Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

you might also want to check Japanese Motor Sports in Adelaide..

I think this is the website..maybe... http://www.japanesemotorsport.com.au/partsinstock.htm

I believe they have dump and front pipes to suit..

On a side note.. I think that the DUMP/FRONT pipes are the same for R32 and R33 GTST's..

It is on the UAS site under : Parts and Accessories, Go to search by vehicle and click on Skyline, then go to exhaust systems and scroll down. The NonTurbulence Dump/front pipe in one, is $695 in Mild Steel and $850 HPC coated. BD4s is $750 in Mild steel and $890 for HPC coated.

  • 2 weeks later...

Check this thread out Slayer,

3" Dump/Front Pipes & 3" Hi-Flow CATs

BATMBL

Senior Member

Registered: Jan 2003

Location: Sydney

Car: Skyline GTST Series II

3" Dump/Front Pipes & 3" Hi-Flow CATs

Hey everyone,

This thread has long been available in the SAU forums, but had to be taken off becuase of complaints made by businesses.

Because of these complaints, I cannot post the prices on the thread(since they may appear too low for some businesses liking and i may rob them of their potential customers...lol). If you are interested in buying any of these parts, just PM me.

Many of you know I can supply these parts, and have already purchased them off me before.

Heres a list of what parts I can get for anyone here on these forums: (Pictures of these parts can be emailed to you)

Catco 3" Hi-Flow CAT.(The CAT is stainless steel outside, and ceramic inside. It has flanges welded onto it, and is measured to bolt on to your exhaust. Available for all Skylines, 200SX and GTi-Rs.

R32, R33 Skyline GTS-T 3" Dump/Front pipe. (One side connects to turbo and the other side to the CAT. It is one piece, mandrel bent, has the oxygen sensor mount, and bolts on to where your stock dump/front pipe was. It is available in both mild steel and stainless steel.

Dump/Front pipes also available for the R32 GTR and R33 GTR.

S14 200SX, S15 200SX 3" Dump/Front pipe. (One side connects to turbo and the other side to the CAT. It is one piece, mandrel bent, has the oxygen sensor mount, and bolts on to where your stock dump/front pipe was. It is available in both mild steel and stainless steel.

If you are after any of these quality parts, for the lowest price in Australia, don't post on the thread, just PM me.

Cheers

Last edited by BATMBL on 09-05-2003 at 12:44 AM

Had a twin dump pipe fabricated by Genie the other day - gave up trying to organise HPC coating etc, and supprted the local guys :D

The result is a dump with a seperated wastegate pipe that includes a flange in the face of the dump pipe to reduce airflow crossover, and the wastegate pipe reconnects about 30-40cms down the main dump pipe.

The main dump starts at 2.5 or 2.75" (similiar to the turbo outlet size, an allows sufficient space to fit the adjacent wastegate pipe) and immediately flares out to 3" for the rest of the pipe.

Surprising, heat doesnt appear to be too much of an issue (even after a serious thrash, you can stick you hand between the dump pipe and the aircon lines about 3 inches away and not get burnt) so I think I will perhaps just look at putting some heatshielding material around the more sensitive stuff down there to avoid any future issues.

I had the catback system before to get a feeling of the difference the dump would make, and it gives a LOT more torque overall, and midrange is a lot stronger (top end is still crap as im using a didgey bleed valve and boost has dropped off once I get to 5000+rpm). Sounds good, goes good - happy with the result :D

Conrad

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Don't be ridiculous. "2-3 ugga duggas or one Oof. You have to use Oof on tie rods because you can't get an ugga dugga on there." Is not helping the guy at all.
    • I have done a lot of research before posting here and on gtruk forum. couldn't find anything. I have my gauges all part except the needle itself. the needle has a extremely small hole in the center, but the shaft going to the needle is extremely small and appears to have nothing to index it either. doesn't seem strong enough to simple pry or pull without damaging something. Already tried the old spoon trick on a extra triple meter I have from a gtt, but no luck. the center cap comes off easily but the hole in the meter face plate aren't big enough to get over the needle itself. figured this would be my best place to find someone who might have actually removed theirs. wonder if there is some type of small pin press tool to push the pin in while pulling the needle base off.
    • Ok...its taking me long enough to finally do this.  Feck financial security...heart disease will get me soon enough anyway So welcome to the garage..."Clem" Belsil80 has been running a 370Z in Super TT series. So after entering with him in last years Winton 300 i figured I  need my own car. Seems SAU Vic race cars need to be yellow....{tick} Reckon with enough motor i will be able to make up for the lack of talent and stay ahead of the 370Z... but the LS powered S13 and E36s are a ways up the road Aim is to have a car that doesnt stop or turn but has a bit of shed built motor with jam...maybe some cream  First step is getting this ex drift car log booked I am keeping faithful silver car. As the road-club car gets upgrades the race car wil get the sloppy seconds
    • Assuming that they will come off without damage at all.... i would have thought just pull straight up off the spindle with a something or other than can reach underneath. Have you searched for youtube vids of people doing similar on R34s or any other Nissan from the same vintage? They should be the same technique, in all likelihhood.
    • Keeping in mind that sandblasting is really aggressive on softer metals like cast alloy, and you can do damage that you might regret. For trash wheels, not a problem. For wheels with value/scarcity issues, etc.... perhaps a less aggressive media is a better choice?
×
×
  • Create New...