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Just go 2J, it will have more torque, which will power it better and allow you to find a diff ratio easier to suit the holden diff.

Plus you can spend the money on actually getting it in there and bolt ons and still make good power. RB26 will need to be built up typically.

If you want manual with the 2J could add some extra cost to the job, where as the RB might be a little cheapier in that respect.

Stock 2J, some cams and T88 for the win.

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2JZ no question. any arguments of supra vs skyline always come down to the skyline having 4wd, motor vs motor, the RB26 just cant stand up to the 2JZ, even skyline owners will admit that

oh btw, how exactly do you put a GTR into a VY ute?

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The other night at the drags there was a old VX commodore V8 GEN3(LS1) i believe like the ones the police use to drive around,

it had a GT42 and a built engine it was running easy 10's, but he said he was going through alot of diff's or drives shafts i can't remember.

i'll go the 2JZ over RB for the VY Ute :laugh:

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Personally I would GEN-TT kit the LS1.

2JZ and the RB26 are great, but don't match the low down torque of the LS1.

For the cost of the conversion, I can't see how it would bring better gains compared to spending the money on the LS1.

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This is a quote from sydneykid

As I have mentioned previously there is nothing wrong with 1JZ/JZ's themselves (other than the turbo being on the wrong side), it is the stuff bolts on to the engine that is the problem.

One example, multiple throttle bodies on RB26's, there is nothing even remotely close on JZ's. This makes such a huge difference in throttle response, which for a road car is nice to have and for a circuit car is a MUST.

Second example, gearboxes, the fact is Toyota don't make a decent manual gearbox that bolts to a JZ. They admit it themselves by using Gertrag to supply gearboxes for the Supras. Who cares for a drag car, run an auto.

Third example, no 4wd option. It's all very well for the JZ to make lots of power, but that is pretty damn useless if you can't get it to the ground. Traction is a nice thing for a road car to have and for a circuit car it is a MUST. For a 1/4 mile car, well who cares, just use bigger drag slicks on the rear.

When chosing an engine, sometimes the most important thing is not the engine itself, but how that engine fits into the rest of the package around it. This is why an RB20/25/26/30 will always be a superior choice.

biggrin.gif cheers biggrin.gif

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infact i'm willing to bet the owner of the said ute, will follow suit with most other holden ute owners and prefer a well laid burnout with enough smoke to rid a small town of its cockroach population than a fast circuit time.

*subscribes to future burnout thread feature the video of the ute with a 2j destroying a set of tyres in some well thought out location*

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infact i'm willing to bet the owner of the said ute, will follow suit with most other holden ute owners and prefer a well laid burnout with enough smoke to rid a small town of its cockroach population than a fast circuit time.

*subscribes to future burnout thread feature the video of the ute with a 2j destroying a set of tyres in some well thought out location*

So the goal would be to avoid traction then

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