Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi guys

had this rattle for a while now but now its really getting on my nerves

when in low revs and in any gear, there is a real "fuzzy/buzzy" type of rattle on the passanger front seat side, sounds like its coming from infront of the glove box. At first i thought it was the pod rattleing against the guard but then i padded the pod up and it still happened so i eliminated that out of the factor.

the sound only happens when driving in low revs in any gear and once u pick up some revs, the sound dissapears.

i thought maybe a gasket? sounds like its coming from somewhere around the turbo

has anyone heard of this as a common problem or have any suggestions on what it could be

cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/158082-r33-series-1-engine-rattlesound/
Share on other sites

do u feel it through your pedal? mine vibrates/makes an aweful sound from 2000 to 2500 rpm in 2nd, 3rd and 4th

ive been told its just the clutch out of balance at that sort of rpms so not to worry about it

My car has that same rattle or whatever it is. When it first reared its ugly head i got nervous, but it still does it 3 months on and has been on the dyno for a few hours where it made good power and the tuner didnt comment on it at all....So it cant be that bad i reckon, if it gets annoying just turn the stereo up lol....

maybe its the head shield around the turbo. might have a screw loose and be tapping metal on metal (sorta vibrates on it at low rev). just a thought.. make sure all screws and clamps n stuff are all tightned around that area. if they are, then it probably an iternal thing

was just concerned cause it comes from the same area as where the turbo is located. It sounds like a vibration like something is vibrating against something else.

it wierd cause it goes away after about 1.5-2k revs.

Strange

Yeah I have exactly the same thing, But I'm sure my comes from the gearbox. As I removed the rubber surrounding from the gear stick and it was crystal clear it came from the gearbox. I notice the sound only happens if my motor is laboring or just off it.

mine does the exact same thing. at low revs. i have a twin plate clutch though. theyre tradtionally very noisy things. and its the plates and the disc that sits in the middle thats moving and virbating and making the noise. nothing to be worried about IMO

Make sure the noise isn't coming from the front of your engine....

How many K's has your car done....

Sounds like you may need to replace your cam belt, cam bearings, and seals.....

But yeah, check the black case on front of engine at dizzy

I have the same problem... only loud when engine is cold and sounds like its coming from front of engine (not in the engine) near belt... at low revs aswell.

Sounds like you may need to replace your cam belt, cam bearings, and seals.....

But yeah, check the black case on front of engine at dizzy

sounds like my problem though i wouldnt have a clue...

check the black case on front of engine?

Could you please elaborate? what to look for when im checkin the black case?

Edited by bluey33

done like 110k

its not coming from the front of the engine. it sounds like the sound is coming from infront of the glove box ,engine pay side (not inside the car :happy:) thats why i suspected my POD was rattling against my guard...but it wasnt that

the sound comes and goes fairly quick its only when the car struggles on low revs

dunno what the hell it is, and its not like i can pop the hood and look in when it makes the noise cause it only happens when moving, does happen on idle or when reving the car in N.

  • 1 month later...

Hey Peeps,

I got a rattle coming from the cam belt cover, a new belt was fitted 2 months ago, is only there when the engine is cold, once she has warmed up it goes,

any ideas what this could be??

(its a 1996 R33 S2 GTS-T)

it is booked in for a service in 2 weeks, (car is under complete warrenty untill september for all parts)

Cheers

Dazzler

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi guys, Making some space/cleaning up. A whole heap of random OEM R33 GTR parts and other random bits and bobs. I will update this thread as I go. Parts are located in Moorebank NSW 2170. Pickup preferred but will post at buyers expense. Prices are negotiable. If they don’t sell it will go in the bin. Item 1: BOV return pipe. $40 Item 2: RB26 cam gears. $20 Item 3: R33 GTR torque split, oil temp, boost centre gauge. $100 Item 4: RB26 fuel rail x 2. $20 each Item 5: RB26 Recirc valves. $50 Item 6: OEM upper front arms. $20 Item 7: Royal Purple Max Gear 75w-140 1 quart/946 ml x 5. $50 each or 5 for $200. Item 8: OS Giken 80w-250 diff oil 1 litre. $25 Item 9 Eibach springs. ers-11-140-60-0140. $100 https://www.streetfx.com.au/eib140-60-0060-eibach-ers-140mm-length-x-60mm-id-coil-over-spring?_ga_campaignid=22235933977&_ga_adgroupid=180146800292&_ga_keyword=&_ga_device=m&_ga_target=pla-295238231169&_ga_locint=&_ga_locphy=9071723&_ga_matchtype=&_ga_network=g&_ga_device=m&_ga_placement=&_gcl_id=CjwKCAjwlt7GBhAvEiwAKal0cvkVE_hstv24cDiaICsIk1oznH9zAoJf3By6vR3Tpe7jmByqM6JFHBoCZYAQAvD_BwE&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=22235933977&gbraid=0AAAAADPiTbo1xAuvnjIWWYnezivf-BUSY&gclid=CjwKCAjwlt7GBhAvEiwAKal0cvkVE_hstv24cDiaICsIk1oznH9zAoJf3By6vR3Tpe7jmByqM6JFHBoCZYAQAvD_BwE    
    • That's kind of what I was getting at saying you'd be here soon regarding length etc being able to add additional restriction.  My assumption (possible donkeys of you and mption) is that the length of hose to an oil cooler, and back, isn't going to be that huge of a loss. Typically you're talking about 1.5m of total length. And so far everyone in our world hasn't had issues with oil not being able to get to a cooler and back, it's more been, how the heck do we get the oil out of the head and back down to the bottom? I'd nearly hazard a guess the biggest issue people have with oil cooling and oil supply, is being able to get the heat out at the cooler itself (not enough air flow, too small of a cooler etc) Also, when people mount them wrong and make really awesome air traps so they've dramatically diminished the cooling capacity.
    • I will rebutt this and the preceding point from Dose....but without doing any calcs to demonstrate anything and without knowing that I am right or wrong. But... The flow capacity of a fluid transfer system is not limited by the smallest orifice or section of conduit in that system, unless it is drastically smaller than the rest of the system. OK, I use the word drastically perhaps with too much emphasis, but let's drill down on what I really mean. The flow capacity of the system is the result of the sum of the restrictions of the entire system. So, to make an extreme example, if you have a network with 3" pipe everywhere (and let's say a total length of only a few metres) and that 12mm ID restriction of the oil filter connection being the obvious restriction, then for any given amount of pressure available, the vast majority of all the pressure drop in the system is going to occur in the 12mm restriction. But.... increase the length of the 3" pipeline to, say 1000m, and suddenly the pipe pressure loss will likely add up to either be in the same order of magnitude, possibly even exceeding that of the 12mm restriction. Now the 12mm restriction starts to matter less. Translate this to the actual engine, actual oil cooler hose sizing, etc etc, and perhaps: The pressure loss caused by flowing through the narrow section (being the 12mm oil filter port, and perhaps any internal engine oil flow pathways associated with it) is a certain number. The pressure loss through, say, -12 hoses out to the cooler and back is negligible, but The pressure loss through -10 hoses out to the cooler, at the exact same length as the above, starts to become a decent fraction of the loss through the 12mm stuff at the filter port. Maybe even it starts to exceed it. I could actually do these calcs if I knew 1) how much oil was actually flowing in the line, 2) gave enough of a f**k to do things that I hate doing for work, voluntarily for a hypothetical discussion. Anyway - I reiterate. It's not the narrowest port that necessarily determines how much it can all flow. It is the sum. A long enough length of seemingly fat enough pipe can still cause more loss than a semmingly dominant small bore restriction.
    • To pick up what Dose is putting down. Not a lot of point running a huge hose if the motor is still restricted to the smaller size... It's only capable of flowing so much at that point...   *Waits for GTSBoy to come in and bring in the technicalities of length of pipe, and additional restriction from wall friction etc etc*
    • Hooley Dooley these things have some history! If i sell them they will need a certificate of providence to prove they have been in the hands of verified RB20 royalty! They have been stored in a plastic tub, away from sunlight and moisture. They are in mint condition. And they will stay that way, as i have sprung the money for a set of shockworks coilovers. I'm just working on getting them in at the moment, after rebushing the rear of the car, and while the subframe was out i welded in the GKtech reinforcement bracing as well.  They will get a workout at Ararat King of The Hill in November. I ran 48s on the short course there a few months ago, and i am hoping with new bushes and shocks in the rear i can launch a bit harder. There was a fair bit of axle tramp when i tried too hard off the line. a few of the corners had dips mid way which also made the car feel a bit unsettled, hopefully this will help there too.   
×
×
  • Create New...