Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Was speaking to a tuner last week regarding my car, and he suggested i remove the FMIC and replace it with a pipe straight from the turbo to the throttle body and have a water or methanol sprayer installed just before the throttle body that sprays in vapour to cool the air.

He said the actual device (sprayer) costs less than $50 to install and its far more efficient than a FMIC that has a pressure drop and is heated by the engine

Anybody tried this sort of setup at all?

To me it made sence sxcept for 1 thing, wouldn't spraying vapour into the air mean that the water will get inside ur engine and screw it up? He said that the water inside ur engine would be harmless, but im not sure about this.

  • Replies 55
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

No...it doesnt screw it up as it atomises as it enters the intake into the plenum. it cools the intake charge and the fuel also, drops the temps a fair whack so you can add more timing and boost without any dramas. Search for The Mafia + Boost Cooler for info on the setup he tried and alot of others also.

We use it on our race car with great success. Its water and methanol, i wouldnt take the intercooler away, leave it but add the injection on top, intercooler still does a descent job.

However, like anything it needs to be tuned.

I run water methanol injection.

ok here are a few tipes -

1. Find another tuner. THis guy has no idea.

2. A Decent Watermethanol kits is $800. There is no way you could get a kit for $50. What, a washer bottle pump and a few $2 hoses? SOunds like dead engine to me.

3. I run water methanol injection AND a Large FMIC. I spray the water methanol through the intercooler for more effect.

http://www.full-throttle.com.au/Engine/Boost%20Cooler.htm

it might be effective, even more effective on its own.. i can't answer that

but what i think is you've got to think practically here..

with a FMIC you bolt it up and walk away. every time you drive its always there doing its thing regardless of rpm or engine load

with a water/methanol injection, it has to be tuned to only come on at certain rpm/load. PLUS, you have to re-fill it all the time.

for me, practicallity and proven effectiveness of hte FMIC makes it the winner every day of the week

  • 3 weeks later...

http://www.snowperformance.net/products.php?p_cat=262

Buy direct and it may save you a few $$.

Thats if you can. :P

R33_racer, how do you go about tuning the water meth?

I've been reading a little and it appears you setup the afr's to 12.5:1, turn the water/meth inj. on and set that up to drop the afr by half a point. Then start pushing the ignition in to it.

Is that how yours is tuned?

Anyone know of kits around the $400 mark, I've only seen them for $600 and over. Seems a bit over priced for what they supply.

If you buy a cheap half assed kit, you will get a cheap half assed result.

$850 for a kit is not overpriced - Considering you get a Shureflow pump (worth over $300) wiring, 3 nozzles (these are top of the range nozzles) and a variable controller with inteligence built in. They creat a nice linear curve of pressure so that you aren't simply turning the pump on full at some pump making a dead spot visible.

They start at 0% pressure and work their way up to 100% depending on how youve adjusted it. Saves water and methanol too.

These kits also have a output for an addon called saftey injection. THis is hooked up to a solinoid, and is plumbed in around your boost controller so that if you run out of water, instead of your motor going bang, it opens your wastegate and runs minimum boost until you resolve the issue. It can also output to a haltek input which changes to less agressive maps...

Trust me, if you buy a $400 kit, you'll regret not spending that bit more.

Links to the kits?

Don't be lazy and read the thread?

Edited by The Mafia
Yeah, I've seen that site, it'll probably end up being the same price once you get it to your door step though.

Hmmmm wonder if you can use nitro fuel from rc cars in water injection...

you can use something similar that they sell. Not sure how bad of an effect it has on the motor though

Mafia... What do you think about buying from the US as it does appear cheaper?

The kits are the same brand etc. But do they contain the same gear?

They are a fraction cheaper, but they won't sell them to you because they don't like to undercut their australian dealers. I've tried it.

Trust me, best option is to grab one of Full throttle performance. Best $850 I ever spent. Oh, and you neer ever have to use octane booster again, and that saves quite a bit of money over time. I remember when I was buying drum after drum of toluene, that alone would have paid for a WM kit that would have been so much better.

Hmmmm wonder if you can use nitro fuel from rc cars in water injection...

Serious question Brett?

The concept of using water injection involves adding the fine mist to a hot intake charge, and the water absorbs the heat energy to convert to a gas (steam), thereby cooling the intake charge. More dense intake charge then allows tuning to make the power. Obviously there are benefits that adding a certain % methanol to the mix brings, but note people do not use 100% methanol. Water will accept/mix the alcohol but only to a certain extent.

I'm aware of some of the properties of nitromethane, but who in their right mind would try using that in a water injection setup? The risk of fire amongst other things is just a little high, and I'd be dubious how stable that commercial mixture is - ie. how fast would you have to use it once opened?

cheers

Dale

Edited by Dale FZ1
http://www.snowperformance.net/products.php?p_cat=262

R33_racer, how do you go about tuning the water meth?

I've been reading a little and it appears you setup the afr's to 12.5:1, turn the water/meth inj. on and set that up to drop the afr by half a point. Then start pushing the ignition in to it.

Cubes I think you'd find the AFR would become leaner due to the increased density of the cooler intake charge. Therefore you'd want to add fuel.

The slower burn rate should allow more advance to be wound in as you say.

According to the boost cooler forum the blokes there state it makes the afr read richer.

http://www.snowperformance.net/forum/viewtopic.php?t=569

You will want to set up your A/F ratio to around 12:1 without the methanol injection and stock timing.

Once that is set you enable the injection and A/F should richen up by 1/2 point for 50/50 mix. Then start to increase timing 2-3 deg at a time until there is no change in HP.

and..

http://www.snowperformance.net/forum/viewtopic.php?t=731

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...