Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey, i have been tossing up which gauge to buy, cosmetics is not an issue, so i just want to get the best performing gauge possible for a reasonable budget.

i have looked at autometer and the following options are:

mechanical

electric - short sweep

electric - full sweep

veiw here: http://www.autometer.com/cat_gaugeseries.aspx

my question is, what kind of accuracy differences are there in the gauges? i figure the electric ones are easier to install, and i know the full-sweep is the most accurate out of all of them, but if there is minimal difference in acuracy between the mechanical and short-sweep electrical and the only difference is ease of installation and cost then the mech might be a good idea.

also what is the value for all of these as i need to know whats a good buy. does $300 for a 66mm Oil pressure, 52mm Water temp, 52mm Boost/Vaccum all short-sweep electrical and sport-comp, and a DIN holder sound?

cheers

Edited by nisskid
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/156528-gauge-qs/
Share on other sites

which are terribly innacurate and inconsistent. i remember once i could smell my engine cooking during a fairly spirited hills run, so i backed off not knowing what was going on, about 20seconds lately my water temp gauge shot up to the high reading over about 3 seconds (real handy, lucky i have the nose of a dog lol). not to mention in the morning it will go from stone cold to opertation temperature within 10-20 seconds, even after a few minutes of driving.

then we get to oil pressure, lol, basically i havnt been able to drive my car for a few weeks now as the gauge is f**ked and i cant get a proper reading, and since i have a few problems related to oil pressure at the moment i do not feel confident driving it without a proper reading of oil pressure.

so then we get to the boost gauge, well i think we can all say without doubt that it is a POS and doesnt even read to what most of us boost our cars to anyway. i am about to install a bleed valve along with a new turbo, so i will need acurate readings to set my bleed valve at the right level.

i actually made a mistake, its a oil temp gauge, not a boost gauge included in that $300.

the oil temp isnt as important, but there is still lag between oil temp and water temp so its a good reading to know.

also i saw these, they have stepping motors etc and seem to be relatively cheap, but they are autogauge so im weary.

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/AUTO-GAUGE-52mm-Oil...1QQcmdZViewItem

Edited by nisskid
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/156528-gauge-qs/#findComment-2909193
Share on other sites

the stock gauges are idiot dials, they give you a basic indication but are slow to react and hide changes from you (eg water temp gauge shows halfway no matter if it's a cold winter morning or hot summer day).

bear in mind that mechanical gauges are sometimes a defect item - you cannot run a mechanical oil pressure gauge inside the cabin because a leak will spray hot oil around at high pressure which is dangerous. mechanical boost gauge is fine IMO, worst that's going to do is hiss at you.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/156528-gauge-qs/#findComment-2912304
Share on other sites

Please consider...

Don't buy crap gauges, as well as looking tacky, they aren't reliable or accurate.

The gauges will be your link to monitoring the running condition of your engine.

The autogauge boost gauge that I had started off fine, then went south, eventually checked against a mechanical test gauge and found it was ~5psi out.

Using a mechanical apexi el gauge and happy.

The difference between mechanical and electrical isn't that big so just get what you want. Nothing says that the electrical is going to be any better than the mechanical. If anything I'd trust the other way.

Running greddy electrical ex.temp and oil.temp gauges and very happy with those as well, just wouldn't want to have to pay for them again...

James.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/156528-gauge-qs/#findComment-2913656
Share on other sites

^^yeh, i would only consider a mechanical boost gauge as i dont want hot oil coming into the cabin, but i still need to know whether i should be looking at full sweep or short sweep electric ones.

in theory they should be similar accuracy, but a full sweep gauge makes it easier to visually identify smaller changes.

i'd go with what looks better, myself. either way, a quality aftermarket gauge that reacts quickly is better than the stock dials.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/156528-gauge-qs/#findComment-2913670
Share on other sites

  • 5 months later...

I have 3 autometer phantomn guages.

mechanical oil temp

mechanical water temp

electrical afr

the temp ones are both great, but the afr one jumps around so much i never really look at it

happy camper tho. They look great also

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/156528-gauge-qs/#findComment-3284824
Share on other sites

Autometer aren't that accurate. If you do a Google search on Autometer gauges you'll find heaps of ppl saying how crap they are. I had an Autometer Sportcomp mechanical boost gauge which gave me low readings and also never sat on zero when the car was turned off.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/156528-gauge-qs/#findComment-3284908
Share on other sites

I'm only aiming at a 250 rwkw daily driver, so they don't need to be perfect... They are easily accurate enough for my needs. And yes they are in cabin :thumbsup:

Edited by joeyjoejoejuniorshabadoo
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/156528-gauge-qs/#findComment-3284964
Share on other sites

As far as I know any mechanicel gauge is illegal as mentioned but they don't really bother with boost. Oil/Fuel/Water on the other hand is a dangerous one.

Has anyone successfully installed a Autometer oil pressure short-sweep electric into a rb20det r32 with the fttings they supply? Also where is the oil pressure sensor and what is the procedure to fit the autometer sensor/sendor unit into position.

Edited by Kane_R32
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/156528-gauge-qs/#findComment-3285998
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • What does it look like with highway driving? And yes, I had a similar thought as Duncan. It looks quite similar in my Stagea and I have made myself accept it as normal. Might have to look into it some day  
    • While I was waiting for the new parts to come in for the charge pipe and radiator I decided to do some turbo modification. The drive pressure (exhaust backpressure) was a lot higher that I thought it should be. For 32lbs of boost drive was 55lbs. The turbine housing is a 1.10AR and my turbo builder has suggested to go to a 1.25AR. To test if a larger AR would do anything to reduce drive pressure AND not spend any money I decided to hog out the divider in my current housing. I removed it from the inlet and the whole way through the housing.  After reassembly and testing it doesn't look like this modification did anything for reducing drive pressure or requiring more fuel (making more power). Oh well, it was worth a shot. We'll get some data at the track if it makes it past the 60ft. I also machined a $7 shift knob off Amazon to fit my Stillway shifter since I didn't like the Stillway shift knob. Next on the list was the radiator replacement and fabrication of a new intercooler tube that had no silicon coupler. No pictures of this - I was short on time each night after work to get this done and didn't stop to take pictures.  Next was to get the clutch disks out and replaced. Previously when installing the dogbox I had ordered a set of the same sintered iron disks I had been running because I switched to the 26-spline input shaft. I thought it was odd that they didn't have any markings or brand name on them like all my old disks had but installed them anyway. At the track I could not get the clutch to lock up using my normal strategies. After two track nights I reached out to the clutch manufacturer and ask their thoughts. They said they had to switch the material out because they were having trouble getting the original material and that this new material would not take to being slipped very well.  So out with the first set of 26-spline disks and in with the correct material 26-spline disks. While I had the trans out I added an inspection/service hole. I've wanted one of these for a while. Now I can have a look at things and change the front cover shimming when needed (clutch wear). I hustled and got the clutch change done in a few hours on a Saturday. Hopped in the car and drove home. On the way home I did a 1-3 pull. When shifting from 2nd to 3rd the core plug in the back of the cylinder head popped out and dumped all the coolant. Thankfully I was only 30 seconds from home and coasted it there. Datalog showed nothing unusual and 2.5psi of coolant pressure. That plug has been in there since 1992 but I guess it worked its way out. Pulled the trans AGAIN and replaced the plug, JB welded it in, and made a brace. Also deleted the head drain I had added in during the bearing issue fiasco.  I am currently changing my boost control plumbing to make it cleaner. After that is done I'll make another attempt at getting past the 60.
    • Are you 100% sure this isn't tune related?
    • 140-150 across the board. At this point hoping the grounding harness fixes it. My grounds are all tied to the chassis and none to the battery. For SR and KA that’s never been a problem for me but had a few other guys here and Reddit who told me RB really like a very solid ground setup tied to the battery so going to try that next, I’m stumped if that doesn’t do it. Never had a car have spark and fuel and not fire off before. Only thing I can think is the spark is intermittent/weak because of grounds nothing else really makes sense at this point 
    • I am having close to the same issue. Can you help me with what wire you grounded to get your pump to trigger?
×
×
  • Create New...