Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Originally posted by PranK

For those interested, I had a wheel alignment and the camber was fine (apparently) but i had about 4mm toe-in which they fixed, so apparently its all good now.. lets just see how quickly i rip through my Pirrellis.

A bad toe alignment will kill your tyres 10 times quicker than high camber. Same thing happened to me, the camber even looked ok but because of front end lowering, the toe was pushed in too far (also about 4mm) and this is what killed my front tyres. My tyres had nearly full tread on the outside edge, but on the inside edge was through the steel belts before I noticed! :eek:

Hard lesson learned - whenever raising or lowering your car (or buying one that you suspect has been raised or lowered), get a wheel alignment done asap!

Well for a cheap and quick solution, when i had this problem, i was told just to swap the tyres around ie: flip em so the bolder parts come to the outside vice versa. Just out of interest do standard rims also bold out the inside of tyres?, as i have 18's?? and do the width of the tyres affect the degree in which it gets bold?

Thanks

Originally posted by GET53T-GTR33

Well for a cheap and quick solution, when i had this problem, i was told just to swap the tyres around ie: flip em so the bolder parts come to the outside vice versa. Just out of interest do standard rims also bold out the inside of tyres?, as i have 18's?? and do the width of the tyres affect the degree in which it gets bold?

Thanks

that would be the best cheap solution... if u dont want to purchase a rear camber kit. tyres on standard rims won't got bald as bad, on the inside of the tyres as wider rims/tyres would, (if u car is lowered).. they will but not as bad. the width of the tyres definitely affect the degree in which it would get bald.

I have this exact problem as well, I noticed my rears were down to the belts in about 6 months after purchase.

My 32 is lowered quite a bit on std rims, and it chewed them out really quick.

I was told to get all new suss @ around $2,000 (RIM ME).

So I will just do the swap over tyres from side to side until I want to pay for the real fix, I have been told that to swap over 2 rears from rim to rim is about $10...cheap as!

My tyre guy told me that it was all due to the extensive lowering.

Gilty, I was also told that I would need complete new suspension, cost $2500 minimum. I then asked my mechanic and he recommended someone else who got straight to the point and said he would only need to extend the adjustment points to enable the required reel in. Cost $600.00. Get a second opinion dude!. Anyone with a camber wear problem only needs to get these adjusters extended....that's what the camber kit does. Dont let the dodgy brothers rip you off with work that is not needed.

cheers Ozzy

The whiteline camber kit for the front of my 33 cost me $156ish I think, and about 2hrs of my time. 1.5 hrs for the first one and then half an hour for the next once I knew how to do it. Followed by a wheel alighnment of course. The rear is about the same only easier to fit. Not a big expense when compared to tires, and if you plan to do a bit a track work you can dial in a bit of camber on the Friday and get it corrected on the Monday after. Thats my plan anyway!

hmm , im going with ozzy , on this one , brand new potenzas s03

car lowered , 17 / 235 / 45 front , rear 17 / 255 /40 , so rotation was out of the question, so i phoned all the specialists over here , there is no camber adjustment for r33 gts, apart fron drilling new holes and welding plates on was going 2 cost about £100 , so i take it the specialist , nothing whong with it they say ( -1.5 degrees ) is fine , the rears where, how ever not tracking right, so all squared up now , and tyres seem ok , so far.

little tip tho , if u disconect your battery , 2 do a ecu reset , make sure the steering is pointing dead ahead , ( hicas sensor thing )

my 2 pence worth .

  • 11 months later...

Prank - when you got your toe in adjusted (all this time ago) what did you get it adjusted to? did you need an aftermarket to adjust it? or can it be adjusted with the stock GTR setup?

Anyone know what stock GTR castor and camber can be set to without an aftermarket kit?

Wow, this is an old thread. As far as I am aware there is no adjustment for caster or camber for the front standard. What you have got is what you have got. There is a small amount of adjustment for camber at the rear, though it is not enough. Camber on my car was crazy when I lowered it, definately needed the camber kits for the rear and I got them for the front too.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even with the piston at TDC there was room for it to drop, but I don't think it can drop fully into the cylinder, the problem you have is that you need something pushing against the valve to hold it up so you have enough room to put the new stem seal on and the spring etc.  I used compressed air only because putting rope in the cylinder seemed a bit risky to me, I know people have done it countless times before like this. Overall it's a pain in the ass job. Honestly you'd probably be better off taking the head off because the risk of dropping something in the engine and the finicky-ness of it all is very stressful. If you are going to attempt it though i 10000% recommend a 36050 valve spring/keeper tool. I had both the traditional lever type and after doing 1 cylinder it was absolute pain to get those valve keepers in place, even with 2 people. That 36050 is amazing, you do have to push hard to get them in place but it works perfectly almost every time. Back to my actual issue I think my engine is just tired and old and the rings have gone bad. The comp numbers (cold, no oil) were: Cyl 1 -129psi Cyl 2 - 133psi Cyl 3 - 138psi Cyl 4 - 137psi Cyl 5 - 157psi Cyl 6 - 142psi   Cylinder 5 and 6 having the most carbon on them.
    • Who did you have do the installation? I actually know someone who is VERY familiar with the AVS gear. The main point of contact though would be your installer.   Where are you based in NZ?
    • Look, realistically, those are some fairly chunky connectors and wires so it is a reasonably fair bet that that loom was involved in the redirection of the fuel pump and/or ECU/ignition power for the immobiliser. It's also fair to be that the new immobiliser is essentially the same thing as the old one, and so it probably needs the same stuff done to make it do what it has to do. Given that you are talking about a car that no-one else here is familiar with (I mean your exact car) and an alarm that I've never heard of before and so probably not many others are familiar with, and that some wire monkey has been messing with it out of our sight, it seems reasonable that the wire monkey should be fixing this.
    • Wheel alignment immediately. Not "when I get around to it". And further to what Duncan said - you cannot just put camber arms on and shorten them. You will introduce bump steer far in excess of what the car had with stock arms. You need adjustable tension arms and they need to be shortened also. The simplest approach is to shorten them the same % as the stock ones. This will not be correct or optimal, but it will be better than any other guess. The correct way to set the lengths of both arms is to use a properly built/set up bump steer gauge and trial and error the adjustments until you hit the camber you need and want and have minimum bump steer in the range of motion that the wheel is expected to travel. And what Duncan said about toe is also very true. And you cannot change the camber arm without also affecting toe. So when you have adjustable arms on the back of a Skyline, the car either needs to go to a talented wheel aligner (not your local tyre shop dropout), or you need to be able to do this stuff yourself at home. Guess which approach I have taken? I have built my own gear for camber, toe and bump steer measurement and I do all this on the flattest bit of concrete I have, with some shims under the tyres on one side to level the car.
    • Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
×
×
  • Create New...