on a decent RB25 or 30DET because it gets you into a mechanical valve train though I'm not sure if RB26 cams (aftermarket) interchange . SK tells me that porting wise the 26 is different and impossible to emulate without fabrication . The big issue is that the marketing geniuses at Nissan made very sure they would piss EVERYONE off by not making the manifold patterns common on all DOHC RB heads . To get a mechanical train its R34 25 or RB26 . To get the gun inlet system its only RB26 and then its aftermarket for a single turbo exhaust manifold . You don't really have any choise , if the hydraulic lifters don't limit you the inlet system will . Its a hateful situation but the answer is to bite the bullet or get painted into a corner . Its not all bad though , someone out there should have a use for your RB25 top end .

Cheers A .

yeh id hope so...but we gotta get this new motor making some power first before we even think of doing anything else. Dyno tomorrow arvo for power run to see if we fixed the problem of no power!

But i should start looking around for a busted rb26 or atleast a complete 26 head.

RB26 cams are a direct fit into the R34 head ( after setting the shims etc ) - I am using HKS 272 / 9.35mm cams in mine.

Performance springs make spring and retainer kits for the NEO now also. Also the intake manifold stud pattern on the R33 and R34 are the same as Im using std R33 runners with the CPC plenum - just thought Id mention that.

Yes R33Racer I agree , RB25DET/inlet has limits . I wondered for a while if there's any value in using an R34 25DET head on a decent RB25 or 30DET because it gets you into a mechanical valve train though I'm not sure if RB26 cams (aftermarket) interchange . SK tells me that porting wise the 26 is different and impossible to emulate without fabrication . The big issue is that the marketing geniuses at Nissan made very sure they would piss EVERYONE off by not making the manifold patterns common on all DOHC RB heads . To get a mechanical train its R34 25 or RB26 . To get the gun inlet system its only RB26 and then its aftermarket for a single turbo exhaust manifold . You don't really have any choise , if the hydraulic lifters don't limit you the inlet system will . Its a hateful situation but the answer is to bite the bullet or get painted into a corner . Its not all bad though , someone out there should have a use for your RB25 top end .

Cheers A .

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Can I suggest you try EBC directly again and link them to as many competitor catalogues as you can to show their listing is incorrect, eg https://dba.com.au/product/front-4000-series-hd-brake-rotor-dba42304/ If you have access to an R33 GTST VIN and your VIN, you could also use a Nissan Parts lookup like Amayama to show them the part number is different between 33 GTST and 34 GTT which may get their attention
    • So i got reply from EBC and they just this site where you can clearly see those 296mm fronts on R34 GTT. I send them photos and "quotes" that 296mm are not for 34 GTT and they are too small. But it will be very hard to return them cuz nobody here knows 100% and they just copy those EBC catalogue :-D https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/automotive/nissan/skyline-r34
    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
×
×
  • Create New...