Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

I will be upgrading my turbo shortly and would like some info on removing the stock one.

a) Do i need a hoist?

b) Can i get at everything under the car?

c) Do i need to remove pod,AFM,intake hose to turbo?

d) What lines to the turbo need removing?

e) Its going to matched with a VG30 rear housing do i need to keep all the fittings?

f) How long will it take roughly?

g) Will any oil or water leak out of the engine once the turbo is removed?

h) Is putting the upgraded one in just a reverse procedure or do i need to modify (add new lines)?

P.S If anyone wants to save me the grief.PM me and we can work something out.

CHEERS

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/157667-removing-stock-r33-turbo/
Share on other sites

Hi all,

I will be upgrading my turbo shortly and would like some info on removing the stock one.

a) Do i need a hoist?

b) Can i get at everything under the car?

c) Do i need to remove pod,AFM,intake hose to turbo?

d) What lines to the turbo need removing?

e) Its going to matched with a VG30 rear housing do i need to keep all the fittings?

f) How long will it take roughly?

g) Will any oil or water leak out of the engine once the turbo is removed?

h) Is putting the upgraded one in just a reverse procedure or do i need to modify (add new lines)?

P.S If anyone wants to save me the grief.PM me and we can work something out.

CHEERS

1: u dont need a hoist 2: u can get everything from uinder the car 3: yes 4: 2 water lines and oil lines (feed and drain) 5: pretty sure u can with the hiflow 6: about 5 hours 7: water will piss out lol 8 : if u hiflow probably not but its good to drill the oil feed line with a 5 mill drill bit (remember hiflow only)

good luck mate lemme know how u go

Edited by R33GOD

a) Do i need a hoist? NO

b) Can i get at everything under the car? YES

c) Do i need to remove pod,AFM,intake hose to turbo? YES

d) What lines to the turbo need removing? (Water lines in and out on each side of turbo, Oil feed and oil drain)

e) Its going to matched with a VG30 rear housing do i need to keep all the fittings? (Yes keep all fittings and get new gaskets from nissan)

f) How long will it take roughly? (A LONG TIME, it took me ages because i had to keep buying tools/gaskets/bolts, BE careful when undoing tight bolts spray with WD40 first and wait then attempt so you don't snap anything, a breaker bar is also handy)

g) Will any oil or water leak out of the engine once the turbo is removed? (Best to drain all the coolant out first as when you disconnect the water lines coolant goes everywhere i was swimming in it lol, same with engine oil)

h) Is putting the upgraded one in just a reverse procedure or do i need to modify (add new lines)? (Depends on which highflow you get, GCG straight on SLIDE needs mods to lines)

This site will be useful for you (still a Rb25det)

http://www.project32.net/tutorials.php

http://www.livesockets.com/quoc/rb/10_mani...moval/index.htm (was working when i did mine but not now ) :( maybe check through livesockets.com

a) Do i need a hoist? NO

b) Can i get at everything under the car? YES

c) Do i need to remove pod,AFM,intake hose to turbo? YES

d) What lines to the turbo need removing? (Water lines in and out on each side of turbo, Oil feed and oil drain)

e) Its going to matched with a VG30 rear housing do i need to keep all the fittings? (Yes keep all fittings and get new gaskets from nissan)

f) How long will it take roughly? (A LONG TIME, it took me ages because i had to keep buying tools/gaskets/bolts, BE careful when undoing tight bolts spray with WD40 first and wait then attempt so you don't snap anything, a breaker bar is also handy)

g) Will any oil or water leak out of the engine once the turbo is removed? (Best to drain all the coolant out first as when you disconnect the water lines coolant goes everywhere i was swimming in it lol, same with engine oil)

h) Is putting the upgraded one in just a reverse procedure or do i need to modify (add new lines)? (Depends on which highflow you get, GCG straight on SLIDE needs mods to lines)

This site will be useful for you (still a Rb25det)

http://www.project32.net/tutorials.php

http://www.livesockets.com/quoc/rb/10_mani...moval/index.htm (was working when i did mine but not now ) :laugh: maybe check through livesockets.com

loool it happened to me when i took the water lines off... i got soaked but it was soo funny :(

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...157088&st=0

this is a thread on some poor nutter tring to do similar on a GTR. they are much harder. but take a leaf out of his book!

be prepared for the worst! the GTS-t turbo is not that bad to work on. I have a small plastic tool box full of old turbo bolts and brakets and fittings. They come in very handy right when you think you don't need them. my advise is to keep every last bit of it. U may not like the new set up, and want to return it to where u started. u may loose something or worse, break it! keep the extra stuff!

I took all the intake hoses and stuff out of the way, the cross over pipe and BOV. rolled the car out of the shed and drained the coolant from the radiator (there is an screw in the bottom). pushed the car back inside and and removed the dump pipe. unbolted turbo and carefully pulled the turbo off. make sure u don't lose the brass washers off the banjo bolts on the turbo. swap the parts u want to swap, and do the hole process backwards..

Before unbolting the turbine housing, use a yellow paint marker and dot the housing position. it will help u when u are putting it all back together.

ohh, be very careful when tightening up the turbine housing to cartridge. make sure that the wheels can turn freely. i've seen guys do these up cock eyed, and the turbo doesn't spin!

any other thoughts :(

I'll add, you need a 24mm spanner and socket for the water lines.

Oil banjos is 17mm spanner/socket.

Drain absolutely as muhc of the water as you can. I got 4.5L out of the radiator, and another 5L came out of the turbo water line.

Try and undo the bolt slowly, and catch most of the water, otherwise you'll be lying in a pool of coolant. While it does taste nice, I don't advice drinking it.

Jesus tap dancing christ!

This is going to be a BIG involved task.

I dont think i will be able to have my car off the road for that amout of time.

I work 5 12hr shifts and need the car on the road.I guess i have to do some serious organising to limit the time spent.

Not to mention the turbo place needing the turbo for a day or 3.

Thank you all for your excellent advise.

honstly, if it's your only car, I wouldn't do it myself. The thing is, with these performance cars, if you like to mod them, it's guaranteed that you'll need to hae it off the road.

e.g. you might break bolts, or break something, and it'll take you time to go buy stuff etc.

My car's been off the road for 6 weeks waiting for different stuff.

I wouldn't advise you to do it all in a day either. I'd spend one day taking it out then the next putting it back in.

Also, how mechanically able are you? Do you get pissed off easily? do you have the right tools?

If you want, i can tell you a plcae that'll do it for about $350 including coolant and oil

honstly, if it's your only car, I wouldn't do it myself. The thing is, with these performance cars, if you like to mod them, it's guaranteed that you'll need to hae it off the road.

e.g. you might break bolts, or break something, and it'll take you time to go buy stuff etc.

My car's been off the road for 6 weeks waiting for different stuff.

I wouldn't advise you to do it all in a day either. I'd spend one day taking it out then the next putting it back in.

Also, how mechanically able are you? Do you get pissed off easily? do you have the right tools?

If you want, i can tell you a plcae that'll do it for about $350 including coolant and oil

Im listening.

Jesus tap dancing christ!

This is going to be a BIG involved task.

I dont think i will be able to have my car off the road for that amout of time.

I work 5 12hr shifts and need the car on the road.I guess i have to do some serious organising to limit the time spent.

Not to mention the turbo place needing the turbo for a day or 3.

Thank you all for your excellent advise.

your very welcome mate

Jesus tap dancing christ!

This is going to be a BIG involved task.

I dont think i will be able to have my car off the road for that amout of time.

I work 5 12hr shifts and need the car on the road.I guess i have to do some serious organising to limit the time spent.

Not to mention the turbo place needing the turbo for a day or 3.

Thank you all for your excellent advise.

hey mate what plans do u have for your 33?

I am about to do thesame with my car, dam gaskets and studs.

Overall if you ahve two people, the job is EASY. just takes time and patiance. The Nissan manual has a good DIY on how everything has to be performent and in what order.

I can send a coppy of relavant pages, just PM me.

Overall cost i sabout $200 for all the gasktes and so forth allong with some new studs. Possible extra for coolant.

If you start at 8 in the morning, you should have it done by the afternnon no probs.

UNLESS, you break some studs, and can't get them out, need some helicoils, or have a warped manifold.

I comed propered and have broght everyhting possible to ensure i can do it in one day, as i too need my car on the road ASAP.

if you're going for 280 rwkw, a highflow won't do it. in which case, it'll need to be something else.

If it's a kit, you're alright. if it's not a kit, you'll need fab work, so you can't do it yoursledf

ive seen these VG highflows pull 280rwkw at 19psi.Car had tomei cams and all supporting mods.

ive seen these VG highflows pull 280rwkw at 19psi.Car had tomei cams and all supporting mods.

280 rwk is pushing it for reliability on a hiflow id say 260 is possible with reliability.. im chasing a comfy 240 on a lower psi

Edited by R33GOD

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I did end up getting it sorted, as GTSBoy said, there was a corroded connection and wire that needed to be replaced. I ended up taking out the light assembly, giving everything a good clean and re-soldered the old joints, and it came out good.
    • Wow, thanks for your help guys 🙏. I really appreciate it. Thanks @Rezz, if i fail finding any new or used, full or partial set of original Stage carpets i will come back to you for sure 😉 Explenation is right there, i just missed it 🤦‍♂️. Thanks for pointing out. @soviet_merlin in the meantime, I received a reply from nengun, and i quote: "Thanks for your message and interest in Nengun. KG4900 is for the full set of floor mats, while KG4911 is only the Driver's Floor Mat. FR, RH means Front Right Hand Side. All the Full Set options are now discontinued. However, the Driver's Floor Mat options are still available according to the latest information available to us. We do not know what the differences would be, but if you only want the one mat, we can certainly see what we can find out for you". Interesting. It seems they still have some "new old stock" that Duncan mentioned 🤔. I wonder if they can provide any photos......And i also just realized that amayama have G4900 sets. I'm tempted too. 
    • Any update on this one? did you manage to get it fixed?    i'm having the same issue with my r34 and i believe its to do with the smart entry (keyless) control module but cant be sure without forking out to get a replacement  
    • So this being my first contribution to the SAU forums, I'd like to present and show how I had to solve probably one of the most annoying fixes on any car I've owned: replacing a speedometer (or "speedo") sensor on my newly acquired Series 1 Stagea 260RS Autech Version. I'm simply documenting how I went about to fix this issue, and as I understand it is relatively rare to happen to this generation of cars, it is a gigantic PITA so I hope this helps serve as reference to anyone else who may encounter this issue. NOTE: Although I say this is meant for the 260RS, because the gearbox/drivetrain is shared with the R33 GTR with the 5-speed manual, the application should be exactly the same. Background So after driving my new-to-me Stagea for about 1500km, one night while driving home the speedometer and odometer suddenly stopped working. No clunking noise, no indication something was broken, the speedometer would just stop reading anything and the odometer stopped going up. This is a huge worry for me, because my car is relatively low mileage (only 45k km when purchased) so although I plan to own the car for a long time, a mismatched odometer reading would be hugely detrimental to resale should the day come to sell the car. Thankfully this only occurred a mile or two from home so it wasn't extremely significant. Also, the OCD part of me would be extremely irked if the numbers that showed on my dash doesn't match the actual ageing of the car. Diagnosing I had been in communication with the well renown GTR shop in the USA, U.P.garage up near University Point in Washington state. After some back and forth they said it could be one of two things: 1) The speedometer sensor that goes into the transfer case is broken 2) The actual cluster has a component that went kaput. They said this is common in older Nissan gauge clusters and that would indicate a rebuild is necessary. As I tried to figure out if it was problem #1, I resolved problem #2 by sending my cluster over to Relentless Motorsports in Dallas, TX, whom is local to me and does cluster and ECU rebuilds. He is a one man operation who meticulously replaces every chip, resistor, capacitor, and electronic component on the PCB's on a wide variety of classic and modern cars. His specialty is Lexus and Toyota, but he came highly recommended by Erik of U.P.garage since he does the rebuilds for them on GTR clusters.  For those that don't know, on R32 and R33 GTR gearboxes, the speedometer sensor is mounted in the transfer case and is purely an analog mini "generator" (opposite of an alternator essentially). Based on the speed the sensor spins it generates an AC sine wave voltage up to 5V, and sends that via two wires up to the cluster which then interprets it via the speedometer dial. The signal does NOT go to the ECU first, the wiring goes to the cluster first then the ECU after (or so I'm told).  Problems/Roadblocks I first removed the part from the car on the underside of the transfer case (drain your transfer case fluid/ATF first, guess who found out that the hard way?), and noted the transfer case fluid was EXTREMELY black, most likely never changed on my car. When attempting to turn the gears it felt extremely gritty, as if something was binding the shaft from rotating properly. I got absolutely no voltage reading out of the sensor no matter how fast I turned the shaft. After having to reflow the solder on my AFM sensors based on another SAU guide here, I attempted to disassemble the silicone seal on the back of the sensor to see what happened inside the sensor; turns out, it basically disintegrated itself. Wonderful. Not only had the electrical components destroyed themselves, the magnetic portion on what I thought was on the shaft also chipped and was broken. Solution So solution: find a spare part right? Wrong. Nissan has long discontinued the proper sensor part number 32702-21U19, and it is no longer obtainable either through Nissan NSA or Nissan Japan. I was SOL without proper speed or mileage readings unless I figured out a way to replace this sensor. After tons of Googling and searching on SAU, I found that there IS however a sensor that looks almost exactly like the R33/260RS one: a sensor meant for the R33/R34 GTT and GTS-T with the 5 speed manual. The part number was 25010-21U00, and the body, plug, and shaft all looked exactly the same. The gear was different at the end, but knowing the sensor's gear is held on with a circlip, I figured I could just order the part and swap the gears. Cue me ordering a new part from JustJap down in Kirrawee, NSW, then waiting almost 3 weeks for shipping and customs clearing. The part finally arrives and what did I find? The freaking shaft lengths don't match. $&%* I discussed with Erik how to proceed, and figuring that I basically destroyed the sensor trying to get the shaft out of the damaged sensor from my car. we deemed it too dangerous to try and attempt to swap shafts to the correct length. I had to find a local CNC machinist to help me cut and notch down the shaft. After tons of frantic calling on a Friday afternoon, I managed to get hold of someone and he said he'd be able to do it over half a week. I sent him photos and had him take measurements to match not only the correct length and notch fitment, but also a groove to machine out to hold the retentive circlip. And the end result? *chef's kiss* Perfect. Since I didn't have pliers with me when I picked up the items, I tested the old gear and circlip on. Perfect fit. After that it was simply swapping out the plug bracket to the new sensor, mount it on the transfer case, refill with ATF/Nissan Matic Fluid D, then test out function. Thankfully with the rebuilt cluster and the new sensor, both the speedometer and odometer and now working properly!   And there you have it. About 5-6 weeks of headaches wrapped up in a 15 minute photo essay. As I was told it is rare for sensors of this generation to die so dramatically, but you never know what could go wrong with a 25+ year old car. I HOPE that no one else has to go through this problem like I did, so with my take on a solution I hope it helps others who may encounter this issue in the future. For the TL;DR: 1) Sensor breaks. 2) Find a replacement GTT/GTS-T sensor. 3) Find a CNC machinist to have you cut it down to proper specs. 4) Reinstall then pray to the JDM gods.   Hope this guide/story helps anyone else encountering this problem!
    • So this being my first contribution to the SAU forums, I'd like to present and show how I had to solve probably one of the most annoying fixes on any car I've owned: replacing a speedometer (or "speedo") sensor on my newly acquired Series 1 Stagea 260RS Autech Version. I'm simply documenting how I went about to fix this issue, and as I understand it is relatively rare to happen to this generation of cars, it is a gigantic PITA so I hope this helps serve as reference to anyone else who may encounter this issue. NOTE: Although I say this is meant for the 260RS, because the gearbox/drivetrain is shared with the R33 GTR with the 5-speed manual, the application should be exactly the same. Background So after driving my new-to-me Stagea for about 1500km, one night while driving home the speedometer and odometer suddenly stopped working. No clunking noise, no indication something was broken, the speedometer would just stop reading anything and the odometer stopped going up. This is a huge worry for me, because my car is relatively low mileage (only 45k km when purchased) so although I plan to own the car for a long time, a mismatched odometer reading would be hugely detrimental to resale should the day come to sell the car. Thankfully this only occurred a mile or two from home so it wasn't extremely significant. Also, the OCD part of me would be extremely irked if the numbers that showed on my dash doesn't match the actual ageing of the car. Diagnosing I had been in communication with the well renown GTR shop in the USA, U.P.garage up near University Point in Washington state. After some back and forth they said it could be one of two things: 1) The speedometer sensor that goes into the transfer case is broken 2) The actual cluster has a component that went kaput. They said this is common in older Nissan gauge clusters and that would indicate a rebuild is necessary. As I tried to figure out if it was problem #1, I resolved problem #2 by sending my cluster over to Relentless Motorsports in Dallas, TX, whom is local to me and does cluster and ECU rebuilds. He is a one man operation who meticulously replaces every chip, resistor, capacitor, and electronic component on the PCB's on a wide variety of classic and modern cars. His specialty is Lexus and Toyota, but he came highly recommended by Erik of U.P.garage since he does the rebuilds for them on GTR clusters.  For those that don't know, on R32 and R33 GTR gearboxes, the speedometer sensor is mounted in the transfer case and is purely an analog mini "generator" (opposite of an alternator essentially). Based on the speed the sensor spins it generates an AC sine wave voltage up to 5V, and sends that via two wires up to the cluster which then interprets it via the speedometer dial. The signal does NOT go to the ECU first, the wiring goes to the cluster first then the ECU after (or so I'm told).  Problems/Roadblocks I first removed the part from the car on the underside of the transfer case (drain your transfer case fluid/ATF first, guess who found out that the hard way?), and noted the transfer case fluid was EXTREMELY black, most likely never changed on my car. When attempting to turn the gears it felt extremely gritty, as if shttps://imgur.com/6TQCG3xomething was binding the shaft from rotating properly. After having to reflow the solder on my AFM sensors based on another SAU guide here, I attempted to disassemble the silicone seal on the back of the sensor to see what happened inside the sensor; turns out, it basically disintegrated itself. Wonderful. Not only had the electrical components destroyed themselves, the magnetic portion on what I thought was on the shaft also chipped and was broken. Solution So solution: find a spare part right? Wrong. Nissan has long discontinued the proper sensor part number 32702-21U19, and it is no longer obtainable either through Nissan NSA or Nissan Japan. I was SOL without proper speed or mileage readings unless I figured out a way to replace this sensor. After tons of Googling and searching on SAU, I found that there IS however a sensor that looks almost exactly like the R33/260RS one: a sensor meant for the R33/R34 GTT and GTS-T with the 5 speed manual. The part number was 25010-21U00, and the body, plug, and shaft all looked exactly the same. The gear was different at the end, but knowing the sensor's gear is held on with a circlip, I figured I could just order the part and swap the gears. Cue me ordering a new part from JustJap down in Kirrawee, NSW, then waiting almost 3 weeks for shipping and customs clearing. The part finally arrives and what did I find? The freaking shaft lengths don't match. $&%* I discussed with Erik how to proceed, and figuring that I basically destroyed the sensor trying to get the shaft out of the damaged sensor from my car. we deemed it too dangerous to try and attempt to swap shafts to the correct length. I had to find a local CNC machinist to help me cut and notch down the shaft. After tons of frantic calling on a Friday afternoon, I managed to get hold of someone and he said he'd be able to do it over half a week. I sent him photos and had him take measurements to match not only the correct length and notch fitment, but also a groove to machine out to hold the retentive circlip. And the end result? *chef's kiss* Perfect. Since I didn't have pliers with me when I picked up the items, I tested the old gear and circlip on. Perfect fit. After that it was simply swapping out the plug bracket to the new sensor, mount it on the transfer case, refill with ATF/Nissan Matic Fluid D, then test out function. Thankfully with the rebuilt cluster and the new sensor, both the speedometer and odometer and now working properly!   And there you have it. About 5-6 weeks of headaches wrapped up in a 15 minute photo essay. As I was told it is rare for sensors of this generation to die so dramatically, but you never know what could go wrong with a 25+ year old car. I HOPE that no one else has to go through this problem like I did, so with my take on a solution I hope it helps others who may encounter this issue in the future. For the TL;DR: 1) Sensor breaks. 2) Find a replacement GTT/GTS-T sensor. 3) Find a CNC machinist to have you cut it down to proper specs. 4) Reinstall then pray to the JDM gods.   Hope this guide/story helps anyone else encountering this problem!
×
×
  • Create New...