Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Guys.

so i have done some searching and haven't come up with much, but then again, my search skills are crap.

I need to replace my manifold gasket, and while the car was off the road, i figured i might get one of these, but i do not know if they are any good.

I only have a stock turbo at the moment, hoping to upgrade later on down the track.

I know stainless steel manifold are usually not too good, as they tend to crack, so i was wondering if anyone has had any experiance with these manifold, also i know it would not give me necessarly more power, but would it help increase responce at all?

Any of is great thanks.

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi...mMakeTrack=true

I wouldn't paint it. It probably won't hold, and it'll just burn and flake off.

Sure, sandblast it, but it'll just rust again in no time.,

Most likely your manifold will have warped and probably won't seal on, so you might have to get the mating surface machined.

Yeah i have a spear manifold i am getting ready, so i will prep it all prior to teh other one comming off. I have some 1500degC paint, it takes 6 coles and needs to be baked between each coat. Has some alluminum stuff in it or something.

i made the mistake of buying one, didnt even fit on (unless i used some sort of a spacer, but whos gona use a spacer?) like every1 else has said, dont buy it, but a brand named manifold

p.s i was lucky i got my money refunded

Have you considered comp coatings? I got mine done(with a whole lot of other stuff, wastegate, ex housing inlet manifold) and it cost $350

Sorry my slow brain........comp coating??? Please explain?? Thanks Adriano

Competition coatings i think is a company that does ceramic coatings for manifolds and exhausts and whatnot. Like HPC and whatever other companies around that do ceramic coatings. You'd only ever do the black (highest temp) coating as the normal silvery one cant handle the heat in a turbocharged system. We had our dump pipe on the race car done in the silver and it just flaked off after a few race meets.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
    • ..this is the current state of that port. I appreciate the info help (and the link to the Earls thing @Duncan). Though going by that it seems like 1/4 then BSP'ing it and using a bush may work. I don't know where I'd be remote mounting the pressure sender... to... exactly. I assume the idea here is that any vibration is taken up by the semiflexible/flexible hose itself instead of it leveraging against the block directly. I want to believe a stronger, steel bush/adapter would work, but I don't know if that is engineeringly sound or just wishful thinking given the stupendous implications of a leak/failure in this spot. What are the real world risks of dissimilar metals here? It's a 6061 Aluminum block, and I'm talking brass or steel or SS adapters/things.
    • And if you have to drill the oil block, then just drill it for 1/4" and tap it BSP and get a 1/8 to 1/4 BSP bush. The Nissan sender will go straight in and the bush will suit the newly tapped hole. And it will be real strong, to boot.
    • No it doesn't. It just needs an ezy-out to pull that broken bit of alloy out of the hole and presto chango - it will be back to being a 1/8" hole tapped NPT. as per @MBS206 recco. That would be for making what you had in alloy, in steel. If you wanted to do just that instead of remote mounting like @Duncan and I have been pushing. A steel fitting would be unbreakable (compared to that tragically skinny little alloy adapter). But remote mounting would almost certainly be 10x better. Small engineering shops abound all over the place. A lathe and 10 minutes of time = 2x six packs.
×
×
  • Create New...