Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey Guys,

There is this loud screaching noise when the car hasnt been started for a few hours or in the morning. Now i know the noise is coming from one of the recently replaced water pump, ac or power steering belts and goes away after a few seconds and stays quiet when im driving. Im thinking the mechanic either didnt tension the belt enough or to much? Or does this usually happen for the first few times with new belts once they are changed. Any feedback is appreciated thanks

Yeah its a belt. You can also buy a product from CRC i think, its a non slip sticky spray on stuff for belts. But you shouldnt need it. Just tighten them. Thats what i did when i had the exact same prob as you.

Thanks for the reply guys, its my regular mechanic so they will no doubt fix it for free i just thought maybe it would go away by itself after a while but looks like ye they didnt tighten it enough.

Thanks again

could also be caused by a small person caight in the engine bay. anytime you start the car it hurts so they scream.

That or a loose fan belt....tighten up the alternator adjuster

most probable that the belts have been put on too tight. U can adjust the tension in a few minutes with a shifter,

PM me for details on how to do this, I had this problem too when putting new belts on, they usually do it a bit tight to allow for stretching over time

Thanks for the feedback guys, i did adjust the alternator adjustment screw a little bit because i thought it was a little loose, then took it back to the mechanics and he said its fine because he didnt want to tighten it to much because it will put to much strain on the water pump and bearing if it was to tight. Maybe some grease or something got onto the belt while it was changed. Ill give it over the weekend to fix itself, if not back to the drawing board on monday i think hrmmm

ya same, my starter motor used to make a screeching noise only when it was cold. i took her out and slapped some grease in, hasnt done it since.

might even be the starter motor

mine was makn a screachin noise, still havent got it fixed.

  • 4 months later...

hey guys, im having the same issue atm with this. I put some no slip spray on it and this stopped the noise from happening as much, but it only lasted about a week or 2...

can anyone point me in the right direction of what screw i need to tighten, with maybe an image or something? Or where to locate it, any help would be awesome

As someone said they stretch over time. So when you first put them on, and adjust them to the right tension, they shoudl be all good, then as they over the next couple of hundred k's, you redadjust them again.

How does grease help the problem? I can see how grease would stop the noise (by lubricating), but I can't see the grease making the belt "grip" the pulley better. Unless it gets absorbed into the rubber over time and moistens it up or something?????? Kind of like, when you drive with wet shoes, it's slippery at first, but after it starts drying out it gets to a REALLY grippy stage....

Avoid using belt grip sprays.. they usually dont do much if anything at all.

If the belt is tensioned enough get a stick of dri-lube, and run it along the belt (carefully!) while the engine is idling until the noise stops.

Even the slightest bit of grease off the mechanics hands, while fitting, is enough to make the belt noisy.

If you can twist the belt about 3/4 of a turn is a good place to start and very very small adjustments until it stops making the noise.

Check out what a tight belt will do and i have done a OEM and N1 in the same way.

post-28646-1181502917_thumb.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Man, different parts but the same numbers is terrible @dbm7! And it doesn't help that most online shops don't list the part numbers at all. They just give a list of compatible models...
    • Slow when hot could also be because its getting more dynamic compression, OR things are getting a bit tighter once it is all expanded. If it were an earthing issue, typically I'd expect you to have it have issues all the time. Unless it's really a combination of both things. Where the higher compression, and things being a bit tighter, is giving that bit of extra load and you do need a slight clean up on the cables/connections.
    • Yeah, this is one of the most annoying things about nissan part numbers... I've got an unrelated example... Image is of the AT output shaft ~ they have the same part#, but clearly the shaft on the left is beefier design to that on the right ...the difference (essentially) is the 'lighter' shaft on the right, is for engines up to RB25DE (this includes RB20 variants) : the shaft on the left is for RB25/26DET(T)....are they interchangeable? Yes...but obviously one shaft is going to be stronger than the other...and, the lighter shaft is around USD115, but the heavier shaft closer to USD150...same part#... ...epc-data usually tells a tale ~ the amayama listing for 39100-23U60 has a note "Longest side is between 60 and 105 cm" ; no such info is there for 39100-23U70 ...and given the great disparity in price between the 2 parts, it makes me at least curious (to the point of caution) where the 'extra money' went? ...ie; these 2 parts have a cost difference that (to myself at least) isn't explained by 'plastic boot'...ie; with amayama there's AUD700 price difference ...plastic versus rubber?...I'm not seeing it like that...and 60cm ~ 105cm...??...that's a huge disparity....something hinky going on here... I'd try searching by VIN, not model... /2cents
    • I don't know for sure, but I'd expect them all to be interchangeable given the diff end and hub end don't move/change between any C34 series. Often Nissan will change part numbers and the aftermarket follows those year ranges; but the original part number change doesn't mean other parts won't fit. The change could be a change in material, internal parts or even just supplier. For example, all the RB gearbox to engine bolts are no longer available and there is a new part number instead. The only change is they went from cadmium plated bolts to zinc plated due to the issues manufacturing with Cadmium. They look different but work the same.
    • One year is a bit concerning. Did you try contacting GSP? It says 5 year warranty on the box if I remember correctly. I'm also running their driveshafts on my S2 Stagea.   You could check the part numbers on Amayama for your year. Here's the link for my 1998 which gives the 39100-23U60 part number. Well, that and 39100-23U70. https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-catalogs/epc/nissan-japan/stagea/wgnc34/6649-rb25det/trans/391 What does it say for yours?
×
×
  • Create New...