Jump to content
SAU Community

Need Help Rb25det Problem!

l0WRB

By l0WRB,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

l0WRB Mentor

l0WRB

Posted
Posted (edited)

hey guys well cut a long story short just wondering if anyone has had the same problem as me or could lead me in the right direction as to wot im looking 4.

cooler

exhaust/dump

slide stage3 hiflow

stock ecu

walbro pump

2 days ago i was heading home brought the car on boost in 2nd think it spiked to 16ish psi

once i had pulled up at home the car suonded like it was miss firing on idle(which it was after gettin out of the car) now the motor has a fair bit of blow by..if i pull catch can hoses off the rocker cover the after a bit of a floggin the car is fairly smoking/breathing,catch can is vented to atmosphere! ive done a compression test and results are

cyc1 145

cyc2 148

cyc3 100

cyc4 150

cyc5 145

cyc6 147

but yeh ive changed the plugs and no change in the miss fire(car doesnt miss fire,still comes on boost hard thru the rev range) but does NOT sound healthy down low/idle... i was thinkin maybe head gasket? but there is no oil in water or water in oil so yeah. also usually every 2-3weeks im emptying my catch can with a good 100ml+ of oil in it...basically this coming friday(2morrow) we were going 2 pull motor out,rip the head off and check everything out. if anyone has had similar experiences could they shed some light or maybe someone who has an idea what i could be lookin 4 in the bottom end that could be shagged.

thanx

Justin

Edited by l0WRB
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/157493-need-help-rb25det-problem/
Share on other sites
l0WRB Mentor

l0WRB

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

thanx guys well out come the pistons then and check them all over! oh joy this weekend is gona be fun (NOT) haha :P the link ecu and fuel reg just arrived today, now my motor is f*ked :P there goes my tune money:|

Edited by l0WRB
The Mafia Grand Master

The Mafia

Posted
Posted

get a set of forged pistons, and there is a user "roguepi" on ebay that sells good rods for RB25, RB26, and RB30.

Get a set, some big end bearings (ACL) and a new head gasket. There will be a few other things you need and I am sure the rest of SAU will help.

l0WRB Mentor

l0WRB

Posted
  • Author
Posted

im kinda on a budget at the moment,not really interested in forged pistons and rods and all that other kind of stuff, it is my daily driver and im trying to find the cheapest way out of this..has anyone got contacts for supplier of rings/bearings/pistons etc if i need any of these parts, genuine nissan will charge arm and a leg. do i really need forged pistons and shot peen rods for 300rwhp? as a daily driver on 14psi?

tmc_2 Rising Star

tmc_2

Posted
Posted
im kinda on a budget at the moment,not really interested in forged pistons and rods and all that other kind of stuff, it is my daily driver and im trying to find the cheapest way out of this..has anyone got contacts for supplier of rings/bearings/pistons etc if i need any of these parts, genuine nissan will charge arm and a leg. do i really need forged pistons and shot peen rods for 300rwhp? as a daily driver on 14psi?

If u jsut got forged pistons they shouldnt be much more expensive than stock? foged pistons can be had for under 1k i think.

Hope you sort it out easy enough mate

R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted

You wont get out of this cheaply... its going to be 4 figures even if you do it yourself by the time you buy new bearings, machine it all up etc etc.

And if your doing it yourself your gonna be without a car for quite a while.

Guess thats lesson learnt the hard way.

Should never be running with a stock ECU/Hi-flow and increased boost. Its always going to end sadly

l0WRB Mentor

l0WRB

Posted
  • Author
Posted
You wont get out of this cheaply... its going to be 4 figures even if you do it yourself by the time you buy new bearings, machine it all up etc etc.

And if your doing it yourself your gonna be without a car for quite a while.

Guess thats lesson learnt the hard way.

Should never be running with a stock ECU/Hi-flow and increased boost. Its always going to end sadly

yeah if i can get out of it for 1k im a happy man and yes im assuming it is going to take my car off the road for atleast 2-4weeks :teehee: but luckily work at a car yard and i can borrow a drive around car hehe im actually lookin forward 2 pullin motor out atleast now i can clean my engine bay and paint stuff that i couldnt cause i didnt want to take it off the road for more then 24hrs haha this time car comes back on the road with link ecu and a tune :thumbsup:

l0WRB Mentor

l0WRB

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Just a quick update

started on it yesterday afternoon,by around 9 last nite we had the motor out and the manifolds off and the head off, this is where the fun begins lol..from what we could see it all looked fine 2 me(i dont know shit really bout cars haha) all cyclinders still have hooning marks still in them,but anyway piston 3 looked to have a few burn marks at the top of the cyclinder so cant wait to check out the piston once we pull them out..1 quick question if anyone has done this before..when the piston is at its full stroke sitting at the top of the block is it normal for about 1mm clearance movement side 2 side?

just a few pics below guys, sorry bout quality was on my phone

post-29137-1172269918.jpg

post-29137-1172269928.jpg

post-29137-1172269938.jpg

post-29137-1172269948.jpg

post-29137-1172269957.jpg

post-29137-1172269971.jpg

post-29137-1172269980.jpg

post-29137-1172270024.jpg

post-29137-1172270032.jpg

extreme turbo manifolds Contributor

extreme turbo manifolds

Posted
Posted
Just a quick update

started on it yesterday afternoon,by around 9 last nite we had the motor out and the manifolds off and the head off, this is where the fun begins lol..from what we could see it all looked fine 2 me(i dont know shit really bout cars haha) all cyclinders still have hooning marks still in them,but anyway piston 3 looked to have a few burn marks at the top of the cyclinder so cant wait to check out the piston once we pull them out..1 quick question if anyone has done this before..when the piston is at its full stroke sitting at the top of the block is it normal for about 1mm clearance movement side 2 side?

just a few pics below guys, sorry bout quality was on my phone

yes you wil have movement from side to side.

remember metal expands when hot so clearances are setup to be right at running temp.

thats why flogging your engine when its cold wears it out fast cause the pistons are slapping around in the bore and results in cylinder wear and piston skirt wear

paulr33 Grand Master

paulr33

Posted
Posted

i am surprised you are seeing this much damage

the stock ecu would have dropped to low octane map the moment it saw detontion, so that could have been well before it went bang

it also would have been activating its rich and retard cut proteciton

long before you flew past 16psi pressure.

i expect there is something missing from the picture

check the usual suspects

fuel rail / reg

fuel pump

something has made it fail in a big way, so make sure you double check all of these before rebuilding and trashing it agian. make sure its tuned properly and the afrs are checked to be safe. get an ecu with knock support so you can see detonation.

l0WRB Mentor

l0WRB

Posted
  • Author
Posted
i am surprised you are seeing this much damage

the stock ecu would have dropped to low octane map the moment it saw detontion, so that could have been well before it went bang

it also would have been activating its rich and retard cut proteciton

long before you flew past 16psi pressure.

i expect there is something missing from the picture

check the usual suspects

fuel rail / reg

fuel pump

something has made it fail in a big way, so make sure you double check all of these before rebuilding and trashing it agian. make sure its tuned properly and the afrs are checked to be safe. get an ecu with knock support so you can see detonation.

well i have bought a LINK ecu through aaron and im pretty sure thats got a knock support on it, but ur right once car is back together only place it goes from there is pushed onto the dyno 4 its tune!

just lucky it didnt mark bore! still looks new, but still going to give it a hone..does anyone know any good online suppliers for pistons/rings etc?

BHDave Grand Master

BHDave

Posted
Posted

ouch. 4 of them!

Didn't see that coming.

regarding the rebuild; spend the money on rods and pistons now and maybe valve springs and head studs if you intend to run upwards of 20psi in the future.

For supply, talk to CRD or Just Jap who are forum sonsors, http://www.hioctaneracing.com.au/ do online sales.

Proengines on the forums has done rebuilds for a few members

l0WRB Mentor

l0WRB

Posted
  • Author
Posted
ouch. 4 of them!

Didn't see that coming.

regarding the rebuild; spend the money on rods and pistons now and maybe valve springs and head studs if you intend to run upwards of 20psi in the future.

For supply, talk to CRD or Just Jap who are forum sonsors, http://www.hioctaneracing.com.au/ do online sales.

Proengines on the forums has done rebuilds for a few members

well ive decided once motor is back together im only going to run around 15psi tuned, head studs cross my mind but yeh i dont really have the money to be UPGRADING as i should say..will standard rods be fine for 300rwhp and 15psi?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      WGNC34 - floor mats

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I dunno about that as a blanket statement. Pitwork is Nissan's "Nissan genuine" thing, and for stuff like timing belts, I have found them to be excellent. Of course, for things like oil filters, you always use proper trusted brands anyway, not whatever the OEM has taken to using.
    • MBS206
      R34 Skyline climate control unit transistor

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Ahhhh... If you were putting 12V to the led in there, that's likely made it very unhappy. Chances are how you put power, was 12V across an LED that's meant to only have about 20mA through it at peak, and a forward voltage of about 1.8 to 2.4 volts. That circuit is likely only a 3V3 circuit, and will have a resistor in series with the led too. That's my guesstimate on that light, without having touched one.
    • Murray_Calavera
      Tein Circuit Master- rebuild worth it?

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      Another vote for installing them and see how you go.  I mean, you already own them, why would you not fit them? 
    • Duncan
      NC MX5

      By Duncan · Posted

      I have had too many of those over the years, my cars have a toolkit or at minimum a cheapy multi tool thing because its too easy to be snookered by some stupid plastic clip that stops you checking the battery terminal isn't loose.
    • Duncan
      WGNC34 - floor mats

      By Duncan · Posted

      Basically, if there is a part# on the nissan catalogue, it is a genuine part. There is a thing called "new old stock" which is stuff made years ago but never sold (or landfilled), but it is super hit and miss what you can buy. Other than some expensive Nismo stuff there is nothing new being made that suits these cars. The only time to be a little careful is (mostly in the US I think, but maybe Japan too), Nissan started rebranding some cheap crap maintenance parts like oil filters as "Pitworks"; stay away from them, if you are buying cheap just buy whatever the local car parts shop carries The three part numbers have an explanation on Amayama: 0V005 is auto, base style 0V015 is manual 0V505 is auto, hectic momo branded ones, maximum F&F points there!
×
×
  • Create New...