Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 44
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

the rev limiter to stop you reving to a point where it is no longer safe. if nissan didn't want you to rev to 7000rpm the rev limiter would be lower.

it is ok to hit it now and then, just don't sit on it.

while the fuel is cut to limit the revs, it cuts it completely so there isn't really much heat. it is just sparking into air, not into a really lean mixture, or if there was and fuel vapour it would be creating less heat than what a full amount of fuel would.

I've seen an engine (redtop RB20) do a big end after being bounced off the limiter for a couple of seconds. It's not kind to the engine, so don't make a habit of it. Having it cut briefly on you because you didn't grab the next gear soon enough is OK.

That said, my charade used to rev its tits off.. I had mates who wouldn't get out of the car until I'd hit fuel cut at least once :happy:

Soft cut rev limits like those available on Motec/Autronic etc are kinder to the engines...but its best to avoid it if possible.

Then again, whilst its not great for the motor, if your not fussed then its hardly the end of the world...lol raise the limiter to 8,400rpm on a stf motor and go play :P

The harder you work the engine the faster it wears out... it's pretty basic really. As the guys said, don't make a habit of it, RB's are tough but like all engines they'll break eventually and constant high revving will only accelerate that process. Remember that engines are always in a constant state of degradation - it's only a matter of time before something needs replacing. So rev as hard as your wallet will allow :)

I hit the limiter a few times in my last car (Series II 33) and it still had almost identical compression when I sold it (had it for 14mths and always did the servicing with good parts).

If you're going to go hitting the limiter often, at least record it and show us so we can get our kicks without doing it ourselves :)

Cheers

the rev limiter to stop you reving to a point where it is no longer safe. if nissan didn't want you to rev to 7000rpm the rev limiter would be lower.

Thats quite true, although if your car was completely standard i suppose it would be ok. Nissan engineered it to be at 7000rpm from factory, not 7000rpm with mods and standard internals.... If your motor is designed to sit at a rev limiter like for drift n shit then you can sit there and drop the clutch from 7k lol but fuel cut rev limiter sounds a bit dangerous with mods i think...

the rev limiter is there in a safe place to stop you making melted steel out of ur motor. i have seen/driven many a car bouncing continuously off the rev limiter. Look at a typical drift meeting at barbs. For a good 150m we are smashing limiter up the hill in 3rd and yet to break anything. stop being so weak, get out there smash some limiter and scare some old people :)

I had a cefiro with over 100k's on it and i would atleast hit limiter once a day for the 8 months i had it, its still going strong! but ive fitted a bee r to my 34 to be a bit safer :ninja:

my mate has a natro rb30 that revs to 9000rpm. it will sit there all day.... well not quite. but it does have a rb26 oil pump and the centre of the crank shaft has been bored out to allow more oil through to cool the bearings.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
    • In my head it does make sense to be a fuel problem since that is what I touched when cleaning the system. When I was testing with the fuel pressure gauge, the pressure was constantly 2.5 bar with the FPR vacuum removed. When stalling, the pressure was going up to 3.0 bar (which is how it should be on ignition).
    • ECUtalk pages don't mention they support the ABS computer (consult port has more than one CAN), so you might just need a different scan tool. But, I would expect ABS is a different light to the brake warning/handbrake light, do you see an ABS light come on for a few seconds when you turn the key from ACC to IGN? But since you said: I'd have a look at the ABS sensors in the rear hubs to make sure they are not damaged, disconnected etc.
    • OK, if it idles at 1000+ with the AAC, its not an idle airflow problem. The cold start valve just gives extra air when the engine is cold, but you have enough air without it to idle at 1000. I think you are back to a fuel problem, sorry. Can you see the fuel pressure staying constant or does it drop as the revs drop to a stall?  
×
×
  • Create New...