Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi guys just wondering iam wanting to rebuild my rb25 just wondering if this will work and what will need to be done to the block.

i want to use rb26 crank to stroke it

then do i need to use 26 pistons and rods or can i use 25 ones

thanks for any help

iam wanting to run a to4z turbo

i was think of using jun internals

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/154689-rb2526/
Share on other sites

Whats your budget dude?

If you use the RB26 crank, rods i think the RB25 pistons.

Someone will confirm as a lot have done it.

I just used the RB25 crank/26 rod/25 piston

it is going into a stagea so i want about 300kw

so i can just use a forged 26 crank rods and pistons

what the deck height will the pistons go to high

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/154689-rb2526/#findComment-2877209
Share on other sites

26 rods and crank and pistons will do it. Same deck height and rod length remember.

25 pistons on 26 rod and crank would be sitting proud of the block at TDC

so BD Dave i can just 26 crank and rods and pistons and i wont have to do anything to the block or

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/154689-rb2526/#findComment-2877409
Share on other sites

26 crank has longer stroke, rods are equal (in size, but 26`s are stronger), pistons are different. block height is the same, head cc is almoust th same (25 a bit smaller)

26 or aftermarket rods is a must as 25 rods are weak.

26 crank + 25 pistons will have CR too high or what BHDave said.

The best option is 26 crank+rods+pistons in 25 block. i do the same thing for myself now.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/154689-rb2526/#findComment-2877447
Share on other sites

You have to check that there's sufficient clearance in the block for the longer throw crank and the big ends of the rods, so maybe a bit of machining there (some one will have to confirm as i haven't dummied one up to check). As you'd probably put in new pistons anyway it's just a matter of machining the bore to suit the new pistons (assuming .5 oversize).

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/154689-rb2526/#findComment-2878458
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I don't think the shuffle can damage the turbos. It only happens at low shaft speeds and loads. It's just annoying (to some people - others are tickled by the effect) and it quite possibly reduces spool performance a little bit.
    • Oh dear. The panel beating needs to be done before the filler work. Do you have a photo of the dent before you started? Hard enough to not flex and only hit the high spots?  What do you mean it was just temporary? 
    • Can u check this way it works for power supply?
    • These coils draw 10amps that what i read online
    • I appreciate the detailed explanation, think I understand now. I spent the better part of last night reading what I could about shuffle and potential solutions. I had replaced the OEM twin turbo pipe with an alternate Y pipe that is separated further away from the turbo. The current one is from HKS and I had a previous pipe that was separated even further away, both have shuffle. I had heard that a divider can be welded in to the OEM pipe to remove turbulence, and figure that aftermarket pipes that are more separated would achieve the same thing. From what I read, most people with -10 turbos get shuffle due to their size, though it's a bit less common with -5s on a standard RB26. I think Nismoid mentioned somewhere it's because OEM recirculation piping is common in Australia with -5 cars. It seems that the recommendation tends to vary between a few options, which I've ordered in what I think is most feasible for me:  1. Retune the MAP or boost controller to try to eliminate shuffle 2. Install OEM recirculation piping 3. Something called a 'balance pipe' welded onto the exhaust manifolds. I don't know if kits for this are available, seems like pure fabrication work 4. simply go single turbo My current layout is as follows: Garrett 2860 -5s HKS Racing Suction intake MAF delete pipes HKS racing chamber intake piping hard intercooler piping,  ARC intercooler HKS SSQV BOV and pipe Haltech 2500 elite ECU and boost solenoid/controller HPI dump pipes OEM exhaust manifolds HKS VCAM step 1 and supporting head modifications Built 2.6 bottom end All OEM recirculation piping was removed, relevant areas sealed off I'll keep an eye out for any alternative solutions but can get started with this.  Only other question is, does shuffle harm the turbo (or anything else)? It seems like some people say your turbo shafts will explode because of the opposing forces after a while and others say they just live with it and adjust their pedal foot accordingly. 
×
×
  • Create New...