Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

well my car is making strange noises from mabout 5500-6300 rpm, im hoping this is my intake... I have a nismo speedo in my 32 (260kmph), previous owner sais he has clocked 260kmph using this speedo (yer i kno its probly not accurate) with basic mods, large fmic, hks zorst system, boosted, few other lil things...

  • Replies 75
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Yeh but i got to 11ty billion m/s on the m3 going to see my man friend at the northern polar regions of mars. I do it every day swear to god. Weevil will back me up. I lol'd so hard a 320km/h that is for girls. Maybe this should be moved to wasteland.

Thats true, so vbery true infact.

my fluxcapacitors were maxing out at 11ty% duty cycle and I could not keep up - but on the compuglobalhypermeganet monitor I could see scorps readings of 11ty billion m/s

was quite a sight to see....pitty you couldnt do that GTRGTR as 320km/h on the m5 is nothing - you are weak. when you reach 11ty billion m/s come and talk to us and join the club

ON M5 IN SYDNEY EVERYNIGHT WITHOUT FAIL FROM KING GEORGES ROAD TO HUME HWY 320KPH+ IN MY GTR TO GO SEE MY GF.

MAY BE STUPID MAY BE WRONG BUT I DO IT. ALL THE TIME.

LOTS OF PEOPLE TO BACK UP MY WORD ASWELL.

Horray for you...above post + this stupidity = your future...and ours. Pull your head in.

ON M5 IN SYDNEY EVERYNIGHT WITHOUT FAIL FROM KING GEORGES ROAD TO HUME HWY 320KPH+ IN MY GTR TO GO SEE MY GF.

MAY BE STUPID MAY BE WRONG BUT I DO IT. ALL THE TIME.

LOTS OF PEOPLE TO BACK UP MY WORD ASWELL.

http://www.theage.com.au/articles/2007/02/...1733764512.html

Horray for you...above post + this stupidity = your future...and ours. Pull your head in.

There should be a mandatory IQ test required before people are allowed to drive a Skyline. Let's push all the fwits to drive Civics where they belong.

Wow - I really wouldn't want to do that to the poor Civic owners......

GTRGTR

No, really, we do appreciate it :wacko:

We appreciate the bad name it give us "normal" owners :huh:

Cheers mate!

Hopefully you arent the next person to end up either...

1. in the newspaper

2. dead...and in the newspaper

from speeding at a hekitk 320km

Out of curiosity, what sort of advanced driver training/courses/track days have you done?

...MAY BE STUPID MAY BE WRONG...

Correct x2

no worries guys. i just entered a post on the topic, then u all have to go stupid over it. no probs. if it makes u happy, it makes u happy

Dude i'm not going stupid over it and i'm not happy; i'm offering you some advice and hopefully saving you and the rest of us grief. It seems like once a week I read a thread like" cant believe i got defected for this" or " why do they pick on us" then I read your irresponsible and prejudicial post. I stand by my original post. Good luck with the M5 though

This thread is beyond ridicule its now a farce...and I suppose it was always destined to be.

Thats true, so vbery true infact.

my fluxcapacitors were maxing out at 11ty% duty cycle and I could not keep up - but on the compuglobalhypermeganet monitor I could see scorps readings of 11ty billion m/s

was quite a sight to see....pitty you couldnt do that GTRGTR as 320km/h on the m5 is nothing - you are weak. when you reach 11ty billion m/s come and talk to us and join the club

not any advanced driving course champ but ill advance ur ugly f**ken head straight up ur arse faster then ur 11ty billion m/s bullshit

not any advanced driving course champ but ill advance ur ugly f**ken head straight up ur arse faster then ur 11ty billion m/s bullshit

hahahahahhaha

dude, I just spat my bourbon all over my screen!!!!!!

hahahahahhaha

thats the funniest thing I've heard today!

So when are you going to come to a SAU NSW & meet me and do that?

Sounds like fun!

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...