Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Not sure on that one but everwhere i took it they hadn't seen the pro S housing flange here, so had to get it made up, not sure on purchasing a dump, you could always try out the hks site give them an email and see how you go

  • 3 weeks later...

If you have a genuine dump pipe with the machined surface you don't need a gasket.

I installed a 2835proS kit (they come with no gasket) on a mates 25 and there were no leaks at the join.

The braided lines on the 2835 were the same as the 2530 that was installed prior so theres a good chance your existing lines will be fine.

If you have a genuine dump pipe with the machined surface you don't need a gasket.

I installed a 2835proS kit (they come with no gasket) on a mates 25 and there were no leaks at the join.

The braided lines on the 2835 were the same as the 2530 that was installed prior so theres a good chance your existing lines will be fine.

I don't have a genuine dump pipe, will be making a custom Stainless one, would I still need a gasket?

So you had to get the flange made up? It's not readily available?

HKS exhaust housings are a different 'custom' shape for the internal gated turbos.... you need to get a flange laser cut, or buy the HKS dump pipe with the turbo kit.

  • 5 weeks later...

I learnt a few things from this thread so thought Id give back some results

GT3037ProS Specifications

Power Output: 480PS

COMPRESSOR:

-Wheel: 56 Trim - 57.0 Inducer / 76.2 Major

- Inlet Housing: 100

- Outlet Housing: 50

- A/R: 0.60

TURBINE:

- Wheel: 84 Trim - 60.0 Major / 55.0 Exducer

- Inlet Housing: T3

- External Housing: External GT-Pro outlet; 0.87 A/R

Wastegate: Internal 1.2kg/cm2

Yes it fits without spacer plate

You do have to play arround with the turbine and compressor cover to make it fit

and a slight modification to the actuator mounts

My previous 2535 oil/water lines fitted up with no problems

I guess garrett cores use same fittings

I had a custom flange made up and a custom split dump pipe,

Was told that you do not need a gasket, its a metal on metal connection

this is probably the hardest and most expensive part

Mainly due to the odd shape of the flange and the orientation of the turbo

The intake is 100mm so I had to find a 100-75mm silicone reducer which was a challenge in itself

the result on RB30 is below 435rwHp@21Psi

post-7539-1178019022.jpg

Awesome work Luke. About time too. lol ;)

What other mods? Still on the stock exh housing? Plenum? Any idea on the rpm relevance to the graph?

Yeh, still stock exhaust manifold and plenum

other mods explain on this thread

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=83883

I'll try to see if I can get RPM graph as well as boost

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah and hence my ghetto way of slamming the brakes, get the ABS to cycle, rebleed seems to be a sensible workaround.
    • Hey! Happy to help. Nothing inherently wrong with the adapter, it's more so with Brett Collins himself. He gave me a lot of incorrect information when I was in contact with him and was extremely rude when I challenged him. He stated I could not use any aftermarket twin plate clutches except for his own, not to use the dush shield, bla bla bla and it was all BS.  Collins stated to cut roughly 14mm's off the housing, I took off 15mm to make room for the dust shield. I would confirm with whatever adapter manufacturer you're using. 
    • There's plenty of OEM steering arms that are bolted on. Not in the same fashion/orientation as that one, to be sure, but still. Examples of what I'm thinking of would use holes like the ones that have the downward facing studs on the GTR uprights (down the bottom end, under the driveshaft opening, near the lower balljoint) and bolt a steering arm on using only 2 bolts that would be somewhat similarly in shear as these you're complainig about. I reckon old Holdens did that, and I've never seen a broken one of those.
    • Let's be honest, most of the people designing parts like the above, aren't engineers. Sometimes they come from disciplines that gives them more qualitative feel for design than quantitive, however, plenty of them have just picked up a license to Fusion and started making things. And that's the honest part about the majority of these guys making parts like that, they don't have huge R&D teams and heaps of time or experience working out the numbers on it. Shit, most smaller teams that do have real engineers still roll with "yeah, it should be okay, and does the job, let's make them and just see"...   The smaller guys like KiwiCNC, aren't the likes of Bosch etc with proper engineering procedures, and oversights, and sign off. As such, it's why they can produce a product to market a lot quicker, but it always comes back to, question it all.   I'm still not a fan of that bolt on piece. Why not just machine it all in one go? With the right design it's possible. The only reason I can see is if they want different heights/length for the tie rod to bolt to. And if they have the cncs themselves,they can easily offer that exact feature, and just machine it all in one go. 
    • The roof is wrapped
×
×
  • Create New...