Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

sup

forgive the stupid question/noobness. but do rwc joints usually pick on such things?

i went today to about 7 places and they all gave me the same farkin answer "come by tomorrow or wednesday"

anyway, at one place the guy just took a very quick look at the car and spotted these 3 unroadworthy things.

going tomorrow to a...umm...a..."special" rwc place :P:) and get this over with but just curious...

bit tight don't you think?

dirty headlight

dscf2119tn6.jpg

don't know if you can see it but the very thin line under the p-plate. bottom left corner of the p-plate (dirt)

dscf2120zk5.jpg

dirt blinker

dscf2122uw9.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/155989-do-these-look-un-roadworthy-to-you/
Share on other sites

as long as they work i dont see anything wrong.. If a windscreen is chipped or cracked its un roadworthy or moisture in headlights/tail lights

they all work. the line on the windscreen is just dirt that doesn't wanna come off too easily. whatever that is on the headlight, it's inside but it's just as good as the other one when light is actually turned on...

Those headlights are pretty bad and I have seen various EL Falcons, etc, fail roadworthy in similar or worse condition. As previously posted, try to use cutters and buff the headlights, but remove them off the car first and take care not to burn the plastic.

Windscreen can simply be polished off, by a professional glass polisher.

Tail light is tricky as you have a moisture issue, thus have a build up of dirt/grime inside the light assembly.

Think yourself lucky. Many years ago, to get a roadworthy, you HAD TO replace the windscreen. Without any form of measuring equipment, they always deemed that a (used) windscreen did not meet the standard for light transmission.

yeah i guess it's not all too bad but remember this was just a very quick look it wasn't an actual inspection.

i went this morning to a different place, didn't notice these little things but came up with this list:

l/h outer e/v boot split

r/h outer e/v boot split

radius arm bushes

he said it would cost $275 to replace these with new ones. does this sound right? already wasted $100 on the inspection.

still cheaper if i was to get a "special" rwc :kiss:

Edited by R-SPEC

what the hell is an EV boot.. a CV boot?

try ringing Chris @ Centreline for a 2nd quote 94692914. They're just off Mahoneys Rd and won't rip you off.

PS $100 is a ripoff.. I hope that was for 2 x $50 inspections at different places. Don't forget that if you take it back to the same place within the 30days you do not have to pay another inspection/RW fee.

how does that work? did they have to fix something or put in whiteline bushes? I think from memory their alignments are $90 for 4 wheel.

Edit: There you go, Michael said a camber kit is about $300 or thereabouts with an alignment.

Also it was probably a Whiteline kit, and Centreline usually charge less than if you buy direct from Whiteline.

You can have a look at one of Sydneykids threads to compare prices for the kits.

well being that I wasn't there and don't know the full circumstances of the problem, I can only suggest you look at the receipt and give Chris a call if you don't understand what was done to the car and what you were paying for. Chris has always justified what he has done or what needs to be done to our cars and the price/quote even without being asked and to the point of him giving me back the broken parts without asking for them.

To me it sounds like something else was obviously fixed/replaced and Justin isn't clear on what he was paying for.

hehe

nah dezz was with me at the time cause he got some work done on his car earlier that day.

aparantly... the camber on both wheels on the passenger side magicaly changed cause i had a big side on accident.. evan though theres no damage on my car... or on the wheels.. anyways

he goes "its going to take 2-3 hours to fix and cost a few $100"

and 30 minutes later the camber had the correct settings again.. and i was down $300

he evan said to dezz "your friend must of had a big accident"..

my theory is... 2 ppl installed all the suspension stuff originaly.. 1 on each side...

the guy who did it on the passenger side didnt do the camber properly or something...

what the hell is an EV boot.. a CV boot?

try ringing Chris @ Centreline for a 2nd quote 94692914. They're just off Mahoneys Rd and won't rip you off.

PS $100 is a ripoff.. I hope that was for 2 x $50 inspections at different places. Don't forget that if you take it back to the same place within the 30days you do not have to pay another inspection/RW fee.

yeah i guess it's not all too bad but remember this was just a very quick look it wasn't an actual inspection.

i went this morning to a different place, didn't notice these little things but came up with this list:

l/h outer e/v boot split

r/h outer e/v boot split

radius arm bushes

he said it would cost $275 to replace these with new ones. does this sound right? already wasted $100 on the inspection.

still cheaper if i was to get a "special" rwc :ninja:

:rofl:

well being that I wasn't there and don't know the full circumstances of the problem, I can only suggest you look at the receipt and give Chris a call if you don't understand what was done to the car and what you were paying for. Chris has always justified what he has done or what needs to be done to our cars and the price/quote even without being asked and to the point of him giving me back the broken parts without asking for them.

To me it sounds like something else was obviously fixed/replaced and Justin isn't clear on what he was paying for.

Agreed.......

Sorry Justin, i still find your story hard to beleive. I've been to Centreline, many times for different things, Chris is currently sorting out a set of coil-overs for my car, and i have had nothing but top class work at good prices.

It's strange how almost every person that works on your car f**ks it up or rips you off :) ; even though many others have never had issues using the same business.

If you still have concerns/issues, (and you obiously do) why not approach Chris and ask for clarification on what was done in those 30mins :huh:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • If as it's stalling, the fuel pressure rises, it's saying there's less vacuum in the intake manifold. This is pretty typical of an engine that is slowing down.   While typically is agree it sounds fuel related, it really sounds fuel/air mixture related. Since the whole system has been refurbished, including injectors, pump, etc, it's likely we've altered how well the system is delivering fuel. If someone before you has messed with the IACV because it needed fiddling with as the fuel system was dieing out, we need to readjust it back. Getting things back to factory spec everywhere, is what's going to help the entire system. So if it idles at 400rpm with no IACV, that needs raising. Getting factory air flow back to normal will help us get everything back in spec, and likely help chase down any other issues. Back on IACV, if the base idle (no IACV plugged in) is too far out, it's a lot harder for the ECU to control idle. The IACV duty cycle causes non linear variations in reality. When I've tuned the idle valves in the past, you need to keep it in a relatively narrow window on aftermarket ecus to stop them doing wild dances. It also means if your base idle is too low, the valve needs to open too much, and then the smallest % change ends up being a huge variation.
    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
×
×
  • Create New...