Jump to content
SAU Community

R32 GT-R or R33 GTS-T  

40 members have voted

You do not have permission to vote in this poll, or see the poll results. Please sign in or register to vote in this poll.

Recommended Posts

Get the 33 if its the same price. It'll always be cheaper to buy a car already done than it is to do it yourself.

Then there's the argument "but you don't know what the car been doing".

Get it checked out to see if all is in good order.

You'll rather the torque of the rb25 anyway over the rb20.

If i had my chance again I'd buy a car thats already been done up.

I find it hard to afford to mods for my car.

But thats just me.

Get the 33 if its the same price. It'll always be cheaper to buy a car already done than it is to do it yourself.

Then there's the argument "but you don't know what the car been doing".

Get it checked out to see if all is in good order.

You'll rather the torque of the rb25 anyway over the rb20.

If i had my chance again I'd buy a car thats already been done up.

I find it hard to afford to mods for my car.

But thats just me.

he was speaking of a 32 gtr, not a 32 gts-t

If it were me, I'd probably go the gts-t, mainly because I wouldn't want to fork out the money on repairing a broken rb26 should the need arise or maintaining it.

Get the 33 if its the same price. It'll always be cheaper to buy a car already done than it is to do it yourself.

Then there's the argument "but you don't know what the car been doing".

Get it checked out to see if all is in good order.

You'll rather the torque of the rb25 anyway over the rb20.

If i had my chance again I'd buy a car thats already been done up.

I find it hard to afford to mods for my car.

But thats just me.

Hang on

this is R32 GTR Vs R33 GTST - that's a no brainer for me (GTR EVERY TIME)

but then - I own an R32 GTR

Agree - always cheeper to buy than modify yourself :(

What for those?

Track/street etc etc?

If i was going track and wanted a FUN car i would take the R33 GTS-t with 220-240rwkw and some good tyres.

Would be excellent fun to drive i reckon.

That said a GTR would also be a good drive but personal for me i light the car to feel light.

Having driven a 34 gtr (going back a while now), it just feels really heavy where my HR31 feels much more nimble and i get enjoyment there.

A GTS-t track car is going to be hella cheap to run even with relatively basic mods.

A GTR will cost a lot more to keep in good working order

This is an each to thier own topic. Thats just my thoughts

R33 GTS-t all the way for me.

Mainly why: Easier to get to hook up on the track in corners, and on a rolling run, capable of going past a GTR with equal power.

If it was for dragging, then a GTR, but I'm a corners person, and I just find that the GTR doesn't handle how I want in the bends.

Edit: Please note, I've only ran passenger in a GTR, but I love my GTS-t to bits (And yes, I've said before I wouldn't swap it for a GTR!)

Edited by MBS206

No, he was waiting for Brisby or someone like me to stand up and be counted.

BUT the orig spec was R32 GTR & R33 GTSt

NO RB20 to be seen, except by those that dont read well. :(

GO the RB20!!

GO... go... go....

GO YOU BARSTARD!!

Damn you have to be quick in here!

Has anyone seen that eastern video that was posted up not long ago.

It goes like this.

GTR IS THE BEST,FROM THE EAST TO THE WEST.

Yeah go gtr...then spend like $13000 (The price of a R33Gtst).

Got money go gtr. :laugh:

No money...gtst. :happy:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
    • Can I suggest you try EBC directly again and link them to as many competitor catalogues as you can to show their listing is incorrect, eg https://dba.com.au/product/front-4000-series-hd-brake-rotor-dba42304/ If you have access to an R33 GTST VIN and your VIN, you could also use a Nissan Parts lookup like Amayama to show them the part number is different between 33 GTST and 34 GTT which may get their attention
    • So i got reply from EBC and they just this site where you can clearly see those 296mm fronts on R34 GTT. I send them photos and "quotes" that 296mm are not for 34 GTT and they are too small. But it will be very hard to return them cuz nobody here knows 100% and they just copy those EBC catalogue :-D https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/automotive/nissan/skyline-r34
    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
×
×
  • Create New...