Jump to content
SAU Community

Whos Got A Highflow (r32's)?

r32woohoo

By r32woohoo,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

r32woohoo Rising Star

r32woohoo

Posted
Posted

Hey guys, just got an RB25 ball bearing highflow put on my RB20

just wondering how many of you guys have them and how do they go?

like how laggy are yours? Wheres your power range? and how much boost are you running?

Atm ive got mine on 12psi n i dont see it till ~3500-4000rpm but after that it goes pretty well

i havent gotten it tuned yet coz im still looking for some engine management.

its heaps different from the standard turbo since i used to see 12psi by around 3k

i spose a good tune will get it spooling quicker?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/155293-whos-got-a-highflow-r32s/
Share on other sites
barnoon Experienced

barnoon

Posted
Posted

Hey mate I have a hi flow on mine but I have a VG30 rear housing (so it will be laggier then yours), 1st gear I dont really get much boost at all unless I launch the car from about 4 - 5k 2nd gear it comes on strong from about 4500 and really throws you back around 5 - 5500rpm.

It is a LOT laggier then the standard turbo but now that im used to driving it and knowing how to hold my revs etc it doesnt seem so bad at all.

My supporting mods are : Power FC, GTR Injectors, GTR front mount, 3inch turbo back exhaust, and a bosch 040

any other questions you have feel free to ask me and ill try my best to help

PS I made spot on 200rwkw with 17psi

barnoon Experienced

barnoon

Posted
Posted

Its a R32 highflow with a VG30 rear housing, the rear housing is whats causing my lag issues, this turbo would much better be suited to a RB25. Nothing I can do about it now anyway I cant afford to pull it off and change turbos or exhaust housings etc so ive learnt to live with it.

r32woohoo Rising Star

r32woohoo

Posted
  • Author
Posted

atm ive got a 3" split dump/front pipe into a 3" fujitsubo catback and an fmic

i dunno wat kind of management im going to get yet but ive got gtr injectors waiting to go on, gotta get a fuel pump and im looking into some gtr cams to get it spooling earlier.

cant do much about it right now, guess ill just have to live with the lag for a while

Interloper Veteran

Interloper

Posted
Posted
Throw an Rb26 Powerfc in to it.

Any half decent workshop knows how easy it is to get it working with the GTST.

Forget the GTR cam's idea UNLESS you are going to have them reground by LukeVL (Tighe cams).

is it rb26? i thought that rb25 PFC was the go for the rb20 without resorting to APengineering ones :D

CEF11E Veteran

CEF11E

Posted
Posted

r32woohoo

I have the same turbo as you and on the RB20det. full boost 19psi is about 4100. boost starts building at around 3000 i am running GTR injectors and pump big fmic, 3" turboback and metalcat.

the car is making 240rwkw and is good to drive once you get used to the lag.

I tuned the stock ECU and it runs perfect 12:1 AFR's

If you want I can burn you a copy of my tune and just modify it to suit your injectors and afm.

pm me if you are interested

Dale FZ1 Veteran

Dale FZ1

Posted
Posted
Hey guys, just got an RB25 ball bearing highflow put on my RB20

just wondering how many of you guys have them and how do they go?

like how laggy are yours? Wheres your power range? and how much boost are you running?

Atm ive got mine on 12psi n i dont see it till ~3500-4000rpm but after that it goes pretty well

i havent gotten it tuned yet coz im still looking for some engine management.

its heaps different from the standard turbo since i used to see 12psi by around 3k

i spose a good tune will get it spooling quicker?

Exactly what sort of high flow is it? ie. who did it, and what core has gone into it? Using RB25 housings won't be the real issue on lag - the size + trim of impellers will though.

If it's a Garrett core into Nissan/Hitachi housings then there will be ID tag numbers visible. They tell the story on what spec impellers you have. If you can find them, post 'em up.

Interloper Veteran

Interloper

Posted
Posted
Both can be used.

Rb26 pfc's are still easy to get where as the rb25's are not. :laugh:

Oh, i wasn't aware that rb25 pfc are getting hard to get. I wonder why?

and to stay on topic: I used to have a R34 Rb25 highflow. all i can say is that HKS GTRS is x10 better...but then i had a pretty average highflow :laugh:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • RP1421
      S15 Spec R

      By RP1421 · Posted

      As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • perry_r33
      R34 GTR Vspec Garage Sale - All must go!

      By perry_r33 · Posted

      Pm sent 
    • Robot
      Skyline v36 350GT sedan hunting on idle

      By Robot · Posted

      Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • GabsReDeal
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By GabsReDeal · Posted

      After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...