Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

a stock rb25 will handle about 350-380hp safely, any more and you will start to lose a ringland or two. :)

depends how you drive it too..

i know of one in WA making ~400rwhp, but its not driven very hard, its barely driven at all.

whereas ive seen other rb25's let go at 330rwhp..

hell, mine died at 300hp, but thats another story..

  • Replies 122
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

well, right now horribly

when im done and dial in the spring rates to help with body roll in addition to the correct rear sway bar when someone figures out what car to use it from since its obviously not a GTR rear sway (200 dollar lesson)

i think it will handle well once i get everything done.

perhaps import a Whiteline rear swaybar from Sydneykid or Whiteline direct?

very very high quality piece of kit

Im using the whiteline front and rear adjuystable swaybars, whiteline bushes and pineapple rings, Bilstein shocks with height-lowering circlips with standard stagea springs.

very comfy and very very grippy. great suspn package and can be lowered by a fair bit. mine sits a tad high but thats my choice (2metres tall) due to picky police etc.

im going to see what i can do about whiteline from the US and have it shipped here. shouldnt be too much

But as an update

trying to research which rear toe rods are the same. If i had a copy of FAST i could do it myself.

I ordered 8000k dual beam HIDs shoudl be here next week

Bought some puddle lights

bought two 12s and an amp for a temporary setup until i fiberglass my setup and order my real equipment

got an alignmet today, its horribley still toe out in the rear, but since its been adjusted camber wise and as much toe as possible, i have almost 2 inches of clearance between shock and wheel. no more rubbing issues i see, but i ned to roll the rear fenders a tad more.

the kit never got ordered by my "friend" so im debating if i want to order it through someone else, or buy more go fast and handle fast parts.

i have yet to decide

OK

ordered DMAX s14 rear toe arms

THe prosport gauges came in today

the K LIGHT 8000K HIDS came in as well

im still waiting on an AEM UEGO

FPR

coilpack

and a dash pod

your HIDs are wayyy to blue. your going to get a ticket as soon as an off base cop sees them.

  • 2 weeks later...

OK

biggg update

bougth a manual swap

Got my greddy oil, flywheel bolts, and pilot bushing in

tranny will be here tomorrow

Garson, headrest pillows, mirror, trim accents, and soem other stuff.

bought NEW Work Emotion XD9 18x9 +20 all around

AEM Uego came in

Prosport gauges came in

FPR came in

HKS twin plate is here

lol

not cheap..... and you'll be parting with it soon enough ?

sad :happy:

what did you do with those 3 spoke wheels? man they look HORN

(Keep the dish, have as much of it as you want, not my style whatsoever, but BEJEEEBUS I love those 3 spoke rims!!)

i sodl em to a friend for 400 US.

im not sellign it anymore, now that i found this stupid 5 speed.

"stupid"...hmmmm

...i take it the manual install is not all wedding cake and honeymoon ??? :happy:

Edited by captinsane

OK

you can drift an automatic Stagea with the front shaft taken out

its crappy becuase its like an open diff or something, but it happens

I make an entire o2 housing back exhaust

i need to redo the part that goes under the subframe becuase i ran out of time and used a prebent section from an R32 exhaust...so ill do that next week or something

im still waiting on my tranny to get here

its boredome

im waiting ot get my new turbo in

once that happens i can order all my pipe for intercooler pipes and exhaust

i want to order it all at once to save on shipping

i found a place for 5.00 a foot for mild steel pipes

will be using a flowmaster muffler with two lone tips out the back

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...